Start doing your liver stretches, friends. Eveleigh recently concluded the Fourth Round of its Guest Bartender Series, just enough time for thirsty Angelenos to catch their breath before another bar debuts a guest bartender series of its own. On Wednesday, May 23, The Spare Room launches An Evening of Tiki, a monthly series of “island-inspired cocktails and music,” featuring guest bartenders from LA and across the country. It’s a stellar lineup that includes several Tales of the Cocktail 2012 Spirited Awards finalists, starting with The Spare Room itself, one of the top ten finalists in the World’s Best Hotel Bar category.

Joining Beverage Director Naomi Schimek for the first night (assuming they survive their Bay to Breakers run this weekend) are Julian Cox (Rivera, a Spirited Awards finalist for Best Restaurant Bar) and Zachary Patterson (Bagatelle). June 20th brings Clover Club bartender and Speed Rack co-founder Ivy Mix, a Spirited Awards finalist for American Bartender of the Year.

Marcos Tello gets his tiki on at 320 Main.

On July 18th, two of the principals from last year’s excellent Tiki Nights at 320 Main are reunited when Marcos Tello (Tello Demarest Liquid Assets) teams up with 320 Main owner Jason Schiffer for a night of “Pirate Tiki.” New York is in the house again on August 15th, when Schimek welcomes Richie Boccato of PKNY, a 2011 Spirited Awards nominee for World’s Best New Cocktail Bar.

Rocky Yeh will make The Spare Room the happiest place on Earth in September.

The series concludes on September 12th with Seattle’s Rocky Yeh, who will bring it home as only a member of the U.S. Tiki Team can.

It’s not even Memorial Day yet, and the Summer of 2012 is about to begin in earnest. Okole maluna!

An Evening of Tiki
Island-Inspired Cocktails and Music
Beginning Wednesday, May 23, 2012
9pm
Guest bartenders:

• Julian Cox & Zachary Patterson (May 23)
• Ivy Mix (June 20)
• Marcos Tello & Jason Schiffer (July 18)
• Richie Boccato (August 15)
• Rocky Yeh (September 12)

The Spare Room
Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel (Mezzanine Level)
7000 Hollywood Blvd. (at Orange)
(323) 769-7296
www.thompsonhotels.com/hotels/la/hollywood-roosevelt/drink/the-spare-room

Julian Cox

Pacific Standard Time has also inspired Art as an Appetizer, a collaboration between chef John Sedlar, artist Ron Cooper (founder of Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal), and mixologist Julian Cox. The trio worked together to create a unique PST-inspired Secret Menu available now at Sedlar’s Playa and Rivera restaurants. To celebrate the launch of the Secret Menu, Playa hosted an afternoon gathering that welcomed an eclectic mix of media, foodies and art enthusiasts, and three of the iconic Southern California artists who inspired the Secret Menu: Cooper, Oscar Castillo and Larry Bell.

Ball Drop

The event began with Cox’s PST-inspired drinks, each one made with a different Del Maguey mezcal. First up was the Ball Drop: Del Maguey Vida, London dry gin, fresh lime, yuzu tincture, topped with a dusting of cayenne. Based on a very unscientific poll, this seemed to be the consensus favorite cocktail of the afternoon. Cooperʼs 1969 Ball Drop video is part of the Collection of the University Art Museum Art Video Archive at Cal State Long Beach University.

'47 Chevy in Wilmington, CA

For visual appeal, the winner was the tiki-esque ‘47 Chevy in Wilmington, CA: Del Maguey Minero, agave nectar, St. Vincent Orgeat, passion fruit, fresh lemon and lavender air. Cox evokes Castilloʼs 1972 photo with the drink’s matching yellow color as well as the contrasting white foam-dark pansies to symbolize the lowrider’s whitewall tires. ’47 Chevy in Wilmington, CA is featured in Icons of the Invisible: Oscar Castillo at UCLA’s Fowler Museum.

Untitled

Cox said that when he saw Bellʼs 1964 Untitled glass cube, he immediately thought, “Manhattan.” The result is my favorite of the three PST cocktails, a delicious aromatic made with Del Maguey Chichicapa, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, oloroso sherry and grapefruit peel. Bell’s Untitled is featured in the Phenomenal: California Light, Space, Surface exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art, San Diego.

Ron Cooper

After we were seated, Cooper gave a quick primer on mezcal, talked about art as food for the soul and food as art, then ceremoniously poured some Del Maguey on the floor to make a cruciform. Sedlar then spoke about his process for creating the PST menu. He said he was grateful for the opportunity to look at any PST artwork that he wanted, before he chose three pieces that he felt were not only representative of PST, but could provide the necessary culinary inspiration.

Crudo assortment, inspired by Beatrice Wood's "Fish Platter."

