It’s been a long time since I’ve done one of these compilations, but it’s not for a lack of exciting things happening in the L.A. cocktail scene. Quite the contrary, in fact; with a slew of bar openings and more on the way, there’s never been a better time to be a cocktail enthusiast in the City of Angels. In recent weeks the amount of coverage has ramped up, which makes it as good a time as any to collect some highlights from the last few months. Here’s hoping it won’t take me a year to post another digest. Cheers!

Last month’s superb Brand X Mixology Issue (Feb. 16, 2011) takes its place alongside Jonathan Gold’s The New Cocktailians (LA Weekly, 2009) and Imbibe Magazine’s A Star is Re-Born (Jul./Aug. 2010) as essential guides to the state of the L.A. cocktail scene.

Among the great reads: a profile of Zahra Bates (Providence); an in-depth look at Harvard & Stone; Q&A’s with Julian Cox (Playa) and Matt Biancaniello (Library Bar); a mixology glossary by Justin Pike (The Tasting Kitchen); and a spirits buying guide.

In a previous Brand X issue, Joshua Lurie detailed an interesting connection between Aidan Demarest, John Coltharp, Joel Black and Brian Summers in La Frite, a Family Tree Nourished by Alcohol (Dec. 6, 2010).

LA Times Magazine continues to pair cocktail recipes and gorgeous photos, such as Apricot Dreams (Dec. 2010), featuring a couple of recipes by Varnish co-owner Eric Alperin. Recent entries in the magazine’s Cocktail Confidential blog covered the opening of Bar Toscana (Dec. 14, 2010) and the long-awaited launch of liquor sales at Silver Lake’s Bar Keeper (Sep. 24, 2010).

Camper English (Alcademics) has been writing a great series of articles for the magazine, including:

• Sherry Reconsidered (Feb. 2011), with recipes by Zahra Bates, Alex Day (Proprietors LLC), and others.
• The Martini Does Not Exist (Jan. 2011)
• Cognac Cocktails (Nov. 2010), with recipes by Damian Windsor (Roger Room).

• After a visit to Test Kitchen, Frank Bruni returned to New York and embarked on a quest for an elusive cocktail in Smitten with a Cocktail Called Frisco (Oct. 28, 2010).
• Matt Biancaniello is featured in the T Magazine article Savory Cocktails (Dec. 8, 2010), which includes a photo by Dylan Ho (The Cocktail Revival).
• In a Sunday Travel article (Feb. 20, 2011), a guide on how to spend 36 Hours in Downtown Los Angeles includes The Varnish, The Edison and Seven Grand.

In his acclaimed new book Living Loaded: Tales of Sex, Salvation and the Pursuit of the Never-Ending Happy Hour, author Dan Dunn (The Imbiber) begins each chapter with one of 16 original cocktail recipes, created by top bartenders such as local stars Vincenzo Marianella (Copa d’Oro) and Steve Livigni (Harvard & Stone), as well as King Cocktail himself, Dale DeGroff.

More love for The Varnish in the March 2011 issue of Bon Appetit, in an article called Hollywood Eats: 10 Ways to Do L.A. Like a Star. Number Five is Polish Off a Perfect Cocktail at The Varnish, and includes a recipe for a Bols Genever cocktail, the Holland Red Light.

In the March 2011 issue of Condé Nast Traveler, Bricia Lopez (Guelaguetza) gives props to her two favorite bars, La Descarga and Las Perlas, as part of the 27 Reasons to Love L.A. Now.

And to bring it all full circle, last week’s LA Weekly cover story featured Jonathan Gold’s list of L.A.’s Best Cocktails (Mar. 3, 2011). The collection of 55 drinks includes classics, signature favorites like the Donaji and Tapping the Admiral, intriguing unknowns like the Faulkner’s Breakfast at Musso & Frank, and left field choices like the Picon Punch in Bakersfield, of all places.

One more for the road: In anticipation of its upcoming Cocktails 2011 book, the April issue of Food & Wine magazine lists America’s Best New Bars, including The Tasting Kitchen and 1886 at The Raymond.

Related posts:

1. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – January 2010
2. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – February 2010
3. All the Booze That's Fit to Print – Summer 2009

Oliver Jones mixes his winning cocktail, the Myrtle Berry Flip.

Oliver Jones has been named the winner of the 2010 Jimmy Barela Award, which honors the legendary bartender who held court at Cole’s Red Car Bar for 65 years. Jones, who can be found behind the stick at Las Perlas and Tengu (Westwood), bested eleven other competitors in a cocktail showdown that took place at The Varnish on Repeal Day.

Myrtle Berry Flip

A native of Oxford, England, Jones has explored cuisines and spirits around the world, thanks to a lifelong love of travel passed down from his parents. Whether he’s drinking genever in Holland or airag (fermented mare’s milk) in Mongolia, Jones is always on the hunt for new ingredients to use in his recipes. He constantly experiments with new types of infusions; “the weirder the better,” as he puts it.

