After an extended buildout that continued to generate anticipation over the last several months, Pour Vous is now open at long last. Mark and Johnny Houston (owners of Harvard & Stone, La Descarga et al.) have transformed the former Forty Deuce space into a Salon de Champagne, with Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix heading an all-star team that includes bar manager Dave Fernie, Adrian Biggs, Devon Espinosa and Lindsay Nader. Pour Vous warmed up for its Thursday night debut by hosting a couple of preview nights earlier this week, and on Tuesday “sexy” seemed to be the word on every guest’s lips.

While La Descarga evokes crumbling Old Havana and Harvard & Stone has the aged patina of a World War II-era factory, Pour Vous exudes a classy, underground Parisian vibe. The bar is the first thing that greets guests when they enter from Melrose, and it’s a looker indeed. The centerpiece is a gleaming copper cappuccino machine that’s been repurposed to house beer taps. Marble is a prominent element throughout Pour Vous, from the bar to the table tops. Plush banquettes offer cozy and comfortable seating, perfectly suited to the sultry Gallic atmosphere. An outside patio and smoking area features a refurbished trolley (not available during the preview) that Moix said people can sit inside. Can you say rendezvous?

Various mirrors reflect light from chandeliers, table lamps and candles.

With a golden, domed skylight above and a crackling fireplace, the most coveted seats are sure to be at the cocktail tables in the lower lounge.

Ménage à Trois

Moix said that his role in creating the Pour Vous cocktail menu was like that of a conductor, offering suggestions and opinions while Fernie did the heavy lifting. The opening drink list of 25 cocktails is a collaborative effort, featuring contributions from each of the bartenders.

You know you’re in for a good time when your night starts with a Ménage à Trois: Roger Groult Reserve Calvados, Bache Cognac, Angostura Bitters, Regan’s Orange Bitters and evaporated cane syrup. Served over a big cube in an Old Fashioned glass, this was the perfect sipper to check out the intimate space as it quickly filled up with well-wishers.

Le Dance Diable: Bache Cognac, Grenadine, Fernet, Maraschino, lemon bitters, lemon twist.

Le Catacomber: lemon, orgeat, Floc de Gascogne, Citadelle Gin, Angostura Bitters, orange twist.

Le Lapin Fou: c’est magnifique!

Then came Nader’s superb Lapin Fou (“Silly Rabbit”): eau de vie de poire (pear brandy), fresh carrot juice, fresh lemon juice, yellow chartreuse, ginger syrup, cane syrup, garnished with a cucumber ribbon. Though I have a ways to go before I get through the entire opening list, it’s going to be hard to top Le Lapin Fou, a wonderfully balanced and nuanced cocktail that actually gets even better as it opens up. Fellow imbibers seemed to agree; the bright orange cocktails were flying out of the bar at a rapid clip.

Steve Livigni

Music is an integral part of all the Houston-owned venues, and as the night went on DJs (including Livigni) stepped behind the decks to lay down a thumping house groove. A fellow bar patron commented that the loud beats didn’t seem to match the decor. I was about to agree, when as if on cue a lovely lady behind us told her friend, “I LOVE this music!” (This is why I don’t own a bar, I only drink at them.)

While there isn’t a dress code per se, like La Descarga this is a place where you’ll want to look sharp. Because of the venue’s limited capacity, Moix noted that there will be a “tight door.” That said, Pour Vous is accepting reservations for groups of eight or more. It shouldn’t be hard to find seven friends to join you in spending a midnight in Paris. But if you still need help convincing them, beginning next week, Pour Vous will be serving oysters, chocolate and cheese. Ooh la la!

Pour Vous
5574 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90004
323.871.8699
www.pourvousla.com

More photos of Pour Vous at the Thirsty in LA Facebook page.