The meal began with a beautifully arranged crudo assortment of fresh and smoked seafood with kumquats, Fresno chiles, lime, red seaweed, and a copita of Chichicapa mezcal (sipped in a toast with Cooper). The gorgeous appetizer was inspired by Beatrice Woodʼs Fish Platter (1970), featured in the Beatrice Wood: Career Woman-Drawings, Paintings, Vessels, and Objects exhibition at the Santa Monica Museum of Art.

Main course, inspired by Ed Ruschaʼs "Los Angeles County Museum of Art on Fire."

The main course was inspired by Ed Ruschaʼs Los Angeles County Museum of Art on Fire (1965-1968): fire–grilled breast of chicken with Cobb salad quemado, goat cheese and “incendiary” salsa. The moist, perfectly-cooked chicken represents the “burning” LACMA; piercing the accompanying poached egg and swirling in the bacon and salsa completes the fiery illusion. Ruschaʼs painting is featured in the Crosscurrents in LA Painting and Sculpture 1950-1970 exhibition at The Getty Center.

Sorbet "splashes," inspired by "Beach Trash Burning."

Dessert was a colorful trio of sorbet “splashes” of roasted pineapple mezcal, poblano chile lime and hibiscus pomegranate, served with a shortbread cracker. The lime far and away eclipses the others, a wonderful mix of tart and spice that I didn’t want to end. The dessert was inspired by Carlos Almarazʼs Beach Trash Burning (1982), a painting featured in the Mapping Another LA: Chicano Art Movement exhibition at the Fowler Museum, UCLA.

The Secret Menu is available now through March 31st at both Playa and Rivera to customers who show PST museum proof of admission, or ask for the “Pacific Standard Time Secret Menu.” The menu is available during dinner only and is listed at $37 for three courses, although each course is available individually as well.

For more photos from the Art as an Appetizer event, visit the Thirsty in LA Facebook page.

For the first time, dozens of restaurants are also offering selected cocktails along with their Restaurant Week menus. Although they aren’t included in the prix fixe menus, many of these drinks will be discounted from their regular prices throughout Restaurant Week. After the jump, check out a few of the cocktails that will be featured at participating restaurants.

To help you navigate the Restaurant Week list, Caroline on Crack has a great roundup of restaurants with top notch cocktail menus. For a full list of restaurants, menus, and to make reservations, visit the dineLA Restaurant Week website.

dineLA Restaurant Week
January 22-27 and January 29-February 3, 2012
Citywide
www.dineLARestaurantWeek.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjcIMYvXAAY

Bar | Kitchen is already one of downtown LA’s best dining and drinking bargains. And its dineLA menu is hard to beat: at the Premier Dining ($34) level, Executive Chef Vahan Tokmadjian is featuring dinner options such as roasted veal sweetbread, rabbit and butterscotch pot de crème. To pair with dinner, B|K has a flight of three mini-cocktails:

• New Escobar: reposado tequila, Amaro Zucca, lime, grenadine, dash of ginger ale.
• Dead Meridian Punch: rye, arrack, lime, grapefruit, celery bitters, seltzer.
• Property Tax: bonded apple brandy, Amaro Nonino, lemon, maple, Angostura Bitters.

Bar | Kitchen
O Hotel
819 S. Flower St.
Los Angeles, CA 90017
(213) 623-9904
www.barandkitchenla.com

Mezcal Paloma

Border Grill has been a Restaurant Week participant since the program’s inception, and both of its Los Angeles locations are offering a specially-priced signature cocktail for $9. Border Grill Downtown LA is featuring the Mezcal Paloma: reposado mezcal, freshly squeezed grapefruit, spiced salt rim. Border Grill Santa Monica is featuring its Cucumber Margarita: 1800 silver, cucumber, jalapeño, fresh lime.

Border Grill Downtown
445 South Figueroa St.
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 486-5171

Border Grill Santa Monica
1445 4th St.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 451-1655

Charlie Brown

With five restaurant bar programs under his watch, the odds were favorable that Julian Cox would have a cocktail or two featured during Restaurant Week.

• Picca will be offering a cocktail created especially for Restaurant Week, the Viceroy Old Fashioned: Pisco Acholado, Dolin Blanc, Bittermens Hiver Amer Liqueur, Peruvian Bitters. The Viceroy Old Fashioned will be specially priced at $10 (cocktails are regularly priced at $12).
• Playa is offering three drink specials that are “meant to complete your Playa experience.”
• Short Order is offering an optional “dessert” course, the Charlie Brown: vanilla custard, roasted Spanish peanut infused bourbon, chocolate ganache ($8, regular price $12).

El Guerro | Photo by Gabriella Mlynarczyk

Eva Restaurant mixologist Gabriella Mlynarczyk is showcasing several cocktails for Restaurant Week:

• Mlynarczyk’s take on the classic French 75, the Spirit of 75: house made orange blossom gin, Lillet Blanc, sugar, lemon, bubbles ($12).
• El Guerro: Mezcal, blended Scotch, agave, Dolin Blanc Vermouth, lime, cucumber, grey salt ($14).
• Mlynarczyk pays tribute to chef Mark Gold’s family with her Manhattan variation, the Sheepshead Bay: bourbon, house made kummel, benedictine, Cocchi Americano ($14).
• Flintlock: Blended scotch, Laphroiag single malt scotch, housemade lapsang tea liqueur, chocolate bitters, flamed orange, applewood smoked glass ($12).