Jones also seeks out forgotten herbs and spices and exotic spirits not yet popularized in the Western world. Case in point is his winning recipe for the Myrtle Berry Flip, which features Tremontis Mirto, a unique Sardinian liqueur made by macerating myrtle berries. Known throughout the Mediterranean since ancient times, the myrtle was used for everything from medicine to wedding rituals. In mythology, the myrtle was associated with Venus and other goddesses. Whether its supposed aphrodisiac properties had anything to do with Jones winning the competition, one can only guess.

To be considered for the competition, cocktail recipes had to use at least 1.5 ounces of Plymouth Gin and use no more than 5 ingredients (excluding garnish). At The Varnish, each competitor had to make four cocktails in 10 minutes: 3 were used for the blind judging, and 1 was for photo ops and guests to sample. The esteemed members of the judging panel were Varnish GM Chris Bostick, Erick Castro (West Coast Brand Ambassador, Plymouth and Beefeater Gins), Jessica Gelt (LA Times), and Jonathan Gold (LA Weekly).

During the three-hour event, an impressive variety of entries were sent out to the judges. While bars from 213 Nightlife were well represented (Bob Nickerson from Cole’s, Matt Wallace of Seven Grand), it was nice to see competitors from all over town (e.g. Buffalo Club’s Giovanni Martinez, Roger Room’s Jason Bran) in the mix.

Pablo Moix went all-out with his West Indies Winter Punch.

Some were familiar names from favorite bars, such as Pablo Moix (La Descarga), Devon Tarby (The Varnish), and Julian Wayser (Caña). Tricia Alley (Providence) and Jennifer Contraveos (SoHo House West Hollywood) were new to me and are on my radar after Sunday. Pablo went all-out with his West Indies Winter Punch, which was served to the judges in a ceramic punch bowl mounted atop a pedestal. Naomi Schimek (First & Hope) presented her Remembrance cocktails in vintage glassware and decorated the serving tray with a pear and rosemary to match her ingredients.

Naomi Schimek served her Remembrance cocktails in vintage glassware.

The competition winners were announced to the public at the Seven Grand Repeal Day Celebration later that night: Jones won $500 for first place, Naomi got a pair of Clippers tickets for placing second (sadly, it’s not a Lakers game), and Garrett McKechnie (1886) took home a Plymouth bar kit for third place. Congrats to the winners, many thanks to everyone who participated, and cheers to Eric Alperin for hosting the competition.

Garrett McKechnie puts the finishing touches on his Molly Pitcher Club Cocktail.

THE MYRTLE BERRY FLIP by Oliver Jones

• 2 oz. Plymouth Gin
• ¾ oz. lemon juice
• 1 egg white
• ¾ oz. Tremontis Mirto
• 3 bar spoons organic Blueberry jam
• Shake and double-strain into a chilled coupe glass.
• Garnish with a sprig of myrtle.

Remembrance

REMEMBRANCE by Naomi Schimek

• ¾ oz. lemon juice
• 1 oz. rosemary syrup
• ¼ oz. bianco vermouth
• 1 oz. pear-infused sherry
• 1½ oz. Plymouth Gin
• Shake and double-strain into a 5 oz. coupe glass.
• Garnish with a sprig of rosemary.

The Molly Pitcher Club Cocktail

THE MOLLY PITCHER CLUB COCKTAIL by Garrett McKechnie

• Dash of Whiskey Barrel Bitters
• ¾ oz. homemade pineapple demerara syrup
• ¾ oz. lemon juice
• 2 oz. Plymouth Gin
• Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
• Garnish with star anise and fresh grated cinnamon.
• Finish with a light absinthe spray.

Related posts:

1. Dec. 5: Jimmy Barela Award and Cocktail Competition, Seven Grand Repeal Day Celebration
2. December 4: Cole’s 103rd Anniversary and Repeal Day Celebration
3. A Hot Time at Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party

Joining me for the imbibing and dining was Laren of Sweet Blog o’ Mine, who was making her first visit to L.A. After a seemingly endless walk from the parking structure we arrived at Union Station’s beautiful Grand Ticket Concourse, a soaring space that’s normally closed off to the public. Despite the size of the room, a stifling heat lingered throughout the party. The sharply-dressed crowd handled it in stride and kept the bartenders and chefs busy right up to the end.

Cruzan Rum Ace of Spades

Our first stop was the Caña Rum Bar station, where GM Allan Katz, bartender Danielle Crouch and Celebrity Barback Ron Dollete (Lush Angeles) were serving up the Cruzan Rum Ace of Spades, featuring Cruzan 9 Spiced Rum and cacao-infused bitters. Easily my favorite cocktail of the night, a wonderful blend of flavors highlighted by vanilla and chocolate notes.