Cocktail enthusiasts in the Valley have a place to call their own, now that Black Market Liquor Bar has opened in the former Wine Bistro space in Studio City. Cocktailians on the other side of the hill will want to make the pilgrimage to Black Market as well, thanks to a stellar drink menu created by Pablo Moix and Steve Livigni (Harvard & Stone, La Descarga). Moix and Livigni’s involvement with Black Market came about after persistent overtures from owners Mario Guddemi and Sal Aurora of The Happy Ending in Hollywood. After some discussion as to what it wouldn’t be, Black Market was simply conceived as a neighborhood bar with cocktails created by Moix and Livigni.

Once the idea to do food was broached, it was agreed that Black Market would feature a sophisticated menu to pair with the cocktails. During the team’s search for a chef, Moix overheard a conversation about Antonia Lofaso, who was competing in Top Chef All-Stars at the time. Moix already knew Lofaso, the call was made, and Black Market had its chef. Of course, if Black Market was going to have great cocktails and food, it followed that the beer and wine lists would have to match. With that in mind, certified cicerone Jace Milstead was tapped to curate Black Market’s rotating craft beer list, while Sally Kim (Terroni) is the sommelier.

Mia Sarazen

Black Market had a formidable team behind the stick for Monday night’s grand opening, including Mia Sarazen, Lacey Murillo, Tricia Alley and Ray Ewers. Sarazen and Murillo are still at Harvard & Stone and 1886, respectively; Valley imbibers can now stay local and enjoy their drinks at Black Market. Alley and Ewers, both formerly of Providence and more recently at B-Side, are at Black Market full time. Moix had long wanted to find a spot for Ewers at one of his bars, and is particularly excited about having him at Black Market. Moix will likewise be at Black Market every day, while Livigni has apparently perfected some kind of cloning technology and will be at the various bars the duo has recently opened, in addition to working on the August opening of Pour Vous.

Boulevard Sour

Sarazen started me off with a Boulevard Sour: rye, Cynar, lemon, sugar, egg white and Angostura Bitters. It doesn’t matter what area code you’re in when Sarazen is mixing your drink, it’s guaranteed you’re going to get an excellent cocktail. Case in point was this sour, nicely balanced between sweet and spicy, tart and bitter; a perfect sipper whilst I got acquainted with Black Market.

Livigni said that, other than the windows, there isn’t a square inch of the interior that hasn’t been updated from its previous incarnation. The gentle slope of the barrel vault brick ceiling is what most guests will notice first. A close second would be the multi-tiered back bar, which Moix said was custom-built around the height of the bottles. Groups can settle into old school black booths across from the bar, while couples can opt for one of the high square pedestal tables along the length of the room. At the far end of the space is the open kitchen, where guests can sit right in front of Lofaso as she expedites orders.

Punch for One

Back at the bar, the pace had started to pick up. The City Fizz (gin, lime, cucumber, mint, egg white, absinthe), Amber and Embers (Laphroaig, Clement sugar cane syrup, Angostura Bitters, Regan’s Orange Bitters), and Punch for One (Encanto Pisco, pineapple, agave, Angostura, lime) were all getting lots of love from fellow bar patrons.

Smokin' Monk

Next up was the superb Smokin’ Monk: Del Maguey Mezcal Vida, yellow chartreuse, lemon juice, orange juice and a barspoon of sugar. When Moix took a sip of my neighbor’s Smokin’ Monk, he exclaimed: “This is EXACTLY how it should taste!” Then he tried mine, and said the same thing. What did I say about Sarazen?

Fields of Gold

Not to be outdone was Murillo, who did the honors for my final round, the Fields of Gold: bourbon, lemon, orange juice, orgeat and freshly grated cinnamon. Summer is nearly here, but in the midst of June Gloom the Fields of Gold is a welcome taste of the fall. And Murillo’s cocktail was a testament to the expertise that will be working the Black Market bar on any given night.

Even though it was the first night of full service, the lively crowd and top notch drinks gave Black Market Liquor Bar the vibe of a neighborhood gem that’s been there for years. Moix noted that the opening menu is only a sampling: over thirty cocktails will eventually be featured, mostly original creations plus a few classics. With so many cocktails to explore, as well as Lofaso’s menu and its beer and wine offerings, Black Market is a welcome addition to the rapidly expanding list of L.A.’s craft cocktail destinations.