Eva Restaurant
7458 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 634-0700
www.evarestaurantla.com

Fleur de Lis | Photo by David Guilburt

In Venice, Joe’s Beverage Director Jennifer Zerboni is featuring the Fleur de Lis: Luksusowa Vodka, lemon, grapefruit, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, muddled basil ($12).

Joe’s Restaurant
1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd.
Venice, CA  90291
(310) 399-5811
www.joesrestaurant.com

Oak Knoll Manhattan | Photo by Luis Nava

The Raymond offers a selection from the 1886 Bar’s Winter Menu, a Manhattan variation by Danny Cymbal that gives a nod to Pasadena. His Oak Knoll Manhattan uses housemade mulled wine vermouth crafted with locally-grown spices and botanicals, bonded bourbon, dry vermouth, and dried sugar garnish ($12).

The Raymond
1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave. (at Columbia)
Pasadena, CA  91105
(626) 441-3136
www.theraymond.com

Garden Collins

In what may be a first, Sadie is opening during Restaurant Week, on Tuesday, January 24th. Giovanni Martinez, who oversaw the bar program at Sadie in its previous incarnation as Les Deux Estate, is featuring a cocktail made especially for Restaurant Week, the Garden Collins: Old Tom Gin, cucumber, celery, simple syrup, fresh lime ($6).

Sadie
1638 N. Las Palmas Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90028
(323) 467-0200
sadiela.com

If it’s autumn, it must be time for Julian Cox to unleash a slew of fall cocktail menus at restaurants all over town. As cocktail enthusiasts have come to expect, Cox will launch the new drinks with special one-night pricing during their debuts.

First up is Picca on Tuesday, October 18th. Starting at 9pm, pisco aficionados can try $9 cocktails like the Jonestown Sour (grape coulis, black pepper, cardamom, lemon juice, simple syrup, Quebranta pisco), while fans of the agave will enjoy the Huac This Way (rocoto puree, fresh huacatay, lemon juice, agave nectar, mezcal).

Picca Fall Cocktail Launch
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
9pm
Featuring $9 fall cocktails

Picca
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035
310.277.0133
www.piccaperu.com

Playa Fall Cocktail Launch
Thursday, October 20, 2011
5:30-7:30pm
Featuring $9 fall cocktails

Playa
7360 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 933-5300
www.playarivera.com

To go with the libations, Sotto will offer Specialty Bar Bites, which start at $3 and are available only at the bar during the Aperitivo and Digestivo Hours:

• Ceci Fritti
• Seasonal Crostini
• Calamari Fritti
• Lupini Beans Sott’aceto
• Arrosticini

Aperitivo Hour – 5:30pm-6:30pm, Tues.-Sun.
Digestivo Hour – 9pm-10pm, Tues.-Sun.
Note: Sotto is closed on Mondays.

Sotto
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0210
www.sottorestaurant.com

Photo of Julian Cox by @dine_LA via Instagram. Video by Evan Romoff, courtesy of dineLA.com.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZWBKwJ8iLA

Mezzanine Bar at Picca | Photo: Picca

Cox’s most recent launch was at Picca Peru, Chef Ricardo Zarate‘s new restaurant in the Townhouse on Pico. Picca is celebrating this weekend’s opening of its upstairs Mezzanine Bar with The $25 Treat: choose three items from the causa sushi or anticucho menu, paired with a cocktail or glass of wine, Monday-Thursday 9pm-12am, and Friday and Saturday 9:30pm-12am. (Special available in the Mezzanine Bar only.)

Picca Peru
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0133
www.piccaperu.com

Last Friday, Playa was the setting for the debut of Cox’s Summer Cocktail Menu, along with new summer items from Chef John Sedlar, including Gazpacho Fission, Thai Tamalli and Mussels Meltdown. For night owls, Playa has launched a Dos y Uno special that includes a choice of two maize cakes and a cocktail or glass of wine for $22, from 10pm to close.

Playa
7360 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 933-5300
www.playarivera.com

This week, Cox is back at the restaurant where he first flew solo, when he debuts his Summer Cocktail Menu at Rivera on Tuesday, August 2nd. As with Cox’s previous Rivera menu launches, the new drinks will be specially priced at $9 for one night only.

Rivera
1050 S. Flower St, #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(213) 749-1460
www.riverarestaurant.com

But wait, there’s more: in September, Sotto (downstairs from Picca in the Townhouse on Pico) will be launching an Aperitivo and Digestivo Hour (an early and late night happy hour) along with Cox’s Late Summer Cocktail menu.