A sizable dance floor was created for guests to groove to DJ Garth Trinidad (KCRW), but with the heat it took a while before guests felt the need to get down. I think a period band would have made more sense for a “speakeasy” party, but maybe that’s just me. Though I appreciated the spacious event layout, we definitely could have used more two tops. With available tables at a premium, guests had to be a little creative with how they enjoyed their food and drink.

Mmm...Pikesville Classic Manhattan...

Luckily we found the Cool Kids Table, where e*star LA, L.A. & O.C. Foodventures and others were tasting the offerings, comparing notes and offering suggestions. Better yet, they had commandeered a table right by Cole’s Red Car Bar, which was stirring up the Pikesville Classic Manhattan: Pikesville Rye, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Angostura bitters and a Luxardo maraschino cherry. I loves me a Manhattan, especially with rye and particularly when the spicy and sweet notes are so well-balanced.

Guests snapped up the Plymouth Fitzgeralds as soon as Chris Bostick made them.

Cole’s was naturally set up back-to-back with The Varnish, where Eric Alperin and Chris Bostick were mixing the Plymouth Fitzgerald, a classic gin sour made with Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon juice and sugar, shaken and served up and with a drizzle of Angostura bitters. The bright, tart cocktails were quickly grabbed by thirsty guests as soon as they were mixed.

Rustic Canyon: black mission figs, roasted chestnuts, burrata, saba and toast.

Nearby, Rustic Canyon and Providence were set up next to each other, with very different, delectable tastings. First up was Rustic Canyon, with its healthy-sized serving of black mission figs, roasted chestnuts, burrata, saba and toast.

Providence: hamachi with nuoc cham and beef tendon.

Providence’s hamachi with nuoc cham and beef tendon was subtle and refined, a nice contrast to the hearty Rustic Canyon dish. Not so successful was First & Hope, whose butternut panna cotta was topped with a crab salad so oversalted I couldn’t finish it. Thankfully Neal Fraser (Grace) came to our rescue by serving us his melt-in-your-mouth braised pork and squash flan, with a smoked sage jus. Next to Grace was Lazy Ox Canteen and its bite-sized yellowtail crudo tacos with avocado, crème fraiche and white soy. I also tried Jar’s pork croissant with mustard sauce, but it had a tough act to follow after Grace and Lazy Ox.

Jonathan Gold

Then it was time for a few words from Jonathan Gold, who thanked everyone and encouraged the continued support of Zócalo.

(L to R) Zócalo founder Gregory Rodriguez and his staff: Laura Villalpando, Swati Pandey and Dulce Vasquez.

Gold introduced Zócalo founder Gregory Rodriguez and his staff: Laura Villalpando, Swati Pandey and Dulce Vasquez. By this time the energy (read: booze) had kicked in and the dance floor began to fill.

Rivera's Gazpacho Blanco

But there were still a few more stops to make and tastes to try, starting with Rivera’s Gazpacho Blanco, a shot of pre-Columbian white gazpacho that went down so nicely I had to grab another one to go.

Spiced PaQui Tequila Daisy

A few steps away was Las Perlas, continuing the Latin theme with a Spiced PaQui Tequila Daisy: PaQui Silver Tequila, fresh lime juice, organic agave nectar, fresh juiced jalapenos, basil, and cucumber. The bartender asked us how spicy we wanted them, and she wasn’t messing around when we asked for them to be hot, just how we like ‘em. Seven Grand was serving a selection of Chivas Regal 12-Year Scotch Highballs, but we passed.

Then it was back to where we began the night, and one last Ace of Spades. With the party winding down, we were all dressed up with nowhere to go. A trip to the real Varnish seemed to be in order, and despite being exhausted from jet lag, Laren was a trouper and we headed out into the night.

Related posts:

1. October 9: Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
2. October 10: Jonathan Gold's Union Station Cocktail Party
3. Oliver Jones Named Winner of the 2010 Jimmy Barela Award

Just two weeks after the inaugural L.A. Craft Beer Crawl, Jonathan Gold and 213 are teaming up once again for the second annual Union Station Speakeasy Cocktail Party, taking place this Saturday, October 9 in the station’s historic Grand Concourse. The celebration of downtown L.A.’s “speakeasy style” will feature craft cocktails by 213, gourmet bites from some of L.A.’s best restaurants, and beats by Garth Trinidad (KCRW).

Proceeds benefit Zócalo Public Square, a Los Angeles-based nonprofit that provides a nonpartisan forum to prominent thinkers and doers via lectures, panels, salons, screenings, webzine and annual conferences.

Specialty cocktails will include the Varnish’s Plymouth Fitzgerald, a gin sour made with Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon juice and sugar, shaken and served up with a drizzle of Angostura bitters. Not to be outdone is Caña, with a spiced rum daiquiri called the Ace of Spades, a tribute to the Ace of Clubs’ namesake cocktail.

For more information and to purchase tickets online, visit www.zocalopublicsquare.org.