Black Market Liquor Bar is open every day at 5pm.

Black Market Liquor Bar
11915 Ventura Blvd.
Studio City, CA 91604
(818) 446-2533
blackmarketliquorbar.com

It’s a safe bet that Harvard & Stone is the only bar in the country where no one does a double take at the sight of Rosie the Riveter going to town on a burlap sack with a mallet. Now open in Thai Town, Harvard & Stone is the latest from Mark and Johnny Houston, the owners of nearby La Descarga. Harvard & Stone follows the successful model established by its sister venue: take an existing dive bar (the former Stone Bar space), give it an aged patina that evokes another era (World War II), and have Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix create a stellar bar program.

Stepping inside Harvard & Stone from Hollywood Blvd. is akin to walking into a wartime factory the Greatest Generation would find familiar. A central bar dominates the double height main room. Bottles are stored in metal baskets hanging from chains; display cages hold more bottles on the other side. Just off the entrance is a stage, which will host unannounced, impromptu music sets. A narrow platform (which appeared to be accessible only via ladder) is presumably going to feature dancers. For opening night, a DJ was set up near the foot of the staircase. The upstairs area was roped off, though it’s scheduled to open soon.

Like La Descarga, Harvard & Stone’s striking design makes excellent use of two R’s: reclaim and re-purpose. Rusted machinery, girders, exposed ducts, distressed wood and peeling walls contribute to an evocative, industrial interior. Sliding doors are used throughout, from a semi-private first floor sitting room to the restrooms. Vintage propaganda and safety posters are used as wallpaper, while metallic light fixtures and timecards continue the theme. Adding to the factory vibe is the occasional sound of hammering, thanks to the mallet-wielding bartenders crushing ice in the sacks. The only thing missing are secret underground tunnels named Tom, Dick and Harry, though I wouldn’t put anything past the ingenuity of this group.

To go with its look, Harvard & Stone will emphasize American, artisanal brands in its spirits collection and cocktail list. Livigni has assembled a top notch opening team that includes head bartender Matt Wallace, Rich Andreoli, Nathan Oliver, Francois Vera, and Harvard & Stone’s resident “Rosie,” the fabulous Mia Sarazen. The opening night cocktail list is expected to double in size over the coming weeks.

Trinidad Sour

I met my friends Amy and Lena just after Harvard & Stone officially opened its doors, and kicked things off with Baby’s First Bourbon: Bulleit Bourbon, St. Vincent Orgeat, lemon juice and Angostura Bitters. Amy began with a Trinidad Sour: Angostura Bitters, St. Vincent Orgeat, lemon juice and ROOT. Lena had the Fernet Cocktail: Fernet Branca, Canton Ginger, Carpano Antica, lime juice, Regatta ginger beer. It could be due to the crisp, chilly night but I was surprisingly into Amy and Lena’s drinks more; both had a bite and depth that mine didn’t. Baby’s First Bourbon went down almost too easily, certainly not be a bad thing if you’re in the mood.

Past a crackling fireplace is an office door labeled Break Room, which opens into a hallway and the R&D Bar, an intimate space with a monthly featured spirit and a separate cocktail menu that changes nightly. Whiskey is this month’s spirit, with gin on deck for March. On opening night, the R&D Bar showcased the whiskies of Heaven Hill Distileries, hosted by Andie Brokaw with Vera behind the stick. We pulled up a couple of barstools (made from tractor seats) to try Vera’s one-night-only menu.

For Round Two, Amy went with an Opening Night Jitters, made with Fighting Cock Bourbon, fresh lemon juice, maple syrup, rhubarb bitters and a rosemary garnish. Lena had the Ginger Sour: Evan Williams Bourbon, fresh lemon juice, ginger syrup, egg whites and freshly grated nutmeg. Brokaw suggested orange instead of lemon for the Elijah Smash, which made a world of difference: Elijah Craig 12, muddled orange, cane sugar, zest. This time I could declare victory for Best in Round, though a slim one over the enjoyable funk of the Jitters and Lena’s rich, tangy Sour. Vera later made a Manhattan with Rittenhouse 100, a classic that somehow felt so right in the gritty space. (Of course, if I could have a well-made Manhattan at a car wash I’d still say it felt right, but I digress.)

