Daniel Zacharczuk

North by Northwest

Thinking it was named after one of my all-time favorite movies, I had to try Swifka’s North by Northwest: raisin-infused Rhum Barbancourt, Krogstad Aquavit, Amaro Meletti, lime, Don’s Mix No. 2 and honey. Swifka later told me the name was chosen “as a sort of loose association nod to Scandinavia. Feels evocative of the flavors in the glass…and [the name] rolls off the tongue.” It’s a nuanced tall drink, with butterscotch notes from the rhum, anise and caraway seed from the aquavit, and something akin to the tangy bite of ginger in the sweet and slightly bitter finish.

Summer Focus

Next up was one of Zacharczuk’s cocktails, the Summer Focus: Pueblo Viejo Añejo Tequila, Cynar, lime, cucumber and meringue. It’s a well-named cocktail, given current weather conditions. With the artichoke liqueur as its backbone, the floral and fruity añejo stands out and the endless summer continues with each sip. The “meringue” is actually the egg white that gives the drink its rich texture.

Black Magic Woman

Then it was time for another Swifka libation, the Black Magic Woman: Redbreast Irish Whiskey, Heering Coffee Liqueur, Amaro Averna, lime and pineapple. A rinse of Connemara Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey gives the cocktail an initial nose of smoky peatiness, but the first sip from the oversize brandy snifter is surprisingly tropical. Zacharczuk noted that you can taste each of the cocktail’s ingredients, though if you didn’t know the components, you’d likely think you’d ordered a Tiki drink. The Black Magic Woman had cast her spell; it’s an excellent drink that I will revisit again this season. All I need is B|K’s fireplace and a smoking jacket.

Crispy beef tongue

The soft-spoken Tokmadjian describes his menu as New American, which he interprets in dishes with influences from around the globe. First up from the Small Eats section: crispy beef tongue with horseradish, dill crème fraiche and radishes. The tongue was indeed crisp, paired nicely with the sharp bite of the radishes and horseradish.

Roasted bone marrow, aka the bone luge

I’ve enjoyed the roasted bone marrow with parsley salad, pickled Fresno chilies and grilled bread numerous times at Bar | Kitchen. But it was at another top downtown bar a couple of days before New Year’s Eve where the leftover bones were put to their greatest use: in a round of bone luges. (For the record, Cynar was poured for me, and it was delicious.)

Beef short rib pot roast

If the sunny blue skies decide to step aside for more appropriate weather, Tokmadjian’s beef short rib pot roast with winter vegetables, parsnip puree and horseradish will be an ideal dish to enjoy. Even if the temps stay warm, the fork-tender meat will still convey the spirit of the season with every bite.

And in case you were wondering, the crack tots are still on the menu.

Bar | Kitchen
O Hotel
819 S. Flower St.
Los Angeles, CA 90017
(213) 623-9904
www.barandkitchenla.com

Glasses of El Betabels await sampling at the Proprietors LLC tasting event.

What do Death & Company and frozen margaritas have in common? More than you would think, as it turns out. Proprietors LLC partners David Kaplan and Alex Day (Death & Co.’s co-founder and former bartender, respectively) have created an exclusive cocktail menu for Rosa Mexicano, the upscale Mexican restaurant chain. The new cocktails are already available at all ten Rosa Mexicano locations, including Rosa Mexicano at L.A. Live, where Proprietors LLC presented a hosted tasting event last week. During the intimate two-hour gathering, Kaplan, Day and Jason Berry (Rosa Mexicano’s VP of Operations) answered questions about the new menu, while Day and Devon Tarby prepared a selection of cocktails to order.

La Sangrita

The tasting began with a welcome glass of one of the new Micheladas, the La Sangrita: Negra Modelo and house sangrita, served over ice with a salted rim. The La Sangrita’s savory, spicy bite matched nicely with the chips, salsa and mountain of fresh guacamole that had been set out for us.

Sangrita and Tobalá: stee chi beu!

My attention drifted to the trio of Del Maguey mezcal bottles displayed at one table; Kaplan noticed my interest and joined me in a Tobalá and sangrita. Though the spicy palate-cleanser is traditionally paired with tequila, alternating sips of sangrita with the rare, “wild mountain” mezcal was a sublime pleasure. The gray, drizzly weather outside suddenly seemed a world away.

When I asked Kaplan what interested him in working with Rosa Mexicano (which features a frozen pomegranate margarita as its signature cocktail), he said that he saw a unique opportunity. Unlike their revamp and current management role at Bar | Kitchen, Proprietors LLC weren’t brought on board to gut the Rosa Mexicano drink list, which already generates plenty of revenue for the chain. Without any pressure for their new drinks to deliver immediate ROI, Kaplan and Day were given total freedom in developing the cocktails that would be incorporated into the existing Rosa Mexicano menu.

Alex Day stirs one of the new Rosa Mexicano cocktails.

As a fan of Death & Co., Berry was already familiar with Proprietors LLC by the time he was introduced to them through a mutual acquaintance. The collaboration with Kaplan and Day took place over a four-month period that included a few face-to-face meetings and plenty of emails. Berry was particularly impressed with the duo’s willingness to listen to suggestions, a breath of fresh air in a restaurant industry where menu critiques are sometimes taken personally rather than constructively. Berry noted that the relationship between Proprietors LLC and Rosa Mexicano won’t end with the debut of the new cocktails. Kaplan and Day will provide ongoing consultation as needed, such as following up with spirits distributors to ensure ingredients for the cocktails are consistently available.