Jonathan Gold’s Union Station Cocktail Party
Saturday, October 9, 2010
7pm-11pm

Featuring:

• Cocktails by 213 – Caña, Cole’s, Las Perlas, Seven Grand, The Varnish
• Gourmet bites by Comme Ça, First & Hope, Grace, Jar, Lazy Ox, Providence, Rivera, Rustic Canyon, Street
• DJ Garth Trinidad (KCRW)

TIckets:

• $185 per person
• Non-Profit Employee Rate: $150
• Young Professionals’ Rate (under 30 years old): $125
• Corporate Packages available
• Proceeds benefit Zócalo Public Square

Union Station
Grand Concourse
800 N. Alameda St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Related posts:

1. A Hot Time at Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
2. October 10: Jonathan Gold's Union Station Cocktail Party
3. June 27-28: The Pátron Tequila Epicurean Express Arrives in LA

My partner in crime for the Crawl was Justin Sloe, DJ extraordinaire and craft beer expert (not necessarily in that order). Media check-in was at Seven Grand, where Sloe and I met up to get our wristbands, map and 6-ounce tasting glasses. The Manila Machine (one of several food vendors selected for the Crawl by LA Weekly’s Jonathan Gold) was parked in front, but we didn’t have time to eat; there was beer waiting for us upstairs!

At Seven Grand, Crawlers queued up for Craftsman and other top breweries.

Seven Grand’s main room was packed with Crawlers sipping pours from brewers such as Allagash and Lost Coast, who were set up along the bar. On the far side of the room was Craftsman Brewing, who poured us their Fireworks Saison. Light and fruity with a bit of funk, the saison was an excellent way to kick off the Crawl. Comment from Justin Sloe (JS): “Perfect warm weather beer with a nice kick of Belgian yeast.”

We made our way to the Jackalope Room, where the Beer Chicks were leading a media tasting of several of their top picks:

• Craftsman Oktoberfest – a sweet and malty follow-up to our first pour of the Crawl. JS, from his Beer Advocate review: “The roasted oat malt shine in the nose and the taste. It’s caramel with a touch of cashew. Slight hop profile fills in with a nice finish.”
• Lost Coast Grand Cru – an Imperial White Ale that the Beer Chicks described as “Blue Moon on acid.” JS: “This was supposed to be a bigger version of their Great White Witbier, a beer I generally don’t like. Surprised to find this more refined and subtle.”
• Allagash Curieux – a Belgian-style Tripel aged for eight weeks in Jim Beam bourbon barrels. The aging adds oak, vanilla and sweet caramel notes to the Tripel’s 11% ABV kick. JS: “The bourbon could easily overpower the spiciness, but they compliment each other well. Big beer.”
• Craftsman Aurora Borealis – the “secret beer” scheduled to be tapped later at Seven Grand, a Belgian Strong Pale Ale that was a bit much for me. Sloe thought it was “too hot for something like this, I’d like to try it in the winter.”

A beer float made with Maui CoCoNut Porter, perfect for Caña's patio.

This being an L.A. bar crawl, we drove to our next stop, Caña Rum Bar. Inside, Crawlers queued up for beer floats made with Maui Brewing Co. CoCoNut Porter, which were served in Caña’s glasses rather than the Beer Crawl tasters. The delicious beer floats, with their great mix of coconut, coffee, chocolate and vanilla flavors, were a perfect fit for the heat wave. JS: “The vanilla ice cream (wish we got the coconut gelato!) went great with the richness of the porter and the coconut shined through.”

Out on the patio, Jolly Pumpkin was out of their Oro de Calabaza, so we went with the Bam Bière, a dry, sour farmhouse ale that Sloe describes as “another funky saison, could drink this all day.” Back at the bar, Caña GM Allan Katz poured us a round of Maui Brewing’s Big Swell IPA, which was hops-forward and malty with a sweet and slightly bitter finish. JS: “Big Swell is a terrific IPA when fresh, and it was. Large hop profile, which I love.”

As we drove down Broadway (where we spotted the LudoTruck parked next to Broadway Bar), we made the executive decision to head straight to Las Perlas. First up for me was Uncommon Brewers Siamese Twin, a Belgian-style Dubbel seasoned with coriander and Thai spices, with notes of lemongrass and lime. Then came Uncommon’s Bacon Brown Ale, which didn’t have the smoke or pepper I was hoping for, but did have some caramel and an odd sourness. JS: “You could taste some savoriness in the finish, but I’d be lying if I said I could taste the swine.”

Guelaguetza's chicken tamale with black mole.

And then, who should we see at the bar but the Mezcal Muse herself, Bricia Lopez. She was at Las Perlas to oversee the Guelaguetza station, which was serving chicken tamales with black mole on the patio. While Sloe and I sipped our beers, Bricia graciously brought over two boxes for us. We gratefully inhaled the delicious meal, a perfectly timed respite that fueled us for the remainder of the Crawl.

