Thirsty in LA » bar

Mixed Messages Sent By Rockwell

thirstyinla — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 18:25:27 +0000

~ photos by Lena Watanabe

After numerous delays, the highly anticipated Rockwell VT officially debuts with a Grand Opening Weekend on October 1-4. In the meantime, Rockwell has been in soft opening mode, and last Thursday our group stopped in to check out the newest addition to bustling Vermont Avenue.

On our arrival, we were told that Rockwell was hosting a previously scheduled fundraiser. While we waited for Rockwell to open its doors, we decided to have drinks and apps at the adjacent Vermont restaurant. The bar food was uniformly excellent: the spicy calamari, potato croquettes, and grilled cheese bites were big hits with everyone. We were seriously tempted to stay, until we found out the cabaret was about to begin and a cover charge was going into effect. Check please!

The coral tree is an impressive centerpiece.

Normally, guests enter Rockwell through the alley behind Vermont, but since we were already in the restaurant we took a shortcut through the connecting hallway. Once we were in the courtyard, the first thing we noticed was the much-hyped coral tree. It certainly makes for an impressive centerpiece. The 30-foot tree anchors the venue’s design, with the staircase and upper levels winding around the tree’s wide expanse.

The Main Bar.

Our group made a beeline for the main bar and found a nice corner booth. On a sultry night in the middle of a heat wave, the main bar area was an oasis of cool comfort, practically arctic despite being an indoor-outdoor space.

The Lovely Pear.

From the short $10 cocktail list I ordered a Lovely Pear, made with honey-infused Bulleit Bourbon, pear liqueur, and chilled pear nectar. The smoky, rye-forward Bulleit was nicely balanced by the pear flavors, while the honey provided just the right amount of sweetness. It was a promising start.

Lena and Amy both ordered the Gemini (Hangar One Mandarin Blossom Vodka, St. Germain, grilled grapefruit, jalapeño). Neither of their drinks had any hint of spice or citrus other than the flavored vodka. Even the St. Germain was MIA. Their cocktails weren’t necessarily bad but they weren’t very memorable, either.

After placing our food order, we grabbed our drinks and explored the sprawling layout.

From the second level, you have a bird’s eye view of the coral tree and courtyard:

A second level with booths and seating:

A ramp leads away from the second level…

…to a secluded gathering area.

By the time we returned, our food had arrived. Our enthusiastic and attentive server told us that Rockwell shares a kitchen with Vermont. For some inexplicable reason, the food wasn’t nearly as impressive. The Monday Meatballs were average, and pricey at $12. Despite our server’s reassurances, the Fried Little Chicken wasn’t easy to share, unless there’s a way to share mashed potatoes and gravy that I wasn’t aware of. The Pancetta Flatbread (pancetta, crème fraiche, caramelized onions, fig jam, gorgonzola) was disappointing as well, despite ingredients that should’ve made it a slam dunk. The one successful appetizer was the brussels sprouts, pan-seared with pancetta and balsamico and quickly gobbled up.

The Addison.

I finished with an Addison (G’Vine Floraison Gin, Cointreau, crushed cucumber, dill and lemon). The first one I ordered was pretty much straight gin and had to be sent back. After profuse apologies from our server I had a much better one made by a different bartender. She even waved at me from the bar to see if I gave it a thumbs up or down. It was good, maybe not as tasty as the Lovely Pear but a nice way to close out the night.

I had high hopes for Rockwell, and in the looks department it certainly delivers. But in other aspects Rockwell sends mixed messages. It wants to be a high-end lounge and event space, and yet drinks are served in plastic cups! Is this Spring Break? The cocktail menu hints at mixology aspirations, but the heavy-handed booze pours are more suitable for the vodka-Red Bull crowd. The food is supposedly designed to be shared, but in execution the items don’t reflect this.

During a soft opening phase there has to be some leeway while a venue works out the kinks, and Rockwell is no exception. There’s plenty of potential for it to become a lively destination. The lovely setting, ample space, DJ booth and custom sound system will entice anyone looking for a special event venue. I know I’ll be back to give the cocktails and food another try. Hopefully they’ll find some real glasses by then.

Rockwell VT
Located behind Vermont Restaurant
1714 N. Vermont Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90027
(323) 669-1550
www.rockwellvt.com

Drinks with a View: Rockwell Opens in September

thirstyinla — Fri, 21 Aug 2009 17:18:15 +0000

Rockwell, a multi-level restaurant, bar and outdoor lounge located behind Vermont Restaurant in Los Feliz, is nearly ready for its September launch. Rockwell integrates 6,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor spaces, with dining and lounge areas designed around a 30-foot coral tree. A staircase leads to the upper levels and panoramic views of Los Angeles.