Sotto
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0133
www.sottorestaurant.com

Plenty of room on the Rose Bowl field during the early part of the 2010 Summer Tasting Event. Organizers have greatly expanded the amount of space for this year's edition.

Often imitated but never duplicated, the LA Street Food Fest returns with its 2nd Annual Summer Tasting Event, taking place once again at the Rose Bowl on Saturday, July 16th. Everything about this year’s edition of the festival has been expanded, from the number of participants to the event space, which now includes three soccer fields in the Rose Bowl’s Brookside Park. With plenty of room and staggered event times (see below), Co-Founders Shawna Dawson and Sonja Rasula hope to mitigate the long lines and food shortages that affected the latter part of last year’s Summer Tasting Event.

The list of participants features dozens of the city’s favorite gourmet trucks, old school carts and stands, celebrity chefs, and some of LA’s top restaurants. Vendors include food trucks like The Grilled Cheese Truck and Great Balls on Tires, street eats by foodie faves Starry Kitchen and Guelaguetza, and one of Food & Wine’s 2011 Best New Chefs, Ricardo Zarate (Picca, Mo-Chica). Bill Esparza (Street Gourmet LA) has helped to assemble a first-ever gathering of legendary Baja chefs, including Javier Plascencia and the chef widely acknowledged to have the best street cart in the world: Diego Hernandez of Corazon de Tierra. The always-popular Ice Cream Social makes a welcome return, featuring cult favorites CoolHaus, Master Chef’s Batch from Scratch, and a preview of the upcoming Mother Moo Creamery.

The Sailor Jerry station is sure to be a popular stop again this year.

Sampling all that great food is thirsty work, so the Summer Tasting Event will have two Singha Beer Gardens, plus cocktail bars featuring Sailor Jerry Rum, Milagro Tequila and Hendrick’s Gin.

Tequila Corrido makes it a very happy birthday at the 2010 Summer Tasting.

Agave aficionados will want to zero in on the Tequila Tasting Tent, featuring:

• Angel Bendito Tequila
• Agave de Cortes Mezcal
• Inocente Tequila
• Reserva Quintero
• Sacacuento Ultra Premium Mezcal
• Tequila 55
• Tequila 1519
• Tequila Abondonado
• Tequilas Bracero
• Tequila Capaz
• Tequila Corrido
• Tequila El Agave
• Teteo Tequila

TICKETS
Summer Tasting attendees have several ticket options for entry to one of three 3-hour sessions, capped at 1500 people each:

• Session I: Picnic in the Park (all ages, 10am-1pm)
• Session II: Family Fun Day (all ages, 2pm-5pm)
• Session III: Date Night (21+, 6pm-9pm)

No word yet on what Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran will be wearing at this year's festival.

The $60 All-Inclusive Session Ticket features:

• 75+ street food vendors
• Cocktail bars and Singha beer gardens
• Tequila Tent
• Ice Cream Social
• Beverages from IZZE, Honest Tea, Coba
• Street Food Cook Off
• DJ Bryan Davidson
• Portion of proceeds to benefit Downtown Women’s Shelter

The $75 Luxe Lounge Ticket includes all of the above plus the Test Kitchen Luxe Lounge:

• Private tented lounge hosted by Test Kitchen
• Hendrick’s Bar featuring Julian Cox
• Special bites by Chef Farid Zadi
• Massage station with Dr. Kevin and Dr. Steve
• Preferred parking and special entrance

NOTE: only 200 Luxe Lounge tickets are available per session.

Family Pack tickets start at $130 for 2 Adults and 1 Junior (ages 8-12) for Session I or II.

Online tickets are on sale now at Eventbrite. No tickets will be sold at the door.

A portion of every ticket sold will benefit the Downtown Women’s Center to support its mission “to provide permanent supportive housing and a safe and healthy community fostering dignity, respect, and personal stability, and to advocate ending homelessness for women.” In 2010 the LA Street Food Fest raised over $10,000 for St. Vincent Meals on Wheels and Woolly School Gardens.

LA Street Food Fest – 2nd Annual Summer Tasting Event
Saturday, July 16, 2011
10am-1pm (Session I), 2-5pm (Session II), 6-9pm (Session III)
Online tickets: Eventbrite

The Rose Bowl
Brookside Park
360 North Arroyo Blvd.
Pasadena, CA 91103

NOTES:

• Children age 7 and under are admitted free with a paying adult to Session I or II.
• Due to health and Rose Bowl regulations, no dogs allowed. Sorry, Snoopy.

Update 7/12: For those of you lucky enough to have Luxe Lounge tickets, here are the cocktails by Julian Cox!

• Peat Rose – Hendrick’s Gin, fresh lemon, cane sugar, seltzer or soda, lemon verbena, Islay Scotch, rose air
• Gin y Hendrick’s – Hendrick’s Gin, fresh lime, mint, agave nectar, salt, cucumber espuma

For more information on the LA Street Food Fest, visit lastreetfoodfest.com.
Follow LA Street Food Fest on Twitter: @LAFoodFest
Become a fan on Facebook: LA Street Food Fest

"Hulk smash!"