But we weren’t quite done with Las Perlas. Eagle Rock Brewery was outside, where co-owner and brewer Jeremy Raub first poured us a round of his crisp and refreshing Manifesto Eagle Rock Wit. The Belgian-style white ale, with its citrus and floral notes, was especially enjoyable on the patio. JS: “One of my faves of the day – he nailed the classic witbier with a lil’ spiciness [you] might find in a saison. Amazing beer.” Next was the Eagle Rock Populist, an herbaceous IPA strong on hops and spice. JS: “Fine representation of this American hop attack classic.”

The Hot Knives, Evan George (L) and Alex Brown (R).

Then it was across the street to the Crawl’s VIP Lounge, located inside the Varnish. As we walked in, The Hot Knives (Alex Brown and Evan George) were pouring their Tonka Bean Porter (actual name here) for eager Crawlers. I would add some tasting notes, but my ADD kicked in when Varnish bartender Devon Tarby called us over and said, “This is for you.”

The Double Black Diamond: so nice, we had it twice.

“This” was the Double Black Diamond, made with Deschutes Black Butte Porter, Gosling’s Black Seal Rum, whole egg, and freshly grated nutmeg. The DBD was a ridiculously good beer cocktail, a drink with a richness and depth of flavor that could be enjoyed in cooler weather, yet went down so nice and easy on Saturday night. Sloe was probably underestimating when he said he “could have had a dozen of these.”

Devon Tarby puts the finishing touches on our Double Black Diamonds.

TAPS Brewmaster Victor Novak was also at the Varnish, pouring directly from hand-labeled bottles. We did get a taste for one of our glasses, but the Double Black Diamonds were calling us again, this time mixed by Varnish GM Chris Bostick. We didn’t try the Picon Bière (TAPS Belgian White, Torani Amer, lemon juice, sugar), but it would have to be a beer cocktail of biblical proportions to surpass the DBD.

Chris Bostick prepares a Picon Bière.

And with that, the Crawl over and it was time for the lights to go down for regular service. Of course, since we were at the Varnish this also meant it was time for a round of cocktails, courtesy of Sloe. Alex Day was now behind the bar, and it was great to introduce him to Sloe, who remarked that he loves to watch someone (of any profession) working at the top of their game. Sloe thought his tequila drink was “delicious,” and even though I missed the cocktail’s name, with its use of mezcal and flamed orange peel I’d guess that it was a Oaxaca Old Fashioned. As for me, Day made a Left Hand (bourbon, sweet vermouth, Campari and mole bitters) that hit all the right flavor notes, something I could still appreciate even after a day of sampling so many great beers.

Cheers to 213 and the Beer Chicks for putting together a successful Beer Crawl. Here’s hoping it’s the first of many!

Related posts:

1. 213 Nightlife and The Beer Chicks Present LA Craft Beer Crawl, Launch 8th Street Bottle Shop
2. September 25: L.A. Craft Beer Crawl in Downtown Los Angeles
3. December 18: Holiday Pub Crawl with Bar Chloe, Copa d’Oro, The Yard

The Beer Chicks will be signing books at Golden Gopher. | Photo: 213

Proving that his interests go beyond great cocktails and fine spirits, 213 Proprietor Cedd Moses is teaming up with The Beer Chicks (Christina Perozzi and Hallie Beaune) to present the inaugural L.A. Craft Beer Crawl, taking place in downtown Los Angeles on Saturday, September 25th. For the price of one ticket, Crawlers will get unlimited samples of 50 craft beers, including Allagash, Brouwerij West, Craftsman, Dogfish Head, Eagle Rock, Jolly Pumpkin, Lost Coast, Stone, Telegraph, Unibroue and many more. The Crawl will be hosted at 213 bars Seven Grand, Cole’s, The Varnish, Las Perlas, Casey’s, Golden Gopher, Broadway Bar and Caña. The beer selection is curated by Perozzi and Beaune, authors of The Naked Pint: An Unadulterated Guide to Craft Beer.

The Crawl begins at Casey’s Irish Pub, where Crawlers will get a 6-ounce tasting glass, wristband and map (sure to come in handy after a few samples). Each 213 venue will offer its own distinct vibe and host different craft breweries: Seven Grand will pour barrel-aged beers with scotch and bourbon enhanced notes; The Beer Chicks will sign books at Golden Gopher; Pulitzer Prize winning food writer Jonathan Gold will host the VIP Room at the Varnish, where guests can enjoy Cole’s French Dip sandwiches paired with top German-style taps, as well as beer cocktails and a meet and greet with brewers.

To help Crawlers soak up the suds, Gold has selected some of L.A.’s top gourmet food trucks, including Grilled Cheese Truck, LudoTruck and Manila Machine.

The Jameson Stage at Casey's. | Photo: 213

Included in the ticket is admission to an afterparty at Casey’s, featuring live music and a dozen craft pints.