Chef-owner Wayne Elias and Vermont chef Stephane Beaucamp have created a menu focused on seasonal and sustainable items, such as a savory braised short rib and a fried shallots flatbread pizza topped with smoked tomatoes and melted gruyere. Lighter fare includes 7 Pepper Calamari (topped with ginger, cucumber, jalapeno and scallions) and Rockwell Tacos, made with taro root shells, spicy tuna, jicama and avocado.

Specialty cocktails will include the Sazerac Vermont (Rittenhouse rye, Peychaud’s Bitters and a touch of absinthe) and the Anti-Rita, a new school margarita made with silver tequila, VeeV Açaí, acai-blueberry juice, lime and agave nectar. Craft beer fans will find Angel City Vitzen, Santa Cruz Ale Works IPA, and more, along with “Big Beers” like Lost Coast Tangerine Wheat.

Rockwell
Opening September 2009
Located behind Vermont Restaurant
1417 N. Vermont Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90027

Cocktails Maximus at the Roger Room

thirstyinla — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 00:04:36 +0000

Not an actual Roger Room monkey.

After a solid cocktail session at 8oz Burger Bar, we were ready for more and headed over to the Roger Room. Located next to Largo in the space formerly occupied by the Coronet Pub, the Roger Room is the latest from the Bar Lubitsch team of Jared Meisler and partner Sean MacPherson. When it opened last month, much ado was made about the Roger Room’s “media embargo” and strict no photography policy. Blogs, Twitter, and Yelp have since posted freely about the Roger Room, though taking photos still isn’t permitted as far as I know.

Although there’s no Roger Room signage (shh…it’s a speakeasy), the Largo’s “THEATRE” sign next door is easy to spot, as are the storefront fortune teller neon signs. You’ll also notice the friendly neighborhood bouncer monitoring the Roger Room’s entrance. A black curtain separates the front door from the main room, and upon entering you actually feel like you’ve stumbled upon a secret watering hole, frozen in time. Throughout the dimly-lit room, circus-themed painted panels, stained glass windows, antique fixtures and yellowed photographs set a playful yet vintage mood. The colorful menus, decorated with whimsical polka dots, also stick with the theme. Thankfully the music breaks out of the circus, opting instead for a nice old school funk/soul vibe.

While Scot ordered our drinks, I snagged one of the small booths lining the wall opposite the bar. Other tables on the far end of the room were continuously occupied. A couple of water tumblers magically appeared, a nice touch and very much appreciated on this night.

Reversing our 8oz plan of attack, I ordered Roger Room signature cocktails (created by Meisler and the ubiquitous Damian Windsor) while Scot mostly stuck to classics. First up for me was the Thug: Maker’s Mark Bourbon, Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur, lemon juice and spicy habanero bitters. It’s aptly named; I was knocked for a loop by the Thug’s wicked mix of smoky, spicy and sweet flavors. While not overpowering, the Thug certainly packs a punch.

Meanwhile, Scot left his cocktail choice in the expert hands of Tai, our knowledgeable and amiable bartender. Tai’s refreshing take on a Bourbon Smash was very close to a Mint Julep (which is technically a Smash, after all), omitting the berries seen in more traditional Bourbon Smashes. For both of us, a great first round.

By now the noise level had risen considerably, to the point where we were shouting across a very small table. After our 8oz experience, we were starting to sense a theme. Considering the Roger Room’s “speakeasy” pretensions, you’d almost expect a “quiet, please” policy, but even if there was one I doubt any of the bartenders could be bothered to enforce it. Not to mention the hipster crowd would probably revolt if there was such a rule.

On to Round Two, and for me that meant an Old Sport: CapRock Organic Dry Gin, black tea-infused SOHO lychee liqueur, cucumber juice, and lime juice, served up. Another great cocktail, with a flavor mix that started with the bitterness of the black tea and moved onto the clean, fruit/floral notes of the CapRock, balanced with the lychee and juices. Returning to the circus theme, a cucumber slice was playfully hooked onto the glass by a plastic monkey.

Speaking of monkeys, one of the busboys could have been Brad Pitt’s younger brother. Or Pitt himself, circa “12 Monkeys.” These are the things that come to mind after a Thug and an Old Sport. But I digress…

Scot opted for an Old Fashioned, his go-to classic cocktail, for his second round. This time he specified Buffalo Trace, a mutual favorite of ours. Once again, perfectly executed by Tai; we were feeling good and two for two.

For Round Three, I had a Spiced Mule (Saylor Jerry Spiced Rum, ginger juice, lime juice, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, club soda, rocks), an outstanding drink that offers a flavor grab bag of spice and ginger, with a tart finish. This was the consensus drink of the night, and that includes our previous cocktails at 8oz.

Scot finished with a Scarlet Aperol Fizz (Scarlet Ibis Rum, Aperol, lemon juice, egg white, crushed ice), a frothy creation with nuanced floral and caramel flavors, offset by hints of bitter and tart notes. Both Round Three drinks were top notch, a fantastic way to end an excellent session.

The cocktails at the Roger Room are up there with the city’s best, placing it in the top tier of bars alongside The Varnish and Copa d’Oro. Cocktail enthusiasts have already made the Roger Room the worst kept secret in town, but if you plan ahead crowds shouldn’t be an issue. As with the best things in life, it’s worth the effort.

The Roger Room
370 N La Cienega Blvd. (@ Oakwood Ave.)
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 854-1300

July 3: Rivera Summer Cocktails Launch Party

thirstyinla — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 05:04:35 +0000

The Bramble officially debuts this Friday.

You know you’re doing something right as a mixologist when peers like Erick Castro (of San Francisco’s acclaimed Bourbon & Branch) stop in for a drink and give you props. Such is the case with Rivera Restaurant’s Julian Cox, who has received praise from all the local media (e.g. the LA Weekly) and was just name checked in the August issue of Wine & Spirits Magazine (“The New Tequiliers”).

Julian has been putting the final touches on his new summer cocktail menu, and last Saturday he surprised us with a sneak preview of two of his latest creations. I sampled The Bramble (gin, lemon, simple syrup, muddled blackberries), while my friend was presented with The 1050 Special (VeeV Açaí, lemon, muddled raspberries). Both cocktails were refreshing, flavorful, and ready-made for the dog days of summer. As we enjoyed our drinks, Julian described The Love Stone, another summer cocktail made with rye, fresh cherries, and a plumberry tincture. In all, he expects to add 15 new cocktails, with around 5 holdovers from the previous menu. Julian revealed that John Sedlar is also working on new Rivera menu items, as well as the debut of a raw bar, charcuterie, and cheese plates.

The 1050 Special, also new for the summer.

Rivera’s summer cocktail menu officially debuts this Friday, July 3rd. Guests will be able to order the new drinks when Rivera opens for dinner, but starting at 9pm Julian will be hosting a launch party, featuring $5 cocktails and a special bar menu. Summer cocktailing and Latin fusion cuisine, can’t think of a better way to kick off Independence Weekend!

Summer Cocktails Launch Party
Friday, July 3, 2009
9pm-close

Rivera Restaurant
1050 S. Flower St. #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015
213-749-1460
www.riverarestaurant.com

The Peninsula Cocktail Hour – Princely Potables, Pauper's Prices

thirstyinla — Fri, 22 May 2009 21:52:53 +0000

It’s not every day one gets to spend a couple of hours enjoying the perks of a AAA Five Diamond, Mobil Five Star hotel. This summer, that day happens to be Thursday, at the acclaimed Peninsula Beverly Hills. From May 7 through Labor Day, the renowned luxury hotel hosts a weekly Happy Hour from 5-7pm in its newly renovated Roof Garden. During Happy Hour, drinks (cocktails, wines by the glass, beer) are half price, and valet parking is complimentary. Yes, thanks to the Peninsula, the words “discount,” “free,” and “Beverly Hills” can all be used in the same sentence.

You’ll realize that this is another level of Happy Hour from the moment you step out of the elevator and onto the patio. $4 million still goes a long way, and the high end touches, from the JANUS et Cie furniture to the heated limestone floor, all enhance the experience. The Roof Garden is laid out with quiet conversation in mind; on one end is an intimate fire pit area, on the other a mini-walled garden. There’s also a pool, but that’s discreetly screened off and limited to hotel guests. And of course, there are panoramic views of Century City to the west and downtown to the east. Now, before this turns into a Condé Nast Traveler article, on to the cocktails…

L: Pomegranate Mojito | R: Speckled Jalapeño Margarita

First up was the Speckled Jalapeño Margarita, made with Patron Reposado Tequila, fresh citrus juices and Grand Marnier. A jalapeño garnish added a touch of whimsy to the presentation. While I love all things spicy, it’s not to everyone’s liking and in cocktails can detract from their enjoyment. Here, the muddled jalapeño pepper added just enough of a spicy kick to get my attention without being overpowering. The citrus flavors were nicely balanced, slightly tart but mellowed by the smoothness of the cognac. All in all, it’s a nice twist to a familiar drink, and a cocktail well-suited to its surroundings. From the appetizers list, the Mini Halibut Tacos should pair nicely with the margarita.

Not to be outdone was the Pomegranate Mojito, another riff on a classic cocktail. Bacardi rum, pomegranate juice, lime juice, and mint leaves were combined, strained into a glass, and topped with citrus foam. The foam added texture, the pomegranate provided striking color and subtle flavor, and the lime and mint hinted at the original mojito. From taste to presentation, it’s a perfect melding of cocktail and setting and sure to be a favorite throughout the summer. I’d probably select the Citrus-Marinated Kampachi to go with this refreshing cocktail.

Other signature drinks include the Mugatu (Veev Açaí Liqueur, crushed strawberries, limes and mint with a splash of club soda) and the White Peach & Pear Martini (Grey Goose Pear Vodka, white peach pureé and fresh basil). The bar program was created in-house at the Peninsula, and is unique to the Beverly Hills property. The high quality and seasonality of the ingredients also means that not all of the menu items will always be available. Not that I’ll need encouragement, but it’s reason enough for repeat visits to explore the Roof Garden’s latest offerings.

Summer Cocktail Hour
5pm-7pm
Thursdays, May 7 to Labor Day

The Peninsula Beverly Hills
9882 Santa Monica Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
(310) 551-2888
www.peninsula.com

Whiskey & Ping Pong at Tony's

thirstyinla — Mon, 18 May 2009 06:35:54 +0000

“This is the kind of day when you want to be belly-to-belly with a good woman, in a warm bed under a tin roof with the rain beating down and a bottle of good whiskey right next to the bed.”

~ Hunter S. Thompson, The Great Shark Hunt

Friday night saw the soft opening of Tony’s, the latest venture from Cedd Moses and his 213 group. The bar’s location on the southern edge of the Arts District is somewhat remote, especially compared to other 213 ventures located in the heart of downtown. Tony’s is easy enough to spot; the “Tony’s” cocktail sign up top shines like a beacon on 7th street. The Toy Factory and Biscuit Lofts are just a block away on Industrial, and their residents will likely make Tony’s one of their regular watering holes. Rare for downtown is Tony’s attached parking lot, absent a valet and free, which was a nice touch.

Tony's: much darker than this.

Stepping inside Tony’s, we were immediately enveloped in darkness. As our eyes adjusted we saw a pool table off to the left, which saw some regular use throughout the night. Smokers hanging out in the patio also got to play ping pong, which may not have the mystique of pool but will no doubt see plenty of action over time. The bar itself runs the length of the room, its most notable feature being the huge longhorn head mounted above it. Chalkboards above the booths to the right list spirits by group and prices. The reported homages to Hunter S. Thompson were subtle: his photo was mounted by the men’s room, a diorama/shrine was located in the back. If anything, Tony’s itself is a salute to Thompson’s prodigious thirst for whiskey.

It was quiet early on, but by midnight Tony’s started to fill up. The crowd was lively, and though it was busy it never got packed, which was fine for a soft opening. One sour note: the music was blasting at an ear-splitting volume all night. I don’t know to what extent the staff were aware, but having to scream to my boothmates was ridiculous. We noticed other guests cupping their ears and retreating to the patio. Hopefully this gets sorted, it’s the kind of thing that could mar an otherwise enjoyable night of drinks.

Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey.

The cocktail menu was still being finalized on Friday, but with a whiskey list a mile long guests weren’t wanting for options. I was looking forward to trying Stranahan’s, a small batch, 94 proof whiskey made with local ingredients (e.g. water and barley from the Rockies). Stranahan’s is aged in charred, new oak barrels like bourbon, so I ordered an Old Fashioned. The tasting notes from Stranahan’s and elsewhere mentioned wood, smoke, sweetness, caramel and vanilla. It certainly made for an unusual tasting Old Fashioned, quite literally different than any I’ve had before. My fellow imbiber (and Old Fashioned connoisseur) Scot noticed hints of chocolate as well. If you order a Stranahan’s, make sure to check out the bottle; it’s hand-labeled with a batch number, the distilling date, and the distiller’s signature and comment. I neglected to examine the bottle at Tony’s but will definitely do so on my next visit. I finished up with a Knob Creek Manhattan, nicely executed and a good way to close out the night.

Tony’s simultaneously fits into and breaks out of the established Cedd Moses model. It’s yet another update of an old downtown spot, designed with an eclectic eye and meant to evoke the comfort of an old neighborhood bar. But Tony’s is also isolated from other 213 spots, and might indicate that Moses is again anticipating a time when development catches up to his vision of a future downtown LA.

Tony’s
2017 E. 7th St. (E. of Mateo)
Arts District
Los Angeles, CA 90021
(213) 622-5523