Cox had been talking up his Hulk el Increible for some time, so I knew I had to start the session with it. Demonstrating the axiom that great minds drink alike, my friend Amy was already sipping her own Hulk when I arrived. The Hulk is made with blanco tequila, micro cilantro, Green Chartreuse, tomatillo and “Hellfire” bitters. It’s a green monster of a drink, balanced between the agave and the funky Chartreuse, with Cox’s house bitters bringing home the heat.

Hellfire bitters: tastes like burning.

I took Cox up on his offer to taste the Hellfire bitters, which he had made with various peppers and molasses. Cox calls his bitters the “gamma rays” that power the Hulk; one drop is enough to turn anyone into a raging beast.

Spring Fashioned

Amy’s second drink was the Spring Fashioned: reposado tequila, agave nectar, Amaretto and bitters. Cox worked his magic to create an excellent Old Fashioned riff that even whiskey purists will appreciate.

The Hurt Locker: “It’s the bomb!”

My second round was The Hurt Locker: bourbon, lemon balm, Cardamaro and orange bitters. Another winner, elevated by the amaro’s distinct nutty, spicy character.

Carroll Gardens

Medrano Cobbler | Photo: Kristina Howald

Amy finished with a classic Hemingway Daiquiri, made with Rhum Agricole, fresh grapefruit, lime, maraschino liqueur. My final drink was the Carroll Gardens: rye whiskey, Carpano Antica, Nardini Amaro, maraschino liqueur and lemon peel. Created by Death & Company bartender Joaquin Simo and named after his Brooklyn neighborhood, the Carroll Gardens is a drink with some heft. The bitter, mint and anise notes of the amaro gives the cocktail its backbone.

Other spring cocktails from the Late Night Menu Launch:

• The Improved Alabama Cocktail: bourbon, fresh lemon and orange juices, orgeat
• Oaxacan Rose: mezcal, Amontillado Sherry, lavender bitters, rose water
• Fish House Punch – Two Ways: Venezuelan or Jamaican Rum, cognac, fresh lemon, créme de pêche, soda, lemon peel
• Rosé Perez: cachaça, rosé wine, lime, sugar, egg white, Peychaud’s bitters
• Medrano Cobbler: Amontillado Sherry, Amer, cinnamon bark demerara, crushed ice

The entire Spring Cocktail Menu (at regular prices) will be available starting tonight, with Cox once again behind the bar. There’s no rest for the weary, though; Cox is debuting a new Playa menu next week with a Rivera-style launch. Then there’s one more project to work on before he and fiancée Kristina Howald finally take their much-delayed trip to Europe, which Cox won at The Classic & Vintage End of the Road Show during last year’s Manhattan Cocktail Classic.

Rivera
1050 S. Flower St, #102
Los Angeles, CA 90015
(213) 749-1460
www.riverarestaurant.com

Julian Cox, during a preview night at Sotto.

After a weekend of previews and a final event on Tuesday night, Chefs Steve Samson and Zach Pollack are scheduled to open their Italian restaurant Sotto on Wednesday, March 30th. Sotto is opening in the space that formerly housed Test Kitchen, the celebrated über pop-up restaurant located in the ground floor of what is now known as The Townhouse on Pico. Sotto will feature Samson and Pollack’s menu of regionally-inspired Southern Italian dishes, including fresh house-made pastas and Neapolitan pizzas cooked in a handcrafted wood burning oven, reportedly the first of its kind in the Los Angeles area.

To complement the market-driven cuisine, Julian Cox (Playa, Rivera) is creating a cocktail menu and curating a spirits selection that showcases the bitter Italian herbal liqueurs known as amari. Cox is very familiar with the Sotto space, having been Test Kitchen’s bar manager for the duration of its four month run. With Sotto’s opening fast approaching, Cox invited me to stop by his latest endeavor during a busy friends and family night.

Your photo would be blurry too, if you just did a shot of Zedda Piras.

Test Kitchen regulars will likely be startled by the dining room’s transformation: the lighting has been dimmed; a dark palette of brown and black replaces Test Kitchen’s brighter tones; wooden ceiling beams and raw tabletops add an elemental touch; new additions include common tables and a wine bottle wall. One thing that hasn’t changed is the room’s vibrant energy, as if you’re stepping into a lively dinner party where all of the guests have known each other for ages.

Kate Grutman

Brian Summers and Kate Grutman, who were both members of Cox’s opening team at Playa, are joining him at Sotto and were kept busy mixing drinks from the preview’s menu of three cocktails. Although Cox will be splitting his time between Sotto and Playa, Summers and Grutman will be at Sotto full time.

