My partner in crime for the Crawl was Justin Sloe, DJ extraordinaire and craft beer expert (not necessarily in that order). Media check-in was at Seven Grand, where Sloe and I met up to get our wristbands, map and 6-ounce tasting glasses. The Manila Machine (one of several food vendors selected for the Crawl by LA Weekly’s Jonathan Gold) was parked in front, but we didn’t have time to eat; there was beer waiting for us upstairs!

At Seven Grand, Crawlers queued up for Craftsman and other top breweries.

Seven Grand’s main room was packed with Crawlers sipping pours from brewers such as Allagash and Lost Coast, who were set up along the bar. On the far side of the room was Craftsman Brewing, who poured us their Fireworks Saison. Light and fruity with a bit of funk, the saison was an excellent way to kick off the Crawl. Comment from Justin Sloe (JS): “Perfect warm weather beer with a nice kick of Belgian yeast.”

We made our way to the Jackalope Room, where the Beer Chicks were leading a media tasting of several of their top picks:

• Craftsman Oktoberfest – a sweet and malty follow-up to our first pour of the Crawl. JS, from his Beer Advocate review: “The roasted oat malt shine in the nose and the taste. It’s caramel with a touch of cashew. Slight hop profile fills in with a nice finish.”
• Lost Coast Grand Cru – an Imperial White Ale that the Beer Chicks described as “Blue Moon on acid.” JS: “This was supposed to be a bigger version of their Great White Witbier, a beer I generally don’t like. Surprised to find this more refined and subtle.”
• Allagash Curieux – a Belgian-style Tripel aged for eight weeks in Jim Beam bourbon barrels. The aging adds oak, vanilla and sweet caramel notes to the Tripel’s 11% ABV kick. JS: “The bourbon could easily overpower the spiciness, but they compliment each other well. Big beer.”
• Craftsman Aurora Borealis – the “secret beer” scheduled to be tapped later at Seven Grand, a Belgian Strong Pale Ale that was a bit much for me. Sloe thought it was “too hot for something like this, I’d like to try it in the winter.”

A beer float made with Maui CoCoNut Porter, perfect for Caña's patio.

This being an L.A. bar crawl, we drove to our next stop, Caña Rum Bar. Inside, Crawlers queued up for beer floats made with Maui Brewing Co. CoCoNut Porter, which were served in Caña’s glasses rather than the Beer Crawl tasters. The delicious beer floats, with their great mix of coconut, coffee, chocolate and vanilla flavors, were a perfect fit for the heat wave. JS: “The vanilla ice cream (wish we got the coconut gelato!) went great with the richness of the porter and the coconut shined through.”

Out on the patio, Jolly Pumpkin was out of their Oro de Calabaza, so we went with the Bam Bière, a dry, sour farmhouse ale that Sloe describes as “another funky saison, could drink this all day.” Back at the bar, Caña GM Allan Katz poured us a round of Maui Brewing’s Big Swell IPA, which was hops-forward and malty with a sweet and slightly bitter finish. JS: “Big Swell is a terrific IPA when fresh, and it was. Large hop profile, which I love.”

As we drove down Broadway (where we spotted the LudoTruck parked next to Broadway Bar), we made the executive decision to head straight to Las Perlas. First up for me was Uncommon Brewers Siamese Twin, a Belgian-style Dubbel seasoned with coriander and Thai spices, with notes of lemongrass and lime. Then came Uncommon’s Bacon Brown Ale, which didn’t have the smoke or pepper I was hoping for, but did have some caramel and an odd sourness. JS: “You could taste some savoriness in the finish, but I’d be lying if I said I could taste the swine.”

Guelaguetza's chicken tamale with black mole.

And then, who should we see at the bar but the Mezcal Muse herself, Bricia Lopez. She was at Las Perlas to oversee the Guelaguetza station, which was serving chicken tamales with black mole on the patio. While Sloe and I sipped our beers, Bricia graciously brought over two boxes for us. We gratefully inhaled the delicious meal, a perfectly timed respite that fueled us for the remainder of the Crawl.

But we weren’t quite done with Las Perlas. Eagle Rock Brewery was outside, where co-owner and brewer Jeremy Raub first poured us a round of his crisp and refreshing Manifesto Eagle Rock Wit. The Belgian-style white ale, with its citrus and floral notes, was especially enjoyable on the patio. JS: “One of my faves of the day – he nailed the classic witbier with a lil’ spiciness [you] might find in a saison. Amazing beer.” Next was the Eagle Rock Populist, an herbaceous IPA strong on hops and spice. JS: “Fine representation of this American hop attack classic.”

The Hot Knives, Evan George (L) and Alex Brown (R).

Then it was across the street to the Crawl’s VIP Lounge, located inside the Varnish. As we walked in, The Hot Knives (Alex Brown and Evan George) were pouring their Tonka Bean Porter (actual name here) for eager Crawlers. I would add some tasting notes, but my ADD kicked in when Varnish bartender Devon Tarby called us over and said, “This is for you.”

The Double Black Diamond: so nice, we had it twice.

“This” was the Double Black Diamond, made with Deschutes Black Butte Porter, Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, whole egg, and freshly grated nutmeg. The DBD was a ridiculously good beer cocktail, a drink with a richness and depth of flavor that could be enjoyed in cooler weather, yet went down so nice and easy on Saturday night. Sloe was probably underestimating when he said he “could have had a dozen of these.”

Devon Tarby puts the finishing touches on our Double Black Diamonds.

TAPS Brewmaster Victor Novak was also at the Varnish, pouring directly from hand-labeled bottles. We did get a taste for one of our glasses, but the Double Black Diamonds were calling us again, this time mixed by Varnish GM Chris Bostick. We didn’t try the Picon Bière (TAPS Belgian White, Torani Amer, lemon juice, sugar), but it would have to be a beer cocktail of biblical proportions to surpass the DBD.

Chris Bostick prepares a Picon Bière.

And with that, the Crawl over and it was time for the lights to go down for regular service. Of course, since we were at the Varnish this also meant it was time for a round of cocktails, courtesy of Sloe. Alex Day was now behind the bar, and it was great to introduce him to Sloe, who remarked that he loves to watch someone (of any profession) working at the top of their game. Sloe thought his tequila drink was “delicious,” and even though I missed the cocktail’s name, with its use of mezcal and flamed orange peel I’d guess that it was a Oaxaca Old Fashioned. As for me, Day made a Left Hand (bourbon, sweet vermouth, Campari and mole bitters) that hit all the right flavor notes, something I could still appreciate even after a day of sampling so many great beers.

Cheers to 213 and the Beer Chicks for putting together a successful Beer Crawl. Here’s hoping it’s the first of many!

Death and Company | photo: Grub Street

First in a series recapping the 2010 Manhattan Cocktail Classic.

Fear not, dear reader. Despite the grim title of this post, I had a great night out with friends old and new on the eve of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic. I had flown to New York a day early to celebrate World Cocktail Day as well as toast my First Blogiversary, a date I happened to share with Selena Ricks, author of The Dizzy Fizz. Tweets and texts were exchanged, and plans were made to convene at Death and Company, in the East Village. My first stop was the Waldorf=Astoria, where my friend Scot (The Red Bearded Hipster) was staying while he was in town for a few days on business. After I got settled in, we kicked off the festivities with Manhattans at Peacock Alley, the Waldorf’s lobby bar and restaurant. After a long flight (and what seemed like an even longer shuttle ride), it was exactly what I needed. Then we were off to Death & Co. Once we arrived in the East Village, we were met by Tom, a longtime friend of mine who had moved from LA to New York several years back. Tom was letting me crash at his East Village pad during the MCC, and his central location would prove to be a lifesaver more than once in the days ahead. There was a queue outside Death & Co. as we walked up, but fortunately our friends already had a booth and we were allowed entry through the bar’s trademark wooden door.

We sat down with quite the illustrious group: Lindsey Johnson and Ceci Norman from Lush Life Productions, Mindy Kucan (Anvil), and my blogger twin Selena. And behind the stick? None other than the CIC of the Drunken Army himself, Jason Littrell! My first time at Death & Co., and it already felt like home. The long and narrow space was appointed with sleek tables and a cherry wood ceiling, accented by kerosene lamps and custom chandeliers that added to the warm, intimate vibe.

A quick scan of the detailed menu, and my eye drifted to the Honshu Punch: Yamazaki 12 Year Old Single Malt Whisky, fresh lemon juice, fresh pineapple juice, sugar cane syrup, Deragon’s Bitters, Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters, and club soda. It’s a cocktail right up my alley, wonderfully balanced between the medium-bodied whisky, fruit juices and bitters.

Scot and Tom left it up to me to order our next round, so I went with Old Ironsides, made with Scarlet Ibis Rum, Cruzan Black Strap Rum, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Lazzaroni Amaretto, and Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel Aged Bitters. As many of you know, I like drinks that are bitter and funky, and this one is exactly that. The rums provide a wicked one-two punch, offset by the sweetness of the vermouth and the amaretto. Nice and funky, definitely bitter, very tasty. Or so I thought. Scot and Tom preferred to call Old Ironsides “syrupy.” They also preferred not to finish their drinks, as I recall. Ah, well. Can’t pick winners every time. And there were many, many cocktails yet to come…

Death and Company
433 East 6th Street
New York, NY 10009
(212) 388-0882
www.deathandcompany.com

Painkiller

After a short walk and a much-needed slice at Ray’s, we arrived at Painkiller, the newly-opened tiki bar from Dutch Kills partners Richard Boccato and Giuseppe Gonzalez. Stepping into the bar, it’s immediately apparent that this is not your father’s tiki. The decor reflects the team’s mantra, their belief that “Manhattan is the greatest island on Earth.” As such, Painkiller’s interior is a mash-up between Polynesian culture and 1970s Manhattan: bamboo covers the ceiling and lines the bar, walls, and shelves; in the back room, graffiti tags of “MAHALO” and “OHANA” cover one wall, while tiki masks line the other. The lighting cycles through colors periodically, occasionally lending a garish quality to the space. We noticed that this is not your modern New York cocktail den, either; as it got crowded later, people were actually allowed to stand at the bar.

Scorpion Bowl

Lindsey and Ceci had to call it a night, but Selena and Mindy were already sipping drinks at the bar by the time we arrived. We were joined by Tom’s friend Sang, who’s in the early stages of a spirits project that I hope to share with my readers in the near future. We bellied up to the bar and dove right into a Scorpion Bowl, made with orange juice, lemon juice, orgeat, light rum and pisco. After the “volcano” is filled with Demerara 151 and lit, the bowl is garnished with gardenias and served. Four long straws were handed out and we sipped; male bonding, tiki-style! We assumed there was a kick to it, but as expected it was hard to tell. A refreshing, communal introduction to the Painkiller concept of New York tiki culture.

Next up, Tom and I ordered the Painkiller Mai Tai, an interpretation of the Trader Vic’s classic: house-made orgeat, house-made curaçao, lime juice, Appleton V/X Jamaican rum, Rhum Agricole, and Lemon Hart Demerara rum (overproof). Served in a glass tiki mug and garnished with mint, a lime wedge and an orchid, it certainly has the look of another winner. Unfortunately that wasn’t the case. We couldn’t tell where it went wrong, but even my preference for the funk couldn’t get my palate around this one.

Dark 'n' Frosty

Meanwhile Scot went with a Dark ‘n’ Frosty, a blended Dark ‘n’ Stormy variation made with Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, lime juice, ginger beer, and demerara syrup. By special request it was served in a pineapple. I missed the upfront ginger you get from a Dark ‘n’ Stormy, but after the Mai Tai a sip from that pineapple was heaven in a straw.

Painkiller's back room

As Selena took her leave, she warned us about how strong the drinks were. Needless to say, we didn’t pay attention and ordered a final round: an excellent Singapore Sling made with gin, lime juice, pineapple juice, grenadine, Cointreau, Bénédictine, Cherry Heering, and Angostura bitters. It’s served in a Collins glass, garnished with an orange slice and a cherry. This was the essence of tiki, a superb cocktail balanced between numerous flavors. And as we’d realize in the morning, as potent as it is enjoyable.

In the wee hours, it hadn’t dawned on me that the Manhattan Cocktail Classic had yet to officially begin. All I knew was that I couldn’t have asked for a better way to spend World Cocktail Day and my First Blogiversary.

Painkiller
49 Essex Street
New York NY 10002
(212) 777-TIKI
www.painkillernyc.com

NEXT: THE MCC GALA

Caña is still a members-only venue, but its annual membership fee is now just $20. Included in this fee is membership in the Caña Rum Society, which will host complimentary rum tastings, spirit education, and special events. The program is similar to the well-regarded Seven Grand Whiskey Society, co-created by John during his tenure.

In addition to the libations, the Caña Grand Opening will feature live Latin music from Domingosiete, and food provided by Reggae Chicken, the Jamaican-American fusion food truck. Later on, DJ Ruin and Kenny Hudson take the decks.

I stopped by last weekend with a few friends and introduced them to a proper Dark ‘n’ Stormy, made with Gosling’s Black Seal Rum and ginger beer. Not only did my friends love their cocktails, they also snapped up memberships on the spot. By this time we had the patio to ourselves and enjoyed our drinks while a jazz band played. It was nice to wind down our Saturday night in such a relaxed way, but something tells me this Thursday will be a much livelier experience.

CAÑA RUM BAR GRAND OPENING PARTY
Thursday, April 8, 2010
6pm-2am
Featuring:

• Live Latin music by Domingosiete, 7pm
• Reggae Chicken Food Truck, 8pm
• DJ Ruin & Kenny Hudson, 11pm

Caña Rum Bar
714 W. Olympic Blvd. (at Flower)
Los Angeles, CA, 90015
(213) 745-7090
www.canarumbar.com

Caña Hours: 6pm-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-2am Saturday
Happy Hour: All night Monday, 6-8pm Tue-Fri.

For membership inquiries, contact Caña General Manager Joel Black: joel@thedoheny.com

Your $20 annual membership fee will be donated to relief efforts in Haiti, home of Rhum Barbancourt, widely regarded as one of the best rums produced in Latin America. Proceeds will benefit the United States Foundation for the Children of Haiti (USFCH.org).