In a weekend post to his Facebook page, Matthew Biancaniello hinted at how much work goes into bartending at a big Hollywood bash like last Saturday’s Speakeasy event: “…up early ready to pick up 800 lavender stems and juice 600 lemons.” Keep in mind, this update was posted at 5am on the morning of the party. Biancaniello might end up with Popeye’s forearms if his profile continues to rise at the rate it has since he captured the title at last August’s Chartreuse Sweet 16 Competition. Coming from a distinctly non-culinary background, Biancaniello has established himself as a force to be reckoned with in a city teeming with talented bartenders. Angelenos have taken notice, giving him the most votes in the ongoing LA’s Best Bartender Contest.

Honey Kumquat Pisco Sour

Biancaniello’s current schedule is demanding: in addition to long hours bartending at the Roosevelt Hotel’s Library Bar several days a week (and his subsequent visits to farmers markets to source ingredients), he worked throughout last month’s Tales of the Cocktail, is featured in the September issue of Bon Appetit magazine, and has a two-day gig (August 26-27) coming up at Test Kitchen, where he’ll be guest bartending during chef Walter Manzke’s run alongside resident mixologists Julian Cox and Joel Black.

I stopped by the Library Bar recently to meet Dragos Axinte, the founder of Novo Fogo Organic Cachaça, who was in town to introduce his excellent spirit to our city’s finest. While I waited for Axinte at the bar, Biancaniello got me started with a sample of Basil Hayden’s Bourbon, which he’d infused with Black Mission figs. The lightly spiced, peppery bourbon now had a vibrant color and a flavor profile enhanced by the distinctly sweet figs. It was a spirited amuse-bouche that only hinted at what was to follow.

Meanwhile, Biancaniello served a couple of guests two of his signature cocktails: the Honey Kumquat Pisco Sour and the Kentucky Bubble Bath. The latter (made with Bulleit Bourbon, housemade lavender syrup and a Cynar float) was the cocktail Biancaniello was referring to in his Facebook update.

As I sipped my Basil Hayden’s, who should stop by but the team from Heaven Hill Distilleries, who were in town to host a tasting the next night at Seven Grand. As Biancaniello greeted the new arrivals he told me he had made the rounds at the Santa Monica Farmers Market earlier that day: “You came on a good night.”

Biancaniello showcased two Heaven Hill favorites in an innovative cocktail he called the Mad Men, created for a private event hosted by a cast member of the acclaimed drama. Biancaniello began with a Quaffer, an hourglass-shaped glass designed to hold a shot and a chaser in a single vessel. The bottom (2.5 oz) features an Old Fashioned with Elijah Craig 12-Year Old, while a Rittenhouse 100 Sazerac fills the top half (1 oz). A Luxardo maraschino cherry separates the two mini-cocktails.

Matthew Biancaniello explains his Mad Men cocktail to guests.

Next up was Un Caffè Va Bene, made with 2 oz Cynar, 3/4 oz crème de cassis, and 1 oz espresso. Biancaniello feels it’s a drink you can enjoy at any time of the day, which is remarkable considering the distinctively flavored Cynar is the featured ingredient. While I’m sure I would enjoy having one at breakfast or lunch, Un Caffè Va Bene did strike me as the perfect after dinner cocktail: served in a flute, balanced and rich without being cloyingly sweet. Biancaniello says he loves Cynar (that makes two of us) and enjoys working with the “magical” combination of Cynar and crème de cassis, swapping out the third ingredient to create a variety of cocktails.

Last Tango in Modena

Then came the Last Tango in Modena: Hendrick’s Gin, 25-year balsamic vinegar, and frais des bois (wild strawberries). Biancaniello uses an iSi charger to top the drink with a foam made from St. Germain Elderflower, egg white, and lime juice. Biancaniello said that, of all of his cocktails (303 and counting), he’s the proudest of the Last Tango in Modena: it’s his most original and not based on anything else. It’s a cocktail that caught the eye of Gayot, which recently named the Last Tango one of the Top Ten Cocktails in the U.S. When Biancaniello serves the Last Tango he insists that guests don’t use a straw, so they can fully appreciate the texture and flavors. It’s a superb creation, delicately balanced from the aromatic foam to the cucumber-infused gin, the sweetness of the strawberries, and the sweet/sour depth of the aged balsamic.

Breeder's Cup

Biancaniello next presented his Breeder’s Cup, a Gordon’s Cup variation with Hendrick’s, cucumber, beet horseradish, lime and agave nectar, topped with salt. The cocktail’s brilliant hue serves notice that this is a drink with a kick: it’s a refresher on first sip thanks to the gin and cucumber, but there’s a nostril-clearing hit of horseradish on the finish.