With a broad smile from behind the bar, Cox proudly showed off the re-designed digs, starting with the new zinc bar top, which he said will develop a patina over time as it ages. The elegant bar top extends to the far wall and turns the corner, so guests will now be able to dine from the best seats in the house to watch the open kitchen in action. From my corner bar stool it was easy to see the buzz of activity surrounding the artisanal oven. As described in Squid Ink, third-generation oven-builder Stefano Ferrara hand built Sotto’s oven with materials imported from Naples.

The back bar at Sotto, a work in progress.

Custom brushed metal racks have been installed for the back bar, a work in progress that’s opening with 18 amari filling one shelf (“the usual suspects for now,” as Cox put it), a bitters collection taking up another, and some leftover Test Kitchen inventory rounding out the selection. As with Playa’s Great Wall of Booze, Cox will use LEDs to illuminate Sotto’s back bar. Cox pointed out the Italian mixing glasses, inspired by Sotto’s Mediterranean vibe.

Regarding the spirits displayed on the back bar, Cox half-jokingly said, “There are no mezcals up there…for a reason.” It’s not that Cox is abandoning the agave-based spirits and cocktails that first won him acclaim at Rivera and more recently at Playa. In fact, he’s about to debut Rivera’s Spring Cocktail Menu with one of his popular late night launch parties, and is working on new cocktails for Playa. But like an actor typecast into a role, Cox has been eager to expand his cocktail repertoire beyond his familiar tequila-mezcal orbit, and his enthusiasm about Sotto was evident.

Daiquiri di Brevetto

Cox started me with his Daiquiri di Brevetto: J.M Rhum Agricole, Amaro Averna, cane sugar and muddled pineapple. One sip of this Caribbean-Mediterranean summit meeting is enough to be excited about Cox’s approach: the peppery heat of the overproof rhum is tempered by the earthy, bittersweet amaro, and then a taste of the tropics rounds out this superb cocktail. It was an excellent introduction to Sotto’s cocktail menu, which Cox said will feature less than ten drinks when it debuts, with prices around $10-12.

Preparing a pizza for the wood burning oven...

...and minutes later, adding the finishing touches.

Between drinks I took an informal poll of fellow patrons, and some of the standout dishes include: sardines alla piastra (Sicilian winter citrus salad, shaved fennel, crushed olive-pistachio vinaigrette); the casarecce with braised lamb ragu, egg, and percorino; and the pizza salsiccia e friarielli (sausage, broccoli de ciccio, mozzarella, chilies).

Típico Italiano

While I was distracted by the piping hot pizzas coming out of the kitchen at a rapid clip, Summers made me one of his Sotto creations, the Típico Italiano: Beefeater Gin, Amaro CioCiaro, lemon and grapefruit juice, and marjoram. As with Cox’s daiquiri, the herbaceous, bitter amaro anchors Summers’ cocktail, offset by the acidity of the citrus and the oregano-like marjoram. Another great sipper with depth and complexity. Summers said he’s still fine-tuning the cocktail, but the essential blueprint is there.

Brian Summers

The visit was brief, but it was long enough to tell me that cocktail enthusiasts and Italian food aficionados alike will be clamoring for a seat at Sotto. The tantalizing glimpse of Julian Cox’s new menu bodes well for his fans, and for those who are unfamiliar with amari, he and his team seemed eager to educate guests. And by “educate,” I mean pour the occasional shot. After all, isn’t that what friends and family are for?

Sotto
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035
(310) 277-0133
www.sottorestaurant.com

Note: as of this writing, the Sotto website isn’t live but the restaurant’s OpenTable page is taking reservations.

It’s been a long time since I’ve done one of these compilations, but it’s not for a lack of exciting things happening in the L.A. cocktail scene. Quite the contrary, in fact; with a slew of bar openings and more on the way, there’s never been a better time to be a cocktail enthusiast in the City of Angels. In recent weeks the amount of coverage has ramped up, which makes it as good a time as any to collect some highlights from the last few months. Here’s hoping it won’t take me a year to post another digest. Cheers!

Last month’s superb Brand X Mixology Issue (Feb. 16, 2011) takes its place alongside Jonathan Gold’s The New Cocktailians (LA Weekly, 2009) and Imbibe Magazine’s A Star is Re-Born (Jul./Aug. 2010) as essential guides to the state of the L.A. cocktail scene.

Among the great reads: a profile of Zahra Bates (Providence); an in-depth look at Harvard & Stone; Q&A’s with Julian Cox (Playa) and Matt Biancaniello (Library Bar); a mixology glossary by Justin Pike (The Tasting Kitchen); and a spirits buying guide.

In a previous Brand X issue, Joshua Lurie detailed an interesting connection between Aidan Demarest, John Coltharp, Joel Black and Brian Summers in La Frite, a Family Tree Nourished by Alcohol (Dec. 6, 2010).