LA Craft Beer Crawl
Saturday, September 25, 2010
3pm-8pm
lacraftbeercrawl.com

Visit the event’s Facebook page and follow its Twitter feed for updated info and participating breweries.

Tickets are available online only, at lacraftbeercrawl.eventbrite.com.

• Early Bird Special: $39
• General Admission: $49
• VIP: $89

A portion of the proceeds will go to Heal the Bay, a nonprofit environmental organization dedicated to making Southern California coastal waters and watersheds, including Santa Monica Bay, safe, healthy and clean.

Update 9/17: Early Bird tickets have sold out, General Admission and VIP tickets are still available.

Update 9/22: VIP tickets have sold out. General Admission tickets are still available.

Update 9/24: General Admission tickets have sold out.

Related posts:

1. 213 Nightlife and The Beer Chicks Present LA Craft Beer Crawl, Launch 8th Street Bottle Shop
2. Tapping into the Inaugural L.A. Craft Beer Crawl
3. June 6: Chaya Downtown Launches Second Annual Japanese Beer Garden

Selected nominees are highlighted below. For a complete list of nominees, visit: www.jpfawards.com/nominees

Congrats to all the finalists, and good luck in May!

2010 James Beard Foundation Awards Nominees (Partial List)

BOOK AWARDS
For cookbooks published in English in 2009.

BEVERAGE

Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology
by Randall Grahm
(University of California Press)

The King of Vodka: The Story of Pyotr Smirnov and the Upheaval of an Empire
by Linda Himelstein
(HarperBusiness)

World Whisky
by Charles Maclean
(DK Publishing)

JOURNALISM AWARDS
For articles published in English in 2009.

CRAIG CLAIBORNE DISTINGUISHED RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
“Sauced,” “Hot Birria, Cold Cerveza,” “Hare Today”

Patric Kuh
Los Angeles
“Border Crossing,” “Peru Calling,” “The Classic”

Jason Sheehan
Westword
“White on White,” “Wonderland,” “Mourning”

WRITING ON SPIRITS, WINE, OR BEER

Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl
Minnesota Monthly
“Chardonnay Uncorked”

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
“The New Cocktailians”

Lettie Teague
Food & Wine
“Is Grüner a Great Wine or a Groaner”

Restaurant and Chef Awards

OUTSTANDING CHEF AWARD
A working chef in America whose career has set national industry standards and who has served as an inspiration to other food professionals. Candidates must have been working as chefs for at least the past 5 years.

José Andrés
Minibar
Washington, D.C.

Tom Colicchio
Craft
NYC

Gary Danko
Restaurant Gary Danko
San Francisco

Suzanne Goin
Lucques
Los Angeles

Charles Phan
The Slanted Door
San Francisco

BEST CHEFS IN AMERICA
Chefs who have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions. Each candidate may be employed by any kind of dining establishment and must have been a working chef for at least the past 5 years. The 3 most recent years must have been spent in the region where the chef is presently working.

Best Chef: Pacific (CA, HI)

Michael Cimarusti
Providence
Los Angeles

Jeremy Fox
Ubuntu
Napa, CA

David Kinch
Manresa
Los Gatos, CA

Matt Molina
Osteria Mozza
Los Angeles

Michael Tusk
Quince
San Francisco

OUTSTANDING WINE AND SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL AWARD
A winemaker, brewer, or spirits professional who has had a significant impact on the wine and spirits industry nationwide. Candidates must have been in the profession for at least 5 years.

Merry Edwards
Merry Edwards Wines
Sebastopol, CA

Paul Grieco
Hearth
NYC

Garrett Oliver
The Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY

John Shafer and Doug Shafer
Shafer Vineyards
Napa, CA

Julian P. Van Winkle, III
Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery
Louisville, KY

Related posts:

1. October 19: The James Beard Foundation L.A. Chef Invitational
2. The Varnish and Las Perlas Finalists for 2010 AIA Restaurant Design Awards
3. Tales of the Cocktail 2009 Spirit Award Nominees Announced

An occasional roundup of L.A. cocktail culture in various media.

Just in time for Super Bowl Sunday, LA Times Magazine featured recipes for four classic tiki cocktails, “reimagined for a new generation.” Love the retro-style artwork, too.

On February 11, an LA Times Food article included a profile of Modern Spirits (TRU Vodka, found at some of LA’s best cocktail bars) and the ups and downs of being an artisan distillery.

~

Two articles in the much-discussed Los Angeles issue of Saveur (#127, Feb) focused on LA’s cocktail culture:

Drink City is a solid list of cocktail destinations that includes The Edison, Seven Grand, Rivera, Roger Room, and Copa d’Oro. The Varnish wasn’t listed, but was instead mentioned in a sidebar on the Cole’s-Philippe’s French Dip rivalry.