Kaplan and Day were likewise impressed with the Rosa Mexicano staff, who took copious notes and cellphone pics during training. Which brings up a key question: it’s one thing to have Alex Day or Devon Tarby making great cocktails at a media event, but how will the same drinks taste in Hackensack or National Harbor? Without prompting, Berry addressed this point when he said it will be essential for Rosa Mexicano bartenders to carefully follow the Proprietors LLC recipes, since improper measuring or technique will alter a cocktail’s intended flavor and balance.

La Antigüa

It was time for another round, and Tarby made the La Antigüa, a stirred cocktail made with Tanteo cocoa-infused silver tequila, bitters and an orange twist. This riff on an Old Fashioned is dangerously good, the consensus favorite of the tasting. The La Antigüa is perhaps the simplest of the new cocktails, but it’s complex in its balance of agave, sweet chocolate, spicy jalapeño and citrus. Like the Michelada, it paired well with the passed trays of crab cakes and taquitos.

La Mandarina

Next up, Day prepared the La Mandarina, a shaken cocktail made with El Jimador silver tequila, freshly-muddled tangerine, fresh basil, fresh lemon and organic agave. The pulpy, refreshing La Mandarina is reminiscent of a Caipirinha, and like its Brazilian counterpart it will see plenty of action when the weather warms up and al fresco drinking is in full effect.

La Pera Noble

My final drink was another stirred cocktail, the La Pera Noble: Casa Noble Crystal Tequila, bianco vermouth, pear brandy and cinnamon simple syrup. Served up, the Martiniesque La Pera Noble is bright and dry, with hints of pear and cinnamon that offer fruit and sweet notes without being cloying. It was an elegant conclusion to an impressive showcase.

With a sophisticated yet approachable menu of cocktails, David Kaplan and Alex Day have successfully bridged the gap between their craft cocktails and a national restaurant chain. The collaboration between Proprietors LLC and Rosa Mexicano has resulted in a concise list of drinks that should please hardcore cocktail geeks and casual imbibers alike.

Rosa Mexicano at L.A. Live
800 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(213) 746-0001

Following is the list of cocktails that Proprietors LLC have created for Rosa Mexicano.

Cócteles Agitados (Shaken Cocktails)

• La Sandía – Fresh muddled watermelon, rosemary simple syrup, El Jimador silver tequila, fresh lemon
• La Piñela – Silver tequila, pineapple juice, cinnamon simple syrup, fresh lime
• El Mezcalito – Fresh strawberry, Tanteo jalapeño-infused silver tequila, Del Maguey Vida mezcal, fresh lemon, organic agave
• La Mandarina – Fresh muddled tangerine, fresh basil, El Jimador silver tequila, fresh lemon, organic agave
• Flor de Humo – Silver tequila, Del Maguey Vida mezcal, St. Germain, orange marmalade, fresh lime

Cócteles Movidos (Stirred Cocktails)

• La Pera Noble – Casa Noble Organic silver tequila, bianco vermouth, pear brandy, cinnamon simple syrup
• La Antigüa – Tanteo cocoa-infused silver tequila, bitters, orange twist
• Águila Real – Hennessy VS, Kahlua, Licor 43, cream, chocolate mole bitters

Micheladas (Beer Cocktails)

• Chelita – Tecate, fresh lime and spices, served over ice with a salted rim
• El Betabel – Pacifico, beet juice, fresh lime and Cholula, served over ice with a salted rim
• La Sangrita – Negra Modelo, house sangrita, served over ice with a salted rim

It’s been a long time since I’ve done one of these compilations, but it’s not for a lack of exciting things happening in the L.A. cocktail scene. Quite the contrary, in fact; with a slew of bar openings and more on the way, there’s never been a better time to be a cocktail enthusiast in the City of Angels. In recent weeks the amount of coverage has ramped up, which makes it as good a time as any to collect some highlights from the last few months. Here’s hoping it won’t take me a year to post another digest. Cheers!

Last month’s superb Brand X Mixology Issue (Feb. 16, 2011) takes its place alongside Jonathan Gold’s The New Cocktailians (LA Weekly, 2009) and Imbibe Magazine’s A Star is Re-Born (Jul./Aug. 2010) as essential guides to the state of the L.A. cocktail scene.

Among the great reads: a profile of Zahra Bates (Providence); an in-depth look at Harvard & Stone; Q&A’s with Julian Cox (Playa) and Matt Biancaniello (Library Bar); a mixology glossary by Justin Pike (The Tasting Kitchen); and a spirits buying guide.

In a previous Brand X issue, Joshua Lurie detailed an interesting connection between Aidan Demarest, John Coltharp, Joel Black and Brian Summers in La Frite, a Family Tree Nourished by Alcohol (Dec. 6, 2010).

LA Times Magazine continues to pair cocktail recipes and gorgeous photos, such as Apricot Dreams (Dec. 2010), featuring a couple of recipes by Varnish co-owner Eric Alperin. Recent entries in the magazine’s Cocktail Confidential blog covered the opening of Bar Toscana (Dec. 14, 2010) and the long-awaited launch of liquor sales at Silver Lake’s Bar Keeper (Sep. 24, 2010).

Camper English (Alcademics) has been writing a great series of articles for the magazine, including:

• Sherry Reconsidered (Feb. 2011), with recipes by Zahra Bates, Alex Day (Proprietors LLC), and others.
• The Martini Does Not Exist (Jan. 2011)
• Cognac Cocktails (Nov. 2010), with recipes by Damian Windsor (Roger Room).

• After a visit to Test Kitchen, Frank Bruni returned to New York and embarked on a quest for an elusive cocktail in Smitten with a Cocktail Called Frisco (Oct. 28, 2010).
• Matt Biancaniello is featured in the T Magazine article Savory Cocktails (Dec. 8, 2010), which includes a photo by Dylan Ho (The Cocktail Revival).
• In a Sunday Travel article (Feb. 20, 2011), a guide on how to spend 36 Hours in Downtown Los Angeles includes The Varnish, The Edison and Seven Grand.