LA Times Magazine continues to pair cocktail recipes and gorgeous photos, such as Apricot Dreams (Dec. 2010), featuring a couple of recipes by Varnish co-owner Eric Alperin. Recent entries in the magazine’s Cocktail Confidential blog covered the opening of Bar Toscana (Dec. 14, 2010) and the long-awaited launch of liquor sales at Silver Lake’s Bar Keeper (Sep. 24, 2010).

Camper English (Alcademics) has been writing a great series of articles for the magazine, including:

• Sherry Reconsidered (Feb. 2011), with recipes by Zahra Bates, Alex Day (Proprietors LLC), and others.
• The Martini Does Not Exist (Jan. 2011)
• Cognac Cocktails (Nov. 2010), with recipes by Damian Windsor (Roger Room).

• After a visit to Test Kitchen, Frank Bruni returned to New York and embarked on a quest for an elusive cocktail in Smitten with a Cocktail Called Frisco (Oct. 28, 2010).
• Matt Biancaniello is featured in the T Magazine article Savory Cocktails (Dec. 8, 2010), which includes a photo by Dylan Ho (The Cocktail Revival).
• In a Sunday Travel article (Feb. 20, 2011), a guide on how to spend 36 Hours in Downtown Los Angeles includes The Varnish, The Edison and Seven Grand.

In his acclaimed new book Living Loaded: Tales of Sex, Salvation and the Pursuit of the Never-Ending Happy Hour, author Dan Dunn (The Imbiber) begins each chapter with one of 16 original cocktail recipes, created by top bartenders such as local stars Vincenzo Marianella (Copa d’Oro) and Steve Livigni (Harvard & Stone), as well as King Cocktail himself, Dale DeGroff.

More love for The Varnish in the March 2011 issue of Bon Appetit, in an article called Hollywood Eats: 10 Ways to Do L.A. Like a Star. Number Five is Polish Off a Perfect Cocktail at The Varnish, and includes a recipe for a Bols Genever cocktail, the Holland Red Light.

In the March 2011 issue of Condé Nast Traveler, Bricia Lopez (Guelaguetza) gives props to her two favorite bars, La Descarga and Las Perlas, as part of the 27 Reasons to Love L.A. Now.

And to bring it all full circle, last week’s LA Weekly cover story featured Jonathan Gold’s list of L.A.’s Best Cocktails (Mar. 3, 2011). The collection of 55 drinks includes classics, signature favorites like the Donaji and Tapping the Admiral, intriguing unknowns like the Faulkner’s Breakfast at Musso & Frank, and left field choices like the Picon Punch in Bakersfield, of all places.

One more for the road: In anticipation of its upcoming Cocktails 2011 book, the April issue of Food & Wine magazine lists America’s Best New Bars, including The Tasting Kitchen and 1886 at The Raymond.

Brian Summers (L) and Julian Cox are fired up for Playa's opening night.

Anticipation is hitting a fever pitch this week for Playa, the new venture from Rivera chef John Sedlar opening on Friday, February 11th. Foodies are salivating at the prospect of exploring Sedlar’s “Urban Latin Cuisine,” while cocktail enthusiasts are ready to sip the latest creations from Julian Cox, the acclaimed mixologist and 2010 StarChefs Rising Star. At a special sneak preview event last night, friends and family were among the first to sample Sedlar’s menu, selected cocktails, and glasses from sommelier Ben Broidy’s 130-bottle wine list.

From the cuisine to its spacious, earth-toned interior, Playa is meant to capture “the spirit of L.A.’s open-air, laid-back, coastal lifestyle.” Unlike Rivera’s hidden-in-plain-sight facade, Playa features showcase windows that will surely tempt rush hour drivers to pull over and see what’s happening on the south side of Beverly Blvd.

Playa's signature chandeliers evoke tumbleweeds, sea urchins, and possibly tribbles.

When you enter the soaring, double height space (formerly home to Grace), the first thing you’ll notice are the striking, fibrous chandeliers, which evoke tumbleweeds from Sedlar’s hometown of Santa Fe.

Be still my heart: the Great Wall of Liquor.

Off to the right is a sight that will thrill many an imbiber: a wall of liquor that reaches to the ceiling, featuring a library-style ladder for those hard to reach bottles. A secondary wall with top shelf (literally) spirits is likewise accessed by the ladder. Visual appeal aside, it will be interesting to see how this design plays out on busy nights.

The bar shares an open area with a station where maize cakes are made to order, while beyond is the glassed-in kitchen. Cox has assembled a formidable bartender team, with several that will be familiar to regular guests of Test Kitchen, Library Bar, La Descarga or Tar Pit.

A Oaxacan the Clouds

As final preparations for the preview wrapped up, I settled into a corner of the bar with Christopher Day (Dr. by Day), who will be working the Playa bar a few times a week and was lending a hand to set up for the event. I started with Davidson Fernie’s A Oaxacan the Clouds: Del Maguey Mezcal Vida, lemon juice, agave nectar, garnished with roasted cherry tomatoes and fried sage, topped with a sprinkle of kosher salt and Piment d’Espelette.