In Spirits of Polynesia, Jeff Berry takes a look at the wonderful Tiki-Ti, affectionately calling the owners “textbook examples of how not to succeed in the bar business.”

Also in the Saveur issue are cocktail recipes for Rivera’s Barbacoa and Tiki-Ti’s Cuba Kola and Puka Punch.

~

On Fat Tuesday, The Edison announced that Joe Brooke (named America’s Best Bartender and formerly at Copa d’Oro) would assume the role of Director of Spirits, a position formerly held by Aidan Demerest, now consulting for the cocktail program at the upcoming First & Hope.

The very next day, cocktail enthusiasts were a-Twitter over a Daily Dish post that said that Audrey Saunders had ended her Tar Pit partnership with Mark Peel. According to the LA Times, Peel said that Saunders “did all the training and designing for the original menu, and I think she did a great job. We just came to a parting of the ways.” It was announced that Marcos Tello would head the Tar Pit bar, until word came later that day that he was also leaving. Squid Ink followed up with a confirmation that Marcos had indeed resigned from the Tar Pit to return to The Varnish as well as consult on the aforementioned First & Hope.

Speaking of Squid Ink and First & Hope, Caroline on Crack posted a sneak preview of the forthcoming supper club, scheduled to open in mid-March. The preview also includes a recipe for the Champagne Julep, an upscale take on the classic mint julep.

A week after the dust had settled at the Tar Pit, the LA Times published a review by S. Irene Virbila. Tar Pit got two stars from Miss Irene, who gave it props for the cocktails but thought the kitchen was inconsistent.

On Thursday, February 25th, Alex Day worked his last shift at New York’s renowned Death & Company. What does this have to do with L.A. cocktail culture you ask? Well, according to his interview with the Village Voice, Alex is heading to Los Angeles to open a bar with Death & Co. owner David Kaplan. New York’s loss is L.A.’s gain; stay tuned, friends.

Last week, the LA Weekly published Jonathan Gold’s 99 Things to Eat in L.A. Before You Die, a list that covers everything from “fugu to foie gras, pizza to panuchos.” Best of all, you can also have a great cocktail when you check off a few of these must-eat dishes:

• Rivera’s tortillas
• Musso & Frank’s Welsh rarebit
• Cole’s French Dip
• Akasha’s quinoa with edamame
• Comme Ca’s cheeseburger
• Michael Cimarusti’s squid with piquillo peppers and pig’s ear
• Hungry Cat’s lobster roll

Mezcal and tequila fans have been eagerly anticipating the debut of 213 Downtown’s Las Perlas, and according to blogdowntown, the opening could happen as early as today. The post describes the interior in detail, noting that Ricki Kline is especially happy with how his latest design for 213 turned out.

Related posts:

1. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – January 2010
2. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – Fall 2009
3. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – March 2011

Before recapping a busy January 2010 (see below) let’s take one last look at December 2009 and the decade that was.

In its Dec. 29th edition, the NY Times published A Decade of Invention and Reinvention, its look at mixology trends of the decade. Topping the list is the Gin-Gin Mule, the gin-based take on the Moscow Mule created by Audrey Saunders (Pegu Club). It’s now on cocktail menus across the country, and here in L.A. you can get the definitive version at Saunders’ Tar Pit. Another new classic is PDT’s Benton Old-Fashioned, created in 2007 by Don Lee. New York Magazine posted the PDT recipe in its April 14, 2008 issue. LAist recently posted the recipe for a local version, Little Dom’s Bacon Old Fashioned. Finally, The Varnish is name-checked in the “Bartender’s Choice” trend, a cocktail menu option that’s resulted from bartenders raising “their level of skill and scholarship” and customers having “an increased sense of adventure” and a willingness to put their drink choices in bartenders’ hands.

Trident - The Tar Pit

In his Best Dishes of 2009, Jonathan Gold says an Aviation is always his first drink of the evening at The Varnish, “a civilized temple of spirits where bliss is measured out by the dram.” Mr. Gold also lists the beer float at Golden State, a “mind-blowing way to complete a meal, all cold creaminess and explosive fizz, innocent sweetness and a blast of pungent, hoppy bitterness.”

Just in time for New Year’s Eve, the LA Times published an article on sherry cocktails, including recipes for the Montresor & Fortunato (the Roger Room), the Golden Boy (the Bazaar), and the Trident (the Tar Pit).

Speaking of December 31st, if you want to relive some of the downtown festivities (or just need help remembering), the LA Weekly posted a NYE Downtown Crawl slideshow that includes images from The Varnish, Cole’s, and Seven Grand.

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And, now…on to 2010!

The January 2010 issue of LA Times Magazine features several versions of sangrita to pair with high-end tequila, including recipes from Julian Cox and Jennifer Stockley.