In his acclaimed new book Living Loaded: Tales of Sex, Salvation and the Pursuit of the Never-Ending Happy Hour, author Dan Dunn (The Imbiber) begins each chapter with one of 16 original cocktail recipes, created by top bartenders such as local stars Vincenzo Marianella (Copa d’Oro) and Steve Livigni (Harvard & Stone), as well as King Cocktail himself, Dale DeGroff.

More love for The Varnish in the March 2011 issue of Bon Appetit, in an article called Hollywood Eats: 10 Ways to Do L.A. Like a Star. Number Five is Polish Off a Perfect Cocktail at The Varnish, and includes a recipe for a Bols Genever cocktail, the Holland Red Light.

In the March 2011 issue of Condé Nast Traveler, Bricia Lopez (Guelaguetza) gives props to her two favorite bars, La Descarga and Las Perlas, as part of the 27 Reasons to Love L.A. Now.

And to bring it all full circle, last week’s LA Weekly cover story featured Jonathan Gold’s list of L.A.’s Best Cocktails (Mar. 3, 2011). The collection of 55 drinks includes classics, signature favorites like the Donaji and Tapping the Admiral, intriguing unknowns like the Faulkner’s Breakfast at Musso & Frank, and left field choices like the Picon Punch in Bakersfield, of all places.

One more for the road: In anticipation of its upcoming Cocktails 2011 book, the April issue of Food & Wine magazine lists America’s Best New Bars, including The Tasting Kitchen and 1886 at The Raymond.

The bar that puts the "bar" in Bar | Kitchen.

When the O Hotel sent out a call for proposals to revitalize its restaurant and bar, Azzi Kashani (Director of Sales and Events) contacted David Kaplan and Alex Day of Proprietors LLC and suggested they throw their hats in the ring. Kaplan (co-founder and co-owner of New York’s acclaimed Death & Company) and his business partner Day (a former Death & Co. bartender) were initially hesitant about potentially consulting on a project that they weren’t involved in from Day One. Nevertheless, they submitted a proposal…and pretty much forgot about it as they turned their attention elsewhere.

Two months later, Kaplan and Day were told their proposal was accepted and they were scheduled to take over the O Bar & Kitchen on October 1st. Which would have been no problem, had their start date not been just two weeks after they were notified. To make matters even more difficult, Day was going to be in Asia for the first ten days of the month, consulting on Hong Kong’s Lily & Bloom, among other projects. And to top it off, dine LA was scheduled for the first two weeks of October.

Undaunted, Kaplan and Day took on the challenge of re-inventing a restaurant that had struggled, despite the hotel’s consistently high occupancy rate and a talented Executive Chef, Vahan Tokmadjian. The duo kept their re-design and management of O Bar & Kitchen well below the radar, which lead to rampant speculation as to the nature of their L.A. project. Once the newly-christened Bar | Kitchen was ready for its close-up, Caroline on Crack broke the news on Squid Ink, and Aaron Tell (The Savory Hunter) quickly followed with a mouth-watering review.

Bar | Kitchen dining room

Just before the holidays, I was invited to visit Bar | Kitchen for a hosted tasting of the new food and cocktail menus. I had been there once or twice in its previous incarnation, but I didn’t remember much besides its vivid color scheme and Tokmadjian’s well-executed food. Just past the lobby fireplace, Bar | Kitchen’s understated interior is now much closer to the rest of the boutique hotel’s modern, urban design. Undeterred by a steady rain, guests filled all of the main dining room’s 60 seats throughout my visit.

As I sat at the bar and looked over the menus, Kaplan explained that with Bar | Kitchen, he and Day wanted to create a place they would want to hang out at themselves. A keyword that kept popping up was “affordable.” With its daily lunch and dinner prix fixe menus ($18 and $28, respectively) and $10 cocktails, Bar | Kitchen definitely hits the mark.

Even better, during happy hour (4-7pm) a couple of the drinks are just $7 each, and selected bar bites are $4. More bargains can be found in the half-priced bottles of wine on Monday and Tuesday, at lunch and dinner. And if you’re in the industry, you’re in luck: Bar | Kitchen is offering $3 Fernet shots and a 20% discount on food to anyone in the business.

Although Kaplan and Day were keeping their consultation under wraps, they reached out to their industry contacts to begin the menu overhaul. For spirits, they worked backwards from a list of their own favorites. The wine list is overseen by Day, who said that seeking out boutique vineyards is his current passion. He noted that the wine menu is written to “strip away the pretension,” as in this straightforward description of the Malbec: “big wine with serious personality, for lovers of hearty styles – drink me with rich entrees.”

An existing Death & Co. relationship led to Bar | Kitchen using In Pursuit of Tea, but nothing seemed to excite the crew more than the debut of the Intelligentsia coffee program. Day showed off the shiny new coffee station the way an A/V enthusiast would rock his new surround sound system.

Smokescreen

The current drink menu is a basic list of four cocktails. Although Bar | Kitchen isn’t intended to be a craft cocktail bar like Death & Co., with Proprietors LLC managing it, it’s to be expected that the bar program will be top notch. I started with the Smokescreen, made with Bowmore Legend, fresh lime juice, a dash of green chartreuse and fresh mint. The Islay single malt anchors the cocktail with enough smoke to offset the acidity of the lime juice, and a hint of the chartreuse for depth. A great start to the menu tasting.

Though Kaplan and Day didn’t actively seek bartenders from New York, word about their consulting project trickled out, and among the new hires is Athena Freedlander, formerly of Gramercy Tavern. The home team is represented as well; my bartender during the tasting was Alyssa Swanzey, who was previously at Fraiche.

