Thirsty in LA » music

La Descarga: A Postcard from Old Havana

thirstyinla — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:58:39 +0000

“My mojito in La Bodeguita, My daiquiri in El Floridita.” ~ Ernest Hemingway

Hemingway’s handwritten tribute to his favorite cocktails can be found at La Bodeguita del Medio, one of his regular haunts in Havana. Papa would no doubt feel right at home at La Descarga, the East Hollywood bar that opened last Tuesday to great acclaim. La Descarga is a collaboration between brothers Mark and Johnnie Houston, Steve Livigni (former GM at the Doheny), and Pablo Moix (Bacardi portfolio mixologist, previously at STK). Having missed the opening night bash, I was eager to visit the rum-centric bar for myself. Thankfully, fellow Drunken Army officer Caroline on Crack was way ahead of me and invited me to meet her at La Descarga last Friday.

I arrived early for Caroline’s reservation time, but rather than make me wait, the friendly doorman promptly waved me in. Once inside, I was greeted by the lovely hostess, who showed me to the entrance of the bar proper. I crossed the threshold and suddenly I was in the Old Havana of pre-Castro Cuba. Gazing down on the main room, it’s instantly apparent that La Descarga is a looker: a handmade, double-height bar dominates one wall, while wrought iron railings, antique sconces, and imported Cuban tile add to the authentic, immersive experience. Touches of beautiful decay give the space an aged look of bygone glory, from the dilapidated ceiling to faded wall paint.

Tapping the Admiral

I sat down at the bar and ordered a Tapping the Admiral ($13): Zaya rum, Carpano Antica, Cherry Heering and bitters. My cocktail was mixed by Deborah Stoll (Squid Ink), who told me the Admiral was her favorite on the menu. It’s easy to see why: the vanilla and coffee notes of the Zaya (distilled from molasses and aged 12 years), the sweet vermouth and black cherries, and a hint of smoke at the finish were a potent combination. It was a delicious cocktail and a promising start to a great evening.

Although the specialty cocktail menu only has rum-based drinks, plans call for non-rum cocktails to be featured as well. You can also choose from a list of 70 rums, or a smaller selection of whiskies and other spirits if rum doesn’t do it for you. Rum flights will be available shortly, but for now you can sip your spirits neat in the cigar lounge, a more intimate space located down a hallway from the main room.

By this time, Caroline and her boyfriend had arrived. Caroline suggested we grab a few seats opposite the bar, which turned out to be an excellent idea as the bar quickly filled up. For her first cocktail, Caroline ordered the Honey Swizzle ($12), featuring the anise-flavored Aguardiente Cristal. The anise was present, but it didn’t dominate; the cocktail was a nice balance between sweet and citrus.

Pappa's Daquiri

Next up for me was Pappa’s Daquiri ($10), made with Bacardi Carta Blanca, Maraschino Liqueur and grapefruit. The flavor profile was surprising: initially strong with citrus and tartness, which then segued into an unexpected smokiness. Very enjoyable and a nice way to follow the Tapping the Admiral. Caroline’s second drink was the signature La Descarga Daquiri ($9), made with Diplomatico Anejo Rum, lime and sugar. Smooth and dangerously drinkable. Like the El Floridita daiquiris Hemingway wrote about in Islands in the Stream, our second round cocktails ”had no taste of alcohol and felt, as you drank them, the way downhill glacier skiing feels running through powder snow.”

On separate occasions, Steve and Pablo sat with us to share the thought processes that went into the cocktail menu and interior design, the happy circumstances that brought the team together, and their ambitious plans for the future. We’re very interested to find out what they’re going to do with an adjacent 2,000 sq.ft. space, which nearly doubles the bar’s overall capacity.

Steve especially wanted to set the matter straight on a couple of points about La Descarga:

Reservations – are not required, but encouraged. Walk-ins are welcome, but if they’re at capacity they don’t want to keep guests waiting outside on Western. Don’t be flaky, though; if you break a couple of reservations without letting them know, your number goes on the blackball list. Just plan ahead, friends.
Dress code – though not explicitly stated, it’s the usual no shorts, flip-flops, or baseball caps policy found at upscale establishments. In fact, they’re encouraging guests to really dress up. On Friday we saw a few couples who did just that; hopefully more will follow as word gets out.

Pablo mentioned an upcoming creation called the Next Level: a cocktail made from a hollowed-out ice ball, resting on a bed of crushed ice, with straws for imbibing. If you think that sounds amazing, check out an image of the Next Level in this slideshow from LA Times Magazine. Pablo also told us that, besides the rum flights, punch bowls will be on the menu soon.

Beginning at 10pm, and hourly throughout the night, a brief show takes over the venue. As the percussion set the rhythm, a dancer and sax player performed a sensual duet. The dancer made her way to the floor, interacting with seducing guests before returning to the mezzanine. According to Steve, the show gets more risqué as the night progresses. By the time the band returned for its second set, couples were dancing to the piped-in music, raising the energy and noise to higher and higher levels.

A dip will do ya at La Descarga.

My final cocktail of the night was the Tropical Holiday ($12), made with Rhum JM Blanc, Velvet Falernum, lime, sugar, soda and bitters. Unfortunately, this was the only sour (or should I say bitter?) note of the night. We couldn’t figure out where the mix went wrong, only that something about it was funky. (And don’t get me wrong, I like the funk; I may be the only blogger in town that likes The Tar Pit’s Trident.) Two palates I trust, Food GPS and e*star LA, raved about the Tropical Holiday in their reviews, so I know I’ll give it another go next time.

Missing from that night’s cocktail menu was the Bad Spaniard, which the LA Times calls “a guilty pleasure made with Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Amaro Averna, sweetened condensed milk, one whole egg yolk and cinnamon.” It should be available this week, as good a reason as any to pay a return visit.

As we left La Descarga and stepped into a light rain, my thoughts returned to Hemingway’s note; what would he jot down if he were in 21st century Los Angeles? I have a feeling it would be something like this: “My mojito and my daiquiri in La Descarga.”

La Descarga
1159 N. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029
(323) 466-1324
www.ladescargala.com

8pm-2am
Tuesday-Saturday
Reservations encouraged.

Be sure to check out Caroline on Crack’s recap of the night at La Descarga (with video!).

More reviews and impressions of La Descarga:

Extra Credit
For more on Hemingway in Cuba, you can read “The Old Man and the Daiquiri” by Wayne Curtis (author of And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails) and the Havana chapter of Michael Palin’s Hemingway Adventure.

Lunes Latinos Launches at the Foundry on Melrose

thirstyinla — Mon, 14 Sep 2009 18:21:56 +0000

Beginning September 14, the Foundry on Melrose will expand its hours to Monday night with the launch of Lunes Latinos.

Lunes Latinos will feature Executive Chef / Owner Eric Greenspan’s spin on Latin cuisine. Menu offerings will include Greenspan’s Gorditas, three different gorditas priced at $3 each: Orange Glazed Chicken with Pinto Beans, Smokey Mole; Tamarind Garlic Steak with Cilantro Lime Sauce, Pico de Gallo; Dr. Pepper Marinated Pork with Pickled Cabbage, Horchata/Cheese Sauce. Other menu items include Chorizo Smothered Tots and Mini Churro Bites. The Lunes Latinos menu items will be available in the lounge and restaurant along with the Foundry’s regular dinner and lounge menus.

As with the Foundry’s other weeknights, Monday features a happy hour in the lounge from 6-9pm. Monday Happy Hour will feature a Latin-inspired free cocktail flight: the Laranja (Leblon Cachaça, Blood Orange Bitters, orange juice), a Cilantro Mojito (Starr Rum, muddled lime, Tamarind Syrup) and the Explosivo (Bacardi Limon, Pama Pomegranate Liqueur, chili). These Latin libations are half-priced during happy hour. And finally, to add to the spicy mix of food and drink, the lounge will feature Brazilian Jazz, Bossa Nova, Samba and Latin Fling.

Greenspan's Gorditas

September 14 is also the launch of the Foundry’s Monday Industry Night. On Monday nights, restaurant workers will receive 25% off their check in the lounge or dining room. To receive the discount, a pay stub must be presented to Foundry staff.

Lunes Latinos
Mondays, beginning Sep. 14
The Foundry on Melrose
7465 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90046
(323) 651-0915
www.thefoundryonmelrose.com

The Doheny Opens Its Doors (A Little)

thirstyinla — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 18:06:40 +0000

Since it opened last March, The Doheny has generated as much buzz for its secrecy and membership fee as it has for its all-star bartender team and outstanding cocktail menu. Despite the ongoing members-only policy, the general public can still experience the Doheny, if only on certain nights.

For the last several months, Uncompromised LA has booked some of LA’s best DJs to provide the grooves while guests imbibe the Doheny’s top notch cocktails. This Saturday, June 27, two of my favorite DJs, John Do and Justin Gourley of Basic, make a return visit. I was there for their previous Doheny gig in February, and the lively crowd, excellent libations, and intimate setting made for a potent combination.

And this Monday, June 29, Thrillist presents Secret Monday, featuring free Le Tourment Vert absinthe (from 9pm to 11pm) and DJs Pony vs. Tiger.

Both events require RSVPs for entry, so make sure to check their respective websites for guestlist and info.

Uncompromised LA
Saturday, June 27
10pm-2:30am
www.uncompromisedla.com

Secret Monday
Monday, June 29
9pm-close
www.thrillist.com

The Doheny
714 W. Olympic Blvd.
Downtown L.A.

For an in-depth look at The Doheny, check out the Dig Lounge review.

Taking Flight at the Foundry on Melrose

thirstyinla — Wed, 03 Jun 2009 18:40:59 +0000

Ever walk into a place and feel welcomed like you’ve been going there forever? That was my experience when I stopped by the Foundry on Melrose for the first night of its Patio Season Happy Hour. From gregarious Executive Chef Eric Greenspan to my bartender Dan, everyone at the Foundry greeted and took care of their guests like old friends. With the front patio doors wide open and live music drifting out onto Melrose, the Foundry’s summertime specials are sure to attract newcomers and regulars alike.

Patio Season Mai Tai

For the Patio Season Happy Hour, the Foundry pairs themed cocktails with lounge menu appetizers, plus a selection of specialty cocktails. Best of all, with your first cocktail order (half price from 6-9pm), you get a FREE cocktail flight of three samples of that night’s themed cocktails. Each night will be a different theme and spirit (bourbon, whiskey, or absinthe), and the lounge menu pairings will change as well. There’s also live music in the lounge; it’s jazz most nights, but last night was Bluesy Tuesday, featuring the marvelous Barry “Big B” Brenner. How Delta heavy were Barry’s blues? As Chef Eric put it, Barry’s beard has got blues songs in it.

To kick things off, I ordered the Patio Season Mai Tai from the Specialty Cocktails list. Made with Gosling’s Rum, Amaretto, and tropical juices, the refreshing cocktail was a great way to begin a relaxing evening. The Mai Tai even came with a paper umbrella, much to Greenspan’s teasing delight and Dan’s bemusement.

The flight, L to R: the Ramblin' Rose, the Debutante, and the Tennessee Peach.

For the flight, Dan put together three 2 oz. pours of the Bluesy Cocktails: the Ramblin’ Rose (Woodchuck Amber Cider, gin, bitters, watermelon), the Tennessee Peach (Jack Daniels, peach nectar, ginger), and the Debutante (Chambord, champagne, raspberries, lemonade). Since I was his first Patio Season customer, Dan gave me an extra sample, the Bourbon St. Trollop (Southern Comfort, Chambord, ginger, citrus). They all have their strengths, but if I had to pick just one, I’d go with the Ramblin’ Rose; it’s the cocktail that will evoke many a memory of BBQs back home.

Bluesy Food: fried chicken & waffles.

This being Bluesy Tuesday, the lounge menu featured Greenspan’s outstanding comfort food with his modern American twist: I had the buttermilk fried chicken with goat cheese waffles, and fried green tomatoes with cornmeal crust. Chef also plated up the chorizo chili; it’s an off-menu item, but do ask for it, it’s amazing. Other Bluesy Food items included a pork belly sandwich, grits, greens, and cornbread pudding. The cocktail flight threesome and three food items made for lots of possible food/drink combinations. Should I try the Trollop with the chili? Or maybe the Debutante with the fried chicken? Discovering what goes with what made for a fun, leisurely experience that solo diners and groups alike will enjoy.

The Billy Parks

I revisited the Specialty Cocktails menu and ordered a Billy Parks: Hendrick’s Gin, fresh cucumber, chili, and Lillet Blanc. It’s an excellent cocktail: the Hendrick’s unique flavor profile (it’s made from cucumbers, rose petals and juniper) is enhanced by the cucumber juice, the citrus of the Lillet Blanc, and a hint of spicy finish. Quite different from the Mai Tai, but just as ready-made for the summertime.

At this point, my barmate (a member of the Foundry team, hanging out) insisted I try a bite of the Patio Season Burger, a fantastic creation done with cheddar, Hawaiian bread, and summer condiments. Friends, if (like me) you are on a perpetual Great Burger Hunt, this is a must-try. My White Castle-sized sample only hinted at its greatness, and don’t even get me started on how tasty the onion rings looked.

With Barry’s first set over, I took that as my cue and reluctantly headed out. As I said earlier, everyone at the Foundry made me feel like I’ve been going there from Day One; without a doubt, consider me a Patio Season regular.

Patio Season Happy Hour
6-9pm
Tuesday-Friday
The Foundry on Melrose
7465 Melrose Ave.
(323) 651-0915
www.thefoundryonmelrose.com

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Wavemaker rope bracelets that Dan was giving out. Made for Oceana by Nautica, the bracelets celebrate World Oceans Day, which takes place on June 8. For more info, please visit the Oceana website.