“I travel the whole U.S. right now with what I’m doing, and probably the most exciting (cocktail) scene at the moment is in Los Angeles.” ~ Charlotte Voisey

Mutineer #9

The preceding quote can be found in the current issue of Mutineer Magazine (#9, Jan-Feb), in an interview with Portfolio Ambassador Charlotte Voisey (William Grant & Sons). She also says Los Angeles is “just on fire” and notes the city’s “great history during Prohibition.” Also in the issue, blogger Marvin Gapultos (Burnt Lumpia) offers an in-depth look at at The Pharmacie, the roving underground cocktail party. The article is accompanied by original paintings from Brent Estabrook.

Musso & Frank recently celebrated its 90th birthday, and to mark the occasion NPR’s Weekend Edition Sunday aired this story on January 3rd. Later that week, the LA Times published an interview with Musso & Frank owner Jordan Jones, who discusses some of the changes coming to the venerable Hollywood restaurant now that his family has sole control of the business. Not to be missed is a related article that profiles Musso’s bartender Ruben Rueda.

On January 10, the NY Times posted a review of the Roger Room, describing it as “a place of reverse snobbery, where you go to avoid running into celebrities and their ear-pierced bodyguards.” The article then notes that Cameron Diaz and Fiona Apple are regulars, which is not only contradictory but, frankly, somewhat disappointing.

Each year, the online magazine StarChefs names its Rising Stars, up-and-coming chefs and culinary professionals who “represent the vanguard of the contemporary American dining scene.” On January 11, StarChefs announced its 2010 Los Angeles-San Diego Rising Stars, including mixologists Eric Alperin (The Varnish) and Julian Cox (Rivera).

Also this month, StarChefs posted its overview of the Los Angeles mixology scene, with cocktail recipes:

• Gin Fix by Eric Alperin (The Varnish)
• Fields of Gold by Joel Black (The Doheny)
• Whisky Smash by Tristan Price (Café Pierre)
• Four Aces by Damian Windsor (The Roger Room)

Given the amount of praise he’s received in the last several months, Matthew Biancaniello (the Roosevelt Hotel) might have to start preparing his own Rising Star speech. On January 15, the Daily Dish posted a feature on his latest creations for the Library Bar: cocktails served in eggshells. To go with the article, the Times includes his Indian Summer cocktail recipe.

Last week, LA Times Magazine posted a preview of La Descarga, the rum-centric bar set to open on Western this Tuesday, February 2nd. Shortly thereafter, Eater LA and Thrillist had sneak peeks of their own online. The drink menu is overseen by Pablo Moix (Portfolio Mixologist for Bacardi USA) and Steve Livigni (the Doheny), featuring cocktails such as Papa’s Daiquiri, Tapping the Admiral, and the Bad Spaniard. The “secret entrance” and reservations-only policy (made via e-mail) are reminiscent of San Francisco’s Bourbon & Branch; here’s hoping the cocktails justify the comparisons.

Food & Wine Feb. 2010

The January 29th issue of LA Weekly features Steve Julian’s profile of Julian Cox. You can listen to interview excerpts at Offramp on KPCC.

The latest issue of Food & Wine (Feb. 2010) features a “Invent Your Own Cocktail” party, with cocktails by Eric Alperin and food by Jason Travi (Fraiche). Elsewhere in the issue, “The New Cocktail Boutique” rounds up the new breed of cocktail shop, including L.A.’s own Bar Keeper. And don’t miss the Belgian beers paired with Asian dishes from the upcoming Lukshon, courtesy of Sang Yoon (Father’s Office).

Related posts:

1. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – February 2010
2. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – March 2011
3. All the Booze That's Fit to Print – Summer 2009

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When it comes to food and drink writing in Los Angeles, Jonathan Gold is “the Man” and has the Pulitzer Prize to prove it. On October 10, he’s hosting Jonathan Gold’s Union Station Cocktail Party, a fundraiser for Zócalo Public Square, a non-profit organization that builds community by broadening access to civic discourse. According to Zócalo, this special event “will explore L.A.’s new cocktail moment with food and drink tastings and discussion.”

Tickets cost $300 per person, or $500 per couple. If the hit to your wallet seems a bit much, consider the worthy cause, the high-powered kitchen and bar talent, and Union Station’s beautiful Art Deco setting.

Jonathan Gold’s Union Station Cocktail Party
Saturday, October 10, 2009
7:00pm
Official Event Website

Union Station
Grand Ticket Concourse
800 N. Alameda St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Tickets: $300/guest, $500/couple

Featuring:

• Jonathan Gold (LA Weekly)
• Eric Alperin (The Varnish)
• Michael Cimarusti (Providence)

Tastings by: Church & State, Comme Ca, CUT, Mozza, Palate, Providence, Rivera

Custom paired cocktails by: Cedd Moses (213 Downtown)

Please visit the Zócalo website for more information.

Related posts:

1. October 9: Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
2. A Hot Time at Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
3. October 21: Late Night Menu Launch Party at The Yard