An Old Fashioned with Novo Fogo Gold.

Axinte had arrived at this point, and after introductions and a tasting of the Novo Fogo Silver and Gold, Biancaniello’s creative juices were flowing and he served us a couple of cachaça-based cocktails. First up was an Old Fashioned featuring the Novo Fogo Gold, muddled figs, cinnamon, a sugar cube, and Bittermens Xocolatl Mole Bitters. It was a great riff on a classic, and before we were done Biancaniello had sold seven of them (to other patrons, of course).

Brazilian Negroni with Novo Fogo Silver.

Then it was the Brazilian Negroni, made with 1 oz Novo Fogo Silver, 1 oz Carpano Antica, .5 oz Aperol and .5 oz Campari, garnished with an orange peel. Another winner, one of the best drinks of the entire evening, and the one that got the most responses from my Twitter feed of the session.

Shiso Gimlet

Next was the Shiso Gimlet, made with Hendrick’s, lime juice, agave nectar and shiso leaves, garnished with white currants. The earthy shiso, with its hint of anise, adds depth to a simple yet enjoyable take on a classic.

The Root of It All

My final cocktail was The Root of It All, made with 2 oz ROOT, 3/4 oz crème de cassis, four small passion fruits, and topped with a dollop of passion fruit. Biancaniello was actually saving this drink to make for a local reporter, but because he/she was a no-show, Biancaniello was kind enough to make it for me instead. Hopefully the reporter is able to reschedule, because The Root of It All is a wonderful cocktail that once again showcases Biancaniello’s command of his ingredients.

What was originally planned to be a round of drinks and a short stay somehow turned into several hours of cocktails and flowing conversation that lasted well into the evening. It was by far one of the most memorable and enjoyable nights out I’ve had in quite some time.

Library Bar
Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel
7000 Hollywood Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90028
(323) 466-7000
www.thompsonhotels.com

Surrounded by the natural beauty of Brazil, the residents of the historic town of Morretes have embraced a life philosophy they call a vida mais simples: “the simpler life.” Not far from Morretes, you’ll find a protected tropical rain forest on the Atlantic Coast of Brazil; hiking and waterfalls at Pico do Marumbi; river dolphins and red-tailed parrots; and surfing at Paranaguá Bay. A distillery in Morretes continues the centuries-old tradition of producing handcrafted, small batch cachaça, a Brazilian spirit distilled from pressed sugarcane juice. The artisanal cachaças of Morretes are now being introduced to the rest of the world, thanks to Novo Fogo Cachaça Orgânica, a superb new entry in the cachaça category.

Novo Fogo was founded by Dragos Axinte, a native of Romania who emigrated to the US as a teenager with his family and eventually founded ColdHeat, a multimillion dollar consumer product company. Axinte has five patents and several applications to his name, but he’s embarked on this newest endeavor with his wife, Emily LaCroix-Axinte. Though it’s the world’s third most popular spirit (after vodka and soju/shochu), cachaça is still unknown to many consumers in the US. But with the cachaça market growing by 50% each year in the US, and American imbibers seeking higher quality spirits and handcrafted cocktails, Axinte’s business instincts appear to have served him well once again.

Ever the entrepreneur, Axinte has been reaching out to cocktail bloggers and spirits enthusiasts via Twitter, and not long after responding to his tweet I received a package from Bellevue, Washington, where Novo Fogo is based. Inside was an exhaustively detailed press kit and review bottles of Novo Fogo’s current releases, Novo Fogo Silver (Prata) and Novo Fogo Gold (Ouro).

The Doctor is In
Novo Fogo’s Master Distiller is Professor Agenor Maccari Jr., PhD (aka “Dr. Cachaça”), who grew up on a cachaça farm and is now considered a renowned authority on the spirit. He has studied every aspect of cachaça production, from the genetic selection of sugarcane to the fermentation process and wood aging, particularly native Brazilian woods. In addition to his work with Novo Fogo and his research and academic duties, Prof. Maccari influences the cachaça industry as a whole, such as his ongoing efforts to create Brazil’s first cachaça appellation. He strives to increase Brazil’s awareness of organic products by assisting cachaça distillers with shifting their production to organic, handcrafted processes.

USDA Organic and Zero Waste
Novo Fogo’s cachaças are certified USDA Organic, indicating no chemicals were used at any point during production: the sugarcane is grown without chemicals or preservatives; instead of burning the field, the sugarcane is harvested by hand; and organic corn and rice are added as fermentation agents, not chemicals. In addition, Novo Fogo’s products are vegan, gluten-free, and kosher.