The view from the mezzanine.

An integral part of the new Bar | Kitchen is of course Chef Vahan Tokmadjian, who has been in the kitchen since the hotel’s 2007 opening, despite nine manager changes. The duo worked with the former Noé sous chef to create what Kaplan calls a “comfort-driven” menu, featuring market fresh ingredients and seasonal American cuisine, with a bit of Spanish influence. Portions are medium to large, enough to satisfy most appetites yet allowing guests to sample through the menus. Night owls take note: the kitchen is open until 11pm Monday through Wednesday, and til 12am Thursday through Saturday. Hotel guests have the option of ordering from Bar | Kitchen through in-room menus, something of a room service – takeout hybrid.

I chose one of the Mains, and Kaplan suggested that I start with a couple of Shared Plates. With my order placed, Kaplan led me on a walkthrough to talk about how far the space has come in the last two months. Considering the short timeframe and limited budget, Bar | Kitchen could easily be a case study in Restaurant Renovations 101.

Some of the design changes are easy to see: the blue and gold mirrors along the brick wall in the main space are now monochromatic, and the curtains that previously draped the wall are gone. A darker palette and plentiful candles give the restaurant a warm vibe. Kaplan drew on his fine art background (pun intended) to create the decorative artwork on a large chalkboard, while menu items are written on another one above the bar.

Due to its high ceiling, the long and narrow main room feels somewhat cavernous. To give the space a sense of intimacy, custom drop lights will be installed above the dining tables. The lights were sourced from a designer who’s worked with 213 Nightlife.

Bar | Kitchen’s open floor plan presented a unique challenge. Because the restaurant space flows into the lobby, the entrance (shared by the front desk and Bar | Kitchen) has to remain open 24 hours. The bar inventory would be too inviting a target, but emptying and restocking the shelves every day was out of the question. The solution was to install drop cages, which swing out of sight during operating hours.

As we headed upstairs, Kaplan showed me a room that’s been dubbed the Room of Requirement, an office so stunningly garish even Caligula would have thought it was too much. Coming into an existing venue means constant surprises like this room, which thankfully remains inaccessible behind a locked door.

The communal table in the private dining room.

A private dining room is located past the mezzanine lounge, which overlooks the main space. The night of my tasting, a party of 20 guests had booked a dinner event, and to my surprise I never noticed them. (A lobby elevator offers discreet access.) Also available for special events is an intimate VIP room, with a private bar and dining area.

For Kaplan, a self-described “perfectionist,” his attention to detail is evident. Menus are given a tactile quality by printing them on tiered sheets and presenting them on clipboards. Staff “uniforms” are low key and informal, while the soundtrack (which guests have complimented) is curated through Pandora.

Restoration Road

Then it was back to the bar for Round Two, the Restoration Road: blanco tequila, fresh lime juice, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc, and raspberries. The fruit forward, sweet Restoration Road was a perfect accompaniment for the appetizers that soon arrived.

Stuffed Piquillos Peppers

First were the Stuffed Piquillo Peppers, with Italian sausage and spicy tomato sauce ($8). Diners who don’t like too much heat may want to skip this feisty appetizer, but I enjoyed the nice kick from the sauce.

White Anchovy Bruschetta

From texture to temperature, the White Anchovy Bruschetta with celery gremolata ($6) offered a nice counterpoint to the stuffed peppers. The anchovies are front and center, contrasted by the crunch of the bruschetta and the zesty gremolata.

Braised Beef Short Ribs

My entree was the Braised Beef Short Ribs, with seasonal root vegetables and roasted carrot puree ($19). The fork-tender beef was excellent, the vegetables were perfectly cooked, and the carrot puree was flavorful but not overly rich. The hearty dish was just what was needed on a chilly, rainy night.

Site Hound

I finished with a Site Hound, a bright and refreshing Greyhound variation made with gin, Aperol, fresh lemon and grapefruit juices, and seltzer water.

Chocolate Pot du Crème

Kaplan sent out the Chocolate Pot du Crème with whipped cream and fleur de sel, and while I’m not one for desserts, this was definitely one I’ll be ordering again. It’s not too sweet or heavy, and the sea salt subtly enhances the chocolate with each spoonful.

The addictive Parmesan Truffle Tots, served in a shaker tin.

At this point I was joined by The Savory Hunter himself, who had seen my tweets during the tasting and stopped by Bar | Kitchen on his way to an event. Aaron ordered the Parmesan Truffle Tots ($7), a side dish that was initially going to be taken off the menu, until a chorus of protests saved it. Thankfully so; despite being filled to bursting with food, I couldn’t stop nibbling on them. The tots are served in a shaker tin, a nice touch when you’re snacking at the bar.

Blanchet

Since I had already tried three of the cocktails, Aaron ordered the fourth one: the Blanchet, made with vodka, honey, fresh lemon and orange juices, and basil. Though I was nearing palate fatigue, my sip of the Blanchet did register enough for me to note that it matched well with the salty, addictive tots.

The fine-tuning at Bar | Kitchen will continue into the new year: the staff is scheduled for Intelligentsia and POSitouch training; the cocktail menu will begin to change weekly, with bartenders contributing their own creations; the silverware will be replaced. (Day literally winced at a knife when I held it up.)

In the meantime, Bar | Kitchen seems to be on its way to becoming something of an industry hangout; on separate visits I ran into Joe Brooke (The Edison) and Eric Alperin (The Varnish), who stopped by with Sam Ross (Milk & Honey, et al). Beyond the bartender clientele, Bar | Kitchen’s lively mix of high quality and affordability is sure to entice downtown residents, workers, and visitors alike.

Bar | Kitchen
O Hotel
819 S. Flower St.
Los Angeles, CA 90017
(213) 623-9904
www.ohotelgroup.com

Wherever you go on New Year’s Eve, please celebrate responsibly: Metro is offering free fares on all Metro Buses and Metro Rail Lines on Dec. 31st, and Y Drive or a taxi is just a phone call away.

Cheers to a fantastic 2011!

NEW YEAR’S EVE 2010: Friday, Dec. 31, 2010 to Saturday, Jan. 1, 2011

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213 Nightlife – New Year’s Eve Downtown LA

• 8pm-2am
• General Admission ticket: $119
• VIP ticket: $250
• Tickets and info: www.nyedowntownla.com

213 Nightlife is going all-out with a New Year’s Eve Downtown LA crawl that takes place at eight of its bars. (See below for what’s happening at The Varnish.) For $119 General Admission, New Year’s Eve revelers can enjoy a plethora of unlimited drink offerings, midnight champagne toasts, and live music at Broadway Bar, Caña, Casey’s, Cole’s, Golden Gopher, Las Perlas, Seven Grand and Tony’s Saloon.

213 is offering a special $99 early bird price to the first 200 guests to purchase tickets online.

Featuring:

• Casey’s Irish Pub – Open bar well spirits, 11 craft beers and wine. Gram Rabbit live, Special Guest DJs.
• Caña Rum Bar – Daiquiri Bar and fresh handcrafted cocktails served all night. The Icy Hot Club of California serves up “vintage gypsy jazz with a modern twist.”
• Broadway Bar – Open bar on all wells, all night. DJs B-Mix and J-Cru spin 80′s, Disco and Funk.
• Cole’s French Dip – Open Champagne Cocktail Bar with house-made and branded bitters, plus Cole’s classic cocktails all night.
• Golden Gopher – Open bar on wells, beer and wine all night. DJ Mike Turski spins rock ‘n’ roll til 2am.
• Las Perlas – Open bar features the Las Perlas House Margarita, Spiced Daisy, El Jimador Tequila and cerveza. “Indie Big Sonic Heaven” with DJ Darren Revell and Kapsoul.
• Seven Grand – Vieux Carre, Manhattan, and Bourbon Fix cocktails featuring Jim Beam Rye, Wild Turkey Rye, and Buffalo Trace Bourbon well spirits. Or call for Maker’s Mark. Music by Deacon Jones All-Star Blues Revue, with Artwalk Jamal and Special Guests.
• Tony’s Saloon – Open well bar with select premium cocktails all night. “Rock and twang” with Paul Chesne and Guest DJs.

The General Admission ticket allows entry to the eight bars included in the event. However, the ticket does not guarantee entry; for obvious safety reasons each venue must observe its respective capacity limit. With that in mind, 213 Nightlife is also offering a limited number of $250 VIP tickets. These no-wait line passes guarantee entry and ups the ante to premium pours at all eight bars throughout the night. Needless to say, whichever ticket you buy, early arrival is strongly suggested.

The Varnish – Rare Groove New Year’s Eve Soul Revue

• 9pm-2am
• $125 per person (gratuity included)
• Unlimited craft cocktails
• Bottomless Bols Genever punch
• Midnight champagne toast
• Countdown to 2010 by the Apple Sisters
• Reservations: (213) 622-9999 or email thevarnish@varnishbar.com

The Varnish will be dancing to its own beat on New Year’s Eve, with an all-inclusive $125 ticket that features unlimited craft cocktails, bottomless punch, a “Served with a Twist” contest, and more.

Tables in the intimate venue are available for parties of two, four and six. Seating for New Year’s Eve is very limited; for reservations contact Varnish GM Chris Bostick at (213) 622-9999, or email thevarnish@varnishbar.com.

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1886 Bar / The Raymond – Good Old Days Are Back Again!
Nothing like a new year to start fresh, and with that in mind, Pasadena’s 1886 Bar and The Raymond welcome 2011 with the optimism and nostalgia of Good Old Days Are Back Again! For a $20 cover, guests at the recently-opened 1886 will enjoy entertainment, champagne toast and special bar menu.

The Raymond will offer guests two dinner seatings on New Year’s Eve. The early and late seatings will each have prix fixe menus that feature Chef Tim Guiltinan’s innovative, contemporary cuisine. Guests who opt for the late seating will also enjoy party favors, entertainment and a midnight toast.

Dinner reservations can be made at (626) 441-3136.

1886 Bar

• 9pm-2am
• $20 Cover
• Party Favors
• Entertainment (TBA)
• Champagne Toast at Midnight
• Limited Bar Food Menu will be offered with special items

The Raymond – Early Seating

• 5pm-7pm
• 5-Course Prix Fixe Menu
• $90

The Raymond – Late Seating*

• 7pm-9:30pm
• 6-Course Prix Fixe Menu
• $105

*Also includes Party Favors, Entertainment & Champagne Toast at Midnight

Bar | Kitchen
Since taking over Bar | Kitchen in October, Alex Day and David Kaplan (Proprietors LLC) have revitalized the O Hotel’s restaurant and lounge with new menus and an understated interior that more closely matches the boutique hotel’s classy vibe. For New Year’s Eve, Bar | Kitchen offers its mix of high quality and affordability with two options: a Prix Fixe Dinner and Booze & Bites.

The Prix Fixe Dinner features a 3-course menu of seasonal American cuisine from Executive Chef Vahan Tokmadjian, which includes a glass of sparkling cava with dessert. (The chocolate pot du crème with whipped cream and fleur de sel is superb.)

The Booze & Bites Menu offers an open bar with specialty cocktails, beer and wine, plus a midnight toast. To go with the libations, passed trays of bites will be served until midnight, including bruschetta, flatbreads and chorizo skewers. Booze & Bites drinks will be served until last call.