As the night went on, bartenders from all over town stopped by to check out the new kid on the block, including Julian Cox, Aidan Demarest, Giovanni Martinez, Lindsay Nader, Naomi Schimek, Juan Sevilla, Devon Tarby and Marcos Tello. Cox even stepped behind the bar briefly, before an instant crush of excited guests sent him right back to the other side.

Scaffa No. 1

Near the end of the night, Livigni suggested an off-menu variation of the Scaffa No. 1 (Aviation Gin, Benedictine, Angostura Bitters), with aquavit in place of the gin. Served neat, the room temperature cocktail had a nice spice and character for a deceptively simple drink. As a sipper it was perfect for hanging outside on the smoking patio/alley.

Harvard & Stone is certain to be another hit for the La Descarga crew, transporting Angelenos with a lively mix of cocktails, music and nostalgia served up in an exceptionally designed venue.

Harvard & Stone is open every night at 8pm.

Harvard & Stone
5221 Hollywood Blvd. (at N. Harvard)
Los Angeles, CA 90027
(323) 466-6063
www.harvardandstone.com

Update 2/25: Mia Sarazen (aka Sledgehammer Gaga) will be in the R&D Bar tonight (Feb. 25) with her exclusive whiskey cocktail menu. Be sure to stop by and wish her luck before she and Jennifer Contraveos head to New York for the 42 Below Cocktail World Cup Nationals!

More coverage of Harvard & Stone:

• Brand X
• Caroline on Crack
• e*star LA
• Squid Ink

Oliver Jones mixes his winning cocktail, the Myrtle Berry Flip.

Oliver Jones has been named the winner of the 2010 Jimmy Barela Award, which honors the legendary bartender who held court at Cole’s Red Car Bar for 65 years. Jones, who can be found behind the stick at Las Perlas and Tengu (Westwood), bested eleven other competitors in a cocktail showdown that took place at The Varnish on Repeal Day.

Myrtle Berry Flip

A native of Oxford, England, Jones has explored cuisines and spirits around the world, thanks to a lifelong love of travel passed down from his parents. Whether he’s drinking genever in Holland or airag (fermented mare’s milk) in Mongolia, Jones is always on the hunt for new ingredients to use in his recipes. He constantly experiments with new types of infusions; “the weirder the better,” as he puts it.

Jones also seeks out forgotten herbs and spices and exotic spirits not yet popularized in the Western world. Case in point is his winning recipe for the Myrtle Berry Flip, which features Tremontis Mirto, a unique Sardinian liqueur made by macerating myrtle berries. Known throughout the Mediterranean since ancient times, the myrtle was used for everything from medicine to wedding rituals. In mythology, the myrtle was associated with Venus and other goddesses. Whether its supposed aphrodisiac properties had anything to do with Jones winning the competition, one can only guess.

To be considered for the competition, cocktail recipes had to use at least 1.5 ounces of Plymouth Gin and use no more than 5 ingredients (excluding garnish). At The Varnish, each competitor had to make four cocktails in 10 minutes: 3 were used for the blind judging, and 1 was for photo ops and guests to sample. The esteemed members of the judging panel were Varnish GM Chris Bostick, Erick Castro (West Coast Brand Ambassador, Plymouth and Beefeater Gins), Jessica Gelt (LA Times), and Jonathan Gold (LA Weekly).

During the three-hour event, an impressive variety of entries were sent out to the judges. While bars from 213 Nightlife were well represented (Bob Nickerson from Cole’s, Matt Wallace of Seven Grand), it was nice to see competitors from all over town (e.g. Buffalo Club’s Giovanni Martinez, Roger Room’s Jason Bran) in the mix.

Pablo Moix went all-out with his West Indies Winter Punch.

Some were familiar names from favorite bars, such as Pablo Moix (La Descarