When Zahra Bates tells you she has a new cocktail that she can’t wait to make for you, you go to Providence ASAP. Of course, whenever she launches a new list of drinks, it’s safe to say that cocktail enthusiasts throughout LA can’t wait to try them. Since taking the helm of Providence’s bar in 2008, Bates has crafted a program that continues to achieve the high levels of quality and innovation that led to Michael Cimarusti’s restaurant being awarded two Michelin stars in 2009. Bates keeps her menu tightly-focused, paring the list down and fine-tuning until each of the drinks meets her exacting standards. Though her cocktails aren’t listed on the restaurant’s website, the word always gets out to aficionados and fellow bartenders when she unveils her latest menu of seasonal creations.

Zahra Bates

And the word is steadily getting out about Bates, as well. Besides accolades in local and national media, she was a Bar Fellow at the 2011 Manhattan Cocktail Classic; the only female bartender featured in Summer’s Hot Cocktails on the Cooking Channel; and earlier this month was the subject of a profile in CLASS Magazine (“a dream come true,” says Bates).

An "oyster" cocktail, the latest in the Protein Series.

When I stopped by Providence last month, Bates had not yet debuted the new drinks, which are now available as this post goes live. As I looked over the menu, Bates served the latest in what she calls her Protein Series, cocktails that evoke the flavors of food. The amuse-bouche in this case was an “oyster,” made by cryovacking manzanilla sherry, lettuce, Japanese cucumber and celery, then cooking it in an immersion circulator. She adds Tanqueray Gin and sprinkles salt to finish. Though Bates said she was still perfecting the cocktail at the time, it tasted remarkably like oyster liquor (the liquid inside the shell).

An amuse-bouche of two cocktail bites: an effervescent Mojito gelée and a Screwdriver spherification.

Rye Thymes

Now that my palate was wide awake, Bates made the first of her new cocktails, the superb Rye Thymes: Old Overholt Rye, quince shrub, pear juice, Noilly Prat dry vermouth, ginger syrup and soda. Julian Cox had raved about the Rye Thymes a few days earlier: “One of the best drinks I have ever had. Zahra is a Zen master. Providence is and always has been a revelation.” The shrub is made with quince, honey and verjus (the pressed juice of unripened grapes), adding a sweet-tart element to the mix, with just a hint of the ginger at the end. Bates describes the Rye Thymes as a “whiskey hug,” and who wouldn’t find comfort in its embrace?

An amuse of nasturtium leaves (dressed in lemon & olive oil), house cured Tasman sea trout, ikura, bubu arare (crispy rice pellets), lemon, creme fraiche.

Mmm...salmon skin crisp...

Housemade norimaki arare (rice cracker with seaweed) and an addictive salmon skin crisp were served in a wooden box. The presentation resembled a karesansui (Japanese rock garden or dry landscape), though these were the tastiest “rocks” I’ve ever had.

Michael Cimarusti’s famed Chowda (clam chowder), made with manila clams, smoked bacon, potatoes and a creamy clam broth.

Hokkaido scallops

From the Market Specials: Hokkaido scallops with sea lettuce, toasted sesame seeds, yuzu zest and olive oil. Bates explained that Hokkaido scallops are known for their denser structure, and Cimarusti always serves them raw. It was one of the best scallop dishes I’ve had in some time, with subtle, delicate layers of flavor and texture.

Il Padrino, named for Vincenzo Marianella.

The next cocktail was Il Padrino: Bertagnolli Grappino Grappa, Luxardo Maraschino, Cointreau, lemon juice, Regan’s orange bitters, and egg white, finished with a mist of housemade Crème de Violette. Bates first conceived the cocktail as a “marriage” between an Aviation and a White Lady, in tribute to the nuptials of Audrey Saunders and Robert Hess. With the arrival of fall, and knowing of Providence co-owner and General Manager Donato Poto’s love for grappa, Bates wanted to feature it in a cocktail. Il Padrino is named for Vincenzo Marianella, “The Godfather” of the Los Angeles cocktail community who created the opening bar program at Providence (among many other restaurants and bars) before bringing Bates on board. Bates noted that, whether it’s one of his cocktails or even the Misto sprayer that he gave her, Marianella will always have a presence at Providence.

Piña y Piña

As she made the next cocktail, Bates said, “I think that gin and Yellow Chartreuse were made to be together.” It’s a union she puts to great use in the Piña y Piña: Plymouth Gin, pineapple reduction, Del Maguey Mezcal Vida, Yellow Chartreuse, garnished with Peychaud’s bitters. The drink’s name references two meanings for piña: pineapple, and the heart of the maguey plant (from which mezcal is distilled). Here, Bates plays with perception: the Piña y Piña is an aromatic cocktail that looks like a sour. There’s no egg in the mix; the foam and texture are all derived from the pineapple reduction and its intensified flavors. It’s another multifaceted, balanced libation, with tropical, spiced notes and a wisp of smoke.

The Treacle

In addition to her own signature cocktails, Bates features a selection of classics, which currently includes the Moscow Mule, the Millionaire (Smith & Cross Rum, Plymouth Sloe Gin, Rothman & Winter Apricot Brandy, lime juice) and The Treacle (Blackwell Rum, organic apple juice, Angostura Bitters).

Ellis Island

As I sipped The Treacle on a subsequent visit (along with a visiting dignitary and other cocktail enthusiasts), Bates served a fellow imbiber the Ellis Island: ZU Bison Grass Vodka, Grüner Veltliner, Cocchi Americano and celery bitters. Always up for a challenge, Bates took on the cocktail cognoscenti disdain for vodka and created a drink that even avowed vodka haters will enjoy. The cocktail is named for New York’s historic gateway for millions of immigrants to the U.S., and gives a nod to the origins of the drink’s vodka, white wine and aperitivo: Poland, Austria and Italy, respectively.

Having only had a taste of the Ellis Island, I returned to Providence for the full experience (purely for research purposes, of course). Rest assured that the Ellis Island was indeed as excellent as that initial sip, with a crisp, dry and fruity depth, a bit of white pepper and surprising notes of cinnamon at the finish. Thanks to an assist from Erick Castro, Bates plans to barrel age the Ellis Island.

Cider Mill

Bates enthusiastically recommended the Cider Mill, created by bartender Laura Lindsay: Laird’s Bonded Applejack, Sapling Maple Liqueur, vanilla sugar syrup, lemon juice, St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram, Angostura Bitters and fresh cinnamon. The Cider Mill is a lovely glass of winter, the heat of the Laird’s tempered by the sweet maple and vanilla, heady with winter spice.

As I sipped the Cider Mill, Bates made a nonalcoholic drink, an off-menu item that has become well-known among Providence regulars. Always seeking to expand her repertoire, Bates said, “I use it as a learning opportunity, and make the best [mocktail] the customer has ever had.” She gets to explore flavors and the customer gets a wonderful drink, it’s a win-win. This particular mocktail was made with cucumber, lychee, mint, lemongrass, dehydrated cane, ginger ale and lemon juice. The process involved what Bates calls the “Human Cuisinart” technique she learned in London: she peeled and chopped the cucumber, added to a pint glass, and whirled her knife inside until it was a blur. Don’t try this at home, kids.

Enjoying cocktails solo and with friends, in sessions that span several weeks, is an ideal introduction to any new menu, especially in the refined setting of Providence. Naturally, no sooner had I worked my way through her winter cocktails, than Bates casually mentioned something she’s been working on for the next menu. Needless to say, I can’t wait.

Providence
5955 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038
(323) 460-4170
www.providencela.com

Related posts:

1. A Taste of Drago Centro’s Winter Cocktails
2. Zahra Bates Guest Bartends at Test Kitchen, Next Up is Copa d’Oro
3. December 9: La Descarga Winter Cocktail Menu Launch

Selected nominees are highlighted below. For a complete list of nominees, visit: www.jpfawards.com/nominees

Congrats to all the finalists, and good luck in May!

2010 James Beard Foundation Awards Nominees (Partial List)

BOOK AWARDS
For cookbooks published in English in 2009.

BEVERAGE

Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology
by Randall Grahm
(University of California Press)

The King of Vodka: The Story of Pyotr Smirnov and the Upheaval of an Empire
by Linda Himelstein
(HarperBusiness)

World Whisky
by Charles Maclean
(DK Publishing)

JOURNALISM AWARDS
For articles published in English in 2009.

CRAIG CLAIBORNE DISTINGUISHED RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
“Sauced,” “Hot Birria, Cold Cerveza,” “Hare Today”

Patric Kuh
Los Angeles
“Border Crossing,” “Peru Calling,” “The Classic”

Jason Sheehan
Westword
“White on White,” “Wonderland,” “Mourning”

WRITING ON SPIRITS, WINE, OR BEER

Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl
Minnesota Monthly
“Chardonnay Uncorked”

Jonathan Gold
LA Weekly
“The New Cocktailians”

Lettie Teague
Food & Wine
“Is Grüner a Great Wine or a Groaner”

Restaurant and Chef Awards

OUTSTANDING CHEF AWARD
A working chef in America whose career has set national industry standards and who has served as an inspiration to other food professionals. Candidates must have been working as chefs for at least the past 5 years.

José Andrés
Minibar
Washington, D.C.

Tom Colicchio
Craft
NYC

Gary Danko
Restaurant Gary Danko
San Francisco

Suzanne Goin
Lucques
Los Angeles

Charles Phan
The Slanted Door
San Francisco

BEST CHEFS IN AMERICA
Chefs who have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions. Each candidate may be employed by any kind of dining establishment and must have been a working chef for at least the past 5 years. The 3 most recent years must have been spent in the region where the chef is presently working.

Best Chef: Pacific (CA, HI)

Michael Cimarusti
Providence
Los Angeles

Jeremy Fox
Ubuntu
Napa, CA

David Kinch
Manresa
Los Gatos, CA

Matt Molina
Osteria Mozza
Los Angeles

Michael Tusk
Quince
San Francisco

OUTSTANDING WINE AND SPIRITS PROFESSIONAL AWARD
A winemaker, brewer, or spirits professional who has had a significant impact on the wine and spirits industry nationwide. Candidates must have been in the profession for at least 5 years.

Merry Edwards
Merry Edwards Wines
Sebastopol, CA

Paul Grieco
Hearth
NYC

Garrett Oliver
The Brooklyn Brewery
Brooklyn, NY

John Shafer and Doug Shafer
Shafer Vineyards
Napa, CA

Julian P. Van Winkle, III
Old Rip Van Winkle Distillery
Louisville, KY

Related posts:

1. October 19: The James Beard Foundation L.A. Chef Invitational
2. The Varnish and Las Perlas Finalists for 2010 AIA Restaurant Design Awards
3. Tales of the Cocktail 2009 Spirit Award Nominees Announced

~

When it comes to food and drink writing in Los Angeles, Jonathan Gold is “the Man” and has the Pulitzer Prize to prove it. On October 10, he’s hosting Jonathan Gold’s Union Station Cocktail Party, a fundraiser for Zócalo Public Square, a non-profit organization that builds community by broadening access to civic discourse. According to Zócalo, this special event “will explore L.A.’s new cocktail moment with food and drink tastings and discussion.”

Tickets cost $300 per person, or $500 per couple. If the hit to your wallet seems a bit much, consider the worthy cause, the high-powered kitchen and bar talent, and Union Station’s beautiful Art Deco setting.

Jonathan Gold’s Union Station Cocktail Party
Saturday, October 10, 2009
7:00pm
Official Event Website

Union Station
Grand Ticket Concourse
800 N. Alameda St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Tickets: $300/guest, $500/couple

Featuring:

• Jonathan Gold (LA Weekly)
• Eric Alperin (The Varnish)
• Michael Cimarusti (Providence)

Tastings by: Church & State, Comme Ca, CUT, Mozza, Palate, Providence, Rivera

Custom paired cocktails by: Cedd Moses (213 Downtown)

Please visit the Zócalo website for more information.

Related posts:

1. October 9: Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
2. A Hot Time at Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
3. October 21: Late Night Menu Launch Party at The Yard