Prix Fixe Dinner

• 6pm-11pm
• $55
• 3-course menu (includes glass of sparkling cava with dessert)

Booze & Bites

• 8pm-2am
• $35 plus tax & tip
• Unlimited cocktails, beer and wine
• Sparkling midnight toast
• Passed bites

Reservations for the prix fixe dinner are required and can be made by calling the O Hotel at (213) 623-9904, or emailing Azzi Kashani at azzi@ohotelgroup.com.

Photo: Big Bar

Big Bar – NYE x 9

• 4pm to 12am
• Different internationally-inspired cocktail every hour
• Complimentary champagne toast at midnight
• Open until 1am

Big Bar is living up to its name by celebrating New Year’s Eve nine times on Friday. Starting at 4pm, Big Bar will feature a different internationally-inspired cocktail every hour, so guests can welcome 2011 with friends around the globe. Add in a free champagne toast at midnight, and you’ve got the makings of a world-class New Year’s Eve.

4PM GMT (London, Lisbon, Reykjavik, Casablanca, Dublin)

• Sugar Rose: vodka, orange bitters, rose water, sugar

5PM EGT (Scoresby Sund – Greenland)

• Scoresby Sund Buck: spiced rum, apricot liqueur, lime, ginger

6PM BRST (Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paolo)

• Carioca Velha: Sagatiba Velha Cachaça, lime, Angostura bitters, mint, sparkling wine

7PM ART (Buenos Aires, Santiago)

• Pisco Sour: gran serape Pisco, lemon, egg white

8PM AST (Halifax, La Paz, San Juan)

• El Cantante: Bacardi 8, lime, elderflower, rhubarb bitters

9PM EST (New York City, Boston, Philadelphia, Havana, Lima)

• Manhattan: Woodford Reserve Bourbon, sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters

10PM CST (Chicago, Houston, New Orleans, Mexico City)

• Grito Suave: añejo tequila, amaretto, lime

11PM MST (Phoenix, Denver, El Paso, Edmonton)

• Canadian Maple: Woodford Reserve Bourbon, maple syrup, Angostura bitters, lemon

12AM PST (Los Angeles, San Francisco, Seattle, Vancouver)

• Los Angeles Cocktail: Woodford Reserve Bourbon, vermouth, lemon, egg white, nutmeg

Copa d’Oro

• $20 cover
• Complimentary bottles of champagne and party favors for all reservations
• Entertainment: Special Surprise Guest DJ & Expanded Dance Floor

Reservations

• Available for parties of six or more
• Phone: (310) 567-3030
• Email: info@copadoro.com

Copa d’Oro is already jammed on weekends, so on New Year’s Eve expect the volume at the Santa Monica nightspot to go to 11. Head bartender Vincenzo Marianella is bringing in reinforcements for the big night: according to a Huffington Post Q&A, Zahra Bates (Providence) will be joining Marianella behind the bar on Friday.

The Edison

• Doors 8pm
• General Admission: $75
• Premium Table Reservations: $300 per table and up
• Entertainment by The Yard Dogs Road Show
• Tickets: edisondowntown.com/tickets/index.php?eventid=744

Venues don’t get more stunning than The Edison, which is ringing in the new year with its mix of cocktails, champagne and music. General Admission Tickets ($75) include a champagne toast and passed desserts at midnight. Premium Table Reservations start at $300 per table and include a bottle of copper-clad Beau Joie Champagne and a dessert plate.

Entertainment will be provided by The Yard Dogs Road Show, a “hobo cabaret” that fuses Vaudeville with modern rock.

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First & Hope – A New York New Years

• Prix Fixe Seatings starting at 4:30pm
• Live Music in Fedora All Night
• Party Favors & Giveaways
• Best Cocktail Dress & Sharp Dressed Man Contest
• Champagne Toast
• East Coast and West Coast Countdowns at 9pm & 12am
• Reservations: (213) 617-8555 or visit FirstAndHope.com

First & Hope is doing the bi-coastal thing with its New York New Years celebration, featuring East and West Coast countdowns, champagne toast, live music, and a Best Cocktail Dress & Sharp Dressed Man contest.

On New Year’s Eve, First & Hope is offering several prix fixe dinner seatings, with the earliest one beginning at 4:30pm.

Update 12/22: First & Hope has announced that Alain Giraud will be the guest chef on New Year’s Eve. Pricing and details for the prix fixe dinner options have also been revealed, with seating available in the main dining room or in Fedora, featuring Brenna Whitaker.

Pre-Theatre Seating (4:30 & 5pm)

• $85: 3-course in main dining room
• $110: 3-course in Fedora (live music)

Premiere Seating (7:30 & 8pm)

• $120: 4-course in main dining room
• $140: 4-course in Fedora (live music)

Late Seating (10:15pm)

• $95: 3-course in main dining room
• Fedora opens to everyone

First & Hope is giving away a New Year’s Eve prize package (valued at over $500) that includes a pair of tickets to see New Year’s Eve with Kristen Chenoweth at Walt Disney Concert Hall, plus dinner for two at First & Hope. Tickets are for the 7pm concert, and a gift card to First & Hope is for $200. The contest ends at noon on Dec. 29, and the winner will be notified that day. To enter, visit www.firstandhope.com/nye/.

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La Descarga – Havana 1909

• 9pm-2am
• All-inclusive ticket: $150
• Black Tie required
• Premium Open Bar all night
• Complimentary Hand Rolled Cigars
• Midnight Toast
• 7 Courses of passed appetizers and desserts
• 8-Piece Band and dancing
• Reservations: nye@ladescargala.com

For its first New Year’s Eve celebration, La Descarga is using the Wayback Machine to transport guests to an elegant black tie affair set in Havana, circa 1909. Included in the $150 ticket is an all-night open bar, champagne toast, multi-course apps and desserts, live music and dancing. And to ensure you have plenty of room to shake your money maker, attendance for Havana 1909 will be limited to 150 guests.

Photo: Rivera

Rivera

• Prix Fixe Dinner – First Seating: $70
• Prix Fixe Dinner – Second Seating: $100
• Champagne toast (Second Seating)
• Reservations: (213) 749-1460

Unlike the open bar frenzy of last year, Rivera mixologist Julian Cox will be mixing a couple of New Year’s Eve cocktails to pair with the Prix Fixe Dinner menus. The First Seating will be five courses for $70 per person, and the Second Seating will be seven courses for $100 (includes champagne toast).

Photo: The Tar Pit

The Tar Pit – A Revival, Happening.

• Doors 8pm
• $95 per person
• 10-course passed appetizers
• 2 specialty cocktails
• Midnight champagne toast
• Music by Vintage Trouble
• Reservations: info@tarpitbar.com

For a swellegant New Year’s Eve, The Tar Pit is offering cocktails, champagne and passed apps for an all-inclusive $95 admission. Vintage Trouble performs “live-wired, straight-shootin, dirty-mouth’d pelvis-pushin’ juke music” starting at 10:30pm.

My partner in crime for the Crawl was Justin Sloe, DJ extraordinaire and craft beer expert (not necessarily in that order). Media check-in was at Seven Grand, where Sloe and I met up to get our wristbands, map and 6-ounce tasting glasses. The Manila Machine (one of several food vendors selected for the Crawl by LA Weekly’s Jonathan Gold) was parked in front, but we didn’t have time to eat; there was beer waiting for us upstairs!

At Seven Grand, Crawlers queued up for Craftsman and other top breweries.

Seven Grand’s main room was packed with Crawlers sipping pours from brewers such as Allagash and Lost Coast, who were set up along the bar. On the far side of the room was Craftsman Brewing, who poured us their Fireworks Saison. Light and fruity with a bit of funk, the saison was an excellent way to kick off the Crawl. Comment from Justin Sloe (JS): “Perfect warm weather beer with a nice kick of Belgian yeast.”

We made our way to the Jackalope Room, where the Beer Chicks were leading a media tasting of several of their top picks:

• Craftsman Oktoberfest – a sweet and malty follow-up to our first pour of the Crawl. JS, from his Beer Advocate review: “The roasted oat malt shine in the nose and the taste. It’s caramel with a touch of cashew. Slight hop profile fills in with a nice finish.”
• Lost Coast Grand Cru – an Imperial White Ale that the Beer Chicks described as “Blue Moon on acid.” JS: “This was supposed to be a bigger version of their Great White Witbier, a beer I generally don’t like. Surprised to find this more refined and subtle.”
• Allagash Curieux – a Belgian-style Tripel aged for eight weeks in Jim Beam bourbon barrels. The aging adds oak, vanilla and sweet caramel notes to the Tripel’s 11% ABV kick. JS: “The bourbon could easily overpower the spiciness, but they compliment each other well. Big beer.”
• Craftsman Aurora Borealis – the “secret beer” scheduled to be tapped later at Seven Grand, a Belgian Strong Pale Ale that was a bit much for me. Sloe thought it was “too hot for something like this, I’d like to try it in the winter.”

A beer float made with Maui CoCoNut Porter, perfect for Caña's patio.

This being an L.A. bar crawl, we drove to our next stop, Caña Rum Bar. Inside, Crawlers queued up for beer floats made with Maui Brewing Co. CoCoNut Porter, which were served in Caña’s glasses rather than the Beer Crawl tasters. The delicious beer floats, with their great mix of coconut, coffee, chocolate and vanilla flavors, were a perfect fit for the heat wave. JS: “The vanilla ice cream (wish we got the coconut gelato!) went great with the richness of the porter and the coconut shined through.”

Out on the patio, Jolly Pumpkin was out of their Oro de Calabaza, so we went with the Bam Bière, a dry, sour farmhouse ale that Sloe describes as “another funky saison, could drink this all day.” Back at the bar, Caña GM Allan Katz poured us a round of Maui Brewing’s Big Swell IPA, which was hops-forward and malty with a sweet and slightly bitter finish. JS: “Big Swell is a terrific IPA when fresh, and it was. Large hop profile, which I love.”

As we drove down Broadway (where we spotted the LudoTruck parked next to Broadway Bar), we made the executive decision to head straight to Las Perlas. First up for me was Uncommon Brewers Siamese Twin, a Belgian-style Dubbel seasoned with coriander and Thai spices, with notes of lemongrass and lime. Then came Uncommon’s Bacon Brown Ale, which didn’t have the smoke or pepper I was hoping for, but did have some caramel and an odd sourness. JS: “You could taste some savoriness in the finish, but I’d be lying if I said I could taste the swine.”

Guelaguetza's chicken tamale with black mole.

And then, who should we see at the bar but the Mezcal Muse herself, Bricia Lopez. She was at Las Perlas to oversee the Guelaguetza station, which was serving chicken tamales with black mole on the patio. While Sloe and I sipped our beers, Bricia graciously brought over two boxes for us. We gratefully inhaled the delicious meal, a perfectly timed respite that fueled us for the remainder of the Crawl.

But we weren’t quite done with Las Perlas. Eagle Rock Brewery was outside, where co-owner and brewer Jeremy Raub first poured us a round of his crisp and refreshing Manifesto Eagle Rock Wit. The Belgian-style white ale, with its citrus and floral notes, was especially enjoyable on the patio. JS: “One of my faves of the day – he nailed the classic witbier with a lil’ spiciness [you] might find in a saison. Amazing beer.” Next was the Eagle Rock Populist, an herbaceous IPA strong on hops and spice. JS: “Fine representation of this American hop attack classic.”

The Hot Knives, Evan George (L) and Alex Brown (R).

Then it was across the street to the Crawl’s VIP Lounge, located inside the Varnish. As we walked in, The Hot Knives (Alex Brown and Evan George) were pouring their Tonka Bean Porter (actual name here) for eager Crawlers. I would add some tasting notes, but my ADD kicked in when Varnish bartender Devon Tarby called us over and said, “This is for you.”

The Double Black Diamond: so nice, we had it twice.

“This” was the Double Black Diamond, made with Deschutes Black Butte Porter, Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, whole egg, and freshly grated nutmeg. The DBD was a ridiculously good beer cocktail, a drink with a richness and depth of flavor that could be enjoyed in cooler weather, yet went down so nice and easy on Saturday night. Sloe was probably underestimating when he said he “could have had a dozen of these.”

Devon Tarby puts the finishing touches on our Double Black Diamonds.

TAPS Brewmaster Victor Novak was also at the Varnish, pouring directly from hand-labeled bottles. We did get a taste for one of our glasses, but the Double Black Diamonds were calling us again, this time mixed by Varnish GM Chris Bostick. We didn’t try the Picon Bière (TAPS Belgian White, Torani Amer, lemon juice, sugar), but it would have to be a beer cocktail of biblical proportions to surpass the DBD.

Chris Bostick prepares a Picon Bière.

And with that, the Crawl over and it was time for the lights to go down for regular service. Of course, since we were at the Varnish this also meant it was time for a round of cocktails, courtesy of Sloe. Alex Day was now behind the bar, and it was great to introduce him to Sloe, who remarked that he loves to watch someone (of any profession) working at the top of their game. Sloe thought his tequila drink was “delicious,” and even though I missed the cocktail’s name, with its use of mezcal and flamed orange peel I’d guess that it was a Oaxaca Old Fashioned. As for me, Day made a Left Hand (bourbon, sweet vermouth, Campari and mole bitters) that hit all the right flavor notes, something I could still appreciate even after a day of sampling so many great beers.

Cheers to 213 and the Beer Chicks for putting together a successful Beer Crawl. Here’s hoping it’s the first of many!

An occasional roundup of L.A. cocktail culture in various media.

Just in time for Super Bowl Sunday, LA Times Magazine featured recipes for four classic tiki cocktails, “reimagined for a new generation.” Love the retro-style artwork, too.

On February 11, an LA Times Food article included a profile of Modern Spirits (TRU Vodka, found at some of LA’s best cocktail bars) and the ups and downs of being an artisan distillery.

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Two articles in the much-discussed Los Angeles issue of Saveur (#127, Feb) focused on LA’s cocktail culture:

Drink City is a solid list of cocktail destinations that includes The Edison, Seven Grand, Rivera, Roger Room, and Copa d’Oro. The Varnish wasn’t listed, but was instead mentioned in a sidebar on the Cole’s-Philippe’s French Dip rivalry.

In Spirits of Polynesia, Jeff Berry takes a look at the wonderful Tiki-Ti, affectionately calling the owners “textbook examples of how not to succeed in the bar business.”

Also in the Saveur issue are cocktail recipes for Rivera’s Barbacoa and Tiki-Ti’s Cuba Kola and Puka Punch.

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On Fat Tuesday, The Edison announced that Joe Brooke (named America’s Best Bartender and formerly at Copa d’Oro) would assume the role of Director of Spirits, a position formerly held by Aidan Demerest, now consulting for the cocktail program at the upcoming First & Hope.

The very next day, cocktail enthusiasts were a-Twitter over a Daily Dish post that said that Audrey Saunders had ended her Tar Pit partnership with Mark Peel. According to the LA Times, Peel said that Saunders “did all the training and designing for the original menu, and I think she did a great job. We just came to a parting of the ways.” It was announced that Marcos Tello would head the Tar Pit bar, until word came later that day that he was also leaving. Squid Ink followed up with a confirmation that Marcos had indeed resigned from the Tar Pit to return to The Varnish as well as consult on the aforementioned First & Hope.

Speaking of Squid Ink and First & Hope, Caroline on Crack posted a sneak preview of the forthcoming supper club, scheduled to open in mid-March. The preview also includes a recipe for the Champagne Julep, an upscale take on the classic mint julep.

A week after the dust had settled at the Tar Pit, the LA Times published a review by S. Irene Virbila. Tar Pit got two stars from Miss Irene, who gave it props for the cocktails but thought the kitchen was inconsistent.

On Thursday, February 25th, Alex Day worked his last shift at New York’s renowned Death & Company. What does this have to do with L.A. cocktail culture you ask? Well, according to his interview with the Village Voice, Alex is heading to Los Angeles to open a bar with Death & Co. owner David Kaplan. New York’s loss is L.A.’s gain; stay tuned, friends.

Last week, the LA Weekly published Jonathan Gold’s 99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die, a list that covers everything from “fugu to foie gras, pizza to panuchos.” Best of all, you can also have a great cocktail when you check off a few of these must-eat dishes:

• Rivera’s tortillas
• Musso & Frank’s Welsh rarebit
• Cole’s French Dip
• Akasha’s quinoa with edamame
• Comme Ca’s cheeseburger
• Michael Cimarusti’s squid with piquillo peppers and pig’s ear
• Hungry Cat’s lobster roll

Mezcal and tequila fans have been eagerly anticipating the debut of 213 Downtown’s Las Perlas, and according to blogdowntown, the opening could happen as early as today. The post describes the interior in detail, noting that Ricki Kline is especially happy with how his latest design for 213 turned out.