As luck would have it, my first cocktail at Playa was made by Jonathan Kleinbart, an old friend from SF who was previously at Swig. Fernie’s creation was the ideal introduction to Playa: balanced and smoky, with a hint of spice.

A Bespoke Cocktail from Brian Summers, dubbed El Rodeo.

One of the pleasures of drinking at a quality craft cocktail bar is going off-menu for improvised cocktails that are based on a guest’s spirit and flavor preferences. Case in point was the Bespoke Cocktail that Brian Summers made for Day, which was dubbed El Rodeo: Mezcal Vida, lemon, lime, cinnamon tincture, and a house syrup of toasted guajillo and arbol chiles that took Summers over three hours to prepare. One sip of Day’s drink and I had to have one as well. If the ingredients are available, I highly recommend saddling up to Summers’ El Rodeo, especially if you’re a fan of smoky and savory cocktails with a kick. Or have a Playa bartender create something else entirely; you’ll be in good hands.

"What...is your quest?" "I seek The Grail."

I’ll have to revisit The Grail, but the sip I had was intriguing and flavorful: 12-Year Apple Brandy, malbec, pressed apple, Don’s Mix, a splash of Mexican Coke, topped with an apple espuma and garnished with a dehydrated apple chip.

An Andalusian Before: Paso Fino

Next was An Andalusian: 3 Ways, a cocktail made with slightly different ingredients, based on whether it’s ordered before, during or after the meal. Like the cocktail itself, the variations are named after horses: Paso Fino, Palomino and Furioso. All three versions are made with Tequila Ocho Reposado, Cocchi Aperitivo Americano, and Spanish Vermouth. Then come varieties of Sherry: Fino, Amontillado, or East India. Finally, a twist of lemon, Meyer lemon, or grapefruit. The Paso Fino was well-balanced, bright and refreshing; a perfect segue from the bar to the table as we were seated for dinner.

The Playa menu is divided into Cool and Warm (small plates), Big (mains), Sides and Desserts. The Cauliflower (Indian spices, green chiles, chana crisp) is an outstanding Side, while Rivera fans will recognize the popular Tortillas Florales.

A Cool favorite was the Octo-Palm: grilled octopus, palm hearts, scallions, oven-dried cherry tomatoes and oven-dried red onion. Another standout was the Maize Cake Cauliflower x 3, with cauliflower three ways (caramelized, oven-dried, hibiscus-picked), oven-dried jalapeño, and curry. One caveat about this and other maize cake items: they’re excellent, but depending on your appetite and the size of your party, you may want to order several.

The Spice Trade

To go with the Cool dishes, I ordered The Spice Trade: Dos Maderas P.X. (5+5) Double Aged Rum, kaffir lime tincture, lemongrass syrup, and Fever-Tree Bitter Lemon. In flavor and bite The Spice Trade reminds me of a Dark N Stormy, and its tanginess went well with our first plates.

Highlights from the Warm items include the Tamalli Châteaubriand (wild mushroom duxelles dumpling, filet mignon, chipotle béarnaise) and the Arroz con Pato (duck confit, baby vegetable pickles, arroz blanco jus, Fresno chiles, chives, micro cilantro). Two other Maize Cakes were top notch, the Breakfast (63° egg, pan-seared potato, espuma de queso, black trumpet mushrooms, truffle cheese) and the Bombay Taj (pork belly confit, chile-lime jicama, mango pickle, masala, chana crisp, raita espuma).

Of the Big items, the Twice-Seared Duck (garbanzo crème, pepitas, white and black sesame, blood orange olive oil) was particularly memorable. As with the Maize Cakes, the mantra with the mains is quality, not quantity.

Several dishes were beautifully presented as part of an ongoing series that Sedlar calls Reflexiones. The interplay between the artfully designed food and imagery on the plate, the color and symbolism results in visually appealing dishes that are truly almost too pretty to eat. Almost.

An Andalusian During: Palomino

To wind down the meal I had the Palomino, which paired very nicely with the Warm and Big items. The Andalusian variations are more than just high concept; the changes in flavor profile are attuned to the guest experience and invite pairings throughout the evening. I never got to the Furioso, but I’ll be back to work my way through the cycle.

I’m admittedly not a sweet tooth, but there’s no question that I’ll have the superb Luna Mezcal again: chocolate cake, chocolate glaze, mezcal ice cream, caramel popcorn, Spanish peanuts, hibiscus sauce, and blackberry basil sorbet. While the mezcal ice cream was the initial attraction, the delicious sorbet is what will tempt me on my next visit.

The kitchen and bar were on point throughout the preview event, with dishes and cocktails executed to perfection. Diners lingered over their meals, table hopping and sharing recommendations. As the night progressed, the conversations and music grew louder and livelier, all part of a sophisticated dinner party that Angelenos can’t wait to attend.

Playa opens for dinner on Friday, February 11, 2011.

Playa
7360 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
(323) 933-5300
www.playarivera.com