Novo Fogo’s Morretes distillery is designated as Zero Waste, which means every by-product is reused. The bagasse (the residue that remains after the sugar cane is crushed) is used as steamer fuel, while the high-quality “heart” of the cachaça is used for the final product and the “heads” and “tails” are used as cleaner, fertilizer, and farm vehicle fuel. The distillery is built on a slope, in order to use gravity to move the cachaça from room to room instead of motorized pumps.

Silver and Gold
Of course, all of the green design and sustainable practices would mean nothing if the cachaça isn’t good, and thankfully Novo Fogo delivers in a big way. Novo Fogo Silver Organic Cachaça is pot distilled in small batches and rested for one year in stainless steel tanks. The Silver’s clear, crisp smoothness evokes the nearby Atlantic, ideally suited for mixing in a caipirinha (see below) and a perfect match with fruit. Like the Silver, Novo Fogo Gold Organic Cachaça is a handcrafted, small batch spirit. For the Gold, the cachaça is aged two years in reclaimed American Oak bourbon cask barrels. This aging gives the Gold a distinctly sweet oak character, resulting in a sipping spirit that can be enjoyed neat, on the rocks, or in a variation of your favorite brown cocktail.

Novo Fogo Silver Organic Cachaça

• 80 proof (40% ABV)
• Retail price: $29.99

TASTING NOTES (Batch No. L9327)

• Color – Clear
• Nose – Lime and floral notes
• Palate – Citrus, light sweetness and fruit
• Finish – Short and crisp, fresh sugar cane notes

Novo Fogo Gold Organic Cachaça

• 80 proof (40% ABV)
• Retail price: $34.99

TASTING NOTES (Batch No. L9328)

• Color – Light honey
• Nose – Caramel, vanilla
• Palate – Warm honey, sugar cane and fruit with a hint of smoke
• Finish – Long and smooth, light oak and vanilla at the end

From cork to base, Novo Fogo’s bottle design embodies the company’s sustainable practices. The bottles are handcrafted from recycled glass, collected from the streets of the neighboring city of Curitiba. The eye-catching neck wrap is made from a potato bag jute material, which provides extra grip when pouring. Cocktail recipes are printed on an attached neck tag made from 100% recycled paper.

The neck wrap is made from a potato bag jute material.

At the bottle’s base is a hand-signed label with a batch number, indicating the year and day of bottling, as well as the bottler’s initials.

The handwritten batch number and bottler's initials.

Novo Fogo is currently available locally at Mel & Rose and Wally’s Wine and Spirits.

For more information, visit novofogo.com.
Facebook: novofogo
Twitter: @novofogo

Novo Fogo Silver: Strawberry Caipirinha
Brazil’s national cocktail is the Caipirinha, a refreshing drink made with cachaça, sugar and lime. From this basic combination, endless variations can be created, including the summertime perfection of strawberries and Novo Fogo Silver.

STRAWBERRY CAIPIRINHA
Ingredients:

• 1.5 oz. Novo Fogo Silver Cachaça
• 1 tbsp sugar
• 1/4 cup fresh strawberries
• 1 small lime

Preparation:

• Cut the lime into wedges and muddle them with sugar in a rocks glass.
• Add the strawberries and muddle again.
• Fill the glass with ice. Add cachaça and pour everything into a shaker.
• Shake and pour everything (including the ice) back into the same glass.

Strawberry Caipirinha

Novo Fogo Gold: Rabo de Gallo and The Gisele
In the July/August issue of Imbibe, writer Paul Clarke does an excellent job covering the vanguard of the burgeoning LA cocktail scene, including Caña Rum Bar in downtown. An online extra features Caña bartender John Coltharp’s recipe for the Rabo de Gallo, a wonderfully balanced and flavorful cocktail that calls for two of my favorite ingredients, Cynar and Carpano Antica Formula. Novo Fogo’s aged cachaça adds depth and complexity to the mix.

Rabo de Gallo

RABO DE GALLO
Ingredients:

• 2 oz. cachaça (Novo Fogo Gold Cachaça)
• 1/2 oz. sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica)
• 1/2 oz. Cynar
• Orange peel for garnish

Preparation:

• Combine ingredients in a mixing glass and fill with ice.
• Stir well for 20 seconds, strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupe.
• Twist orange peel over drink and use as a garnish.

In a follow-up email, Axinte sent several new recipes, including one from Michael Kostin (Naga Cocktail Lounge) called The Gisele, which had just been created the night before.

THE GISELE
Ingredients:

• 1.5 oz Novo Fogo Gold Cachaça
• 3/4 oz Clément Créole Shrubb
• 1/2 oz Dolin Dry Vermouth
• 2 dashes The Bitter Truth Xocolatl Mole Bitters

Preparation:

• Stir ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.
• Top with Pilsner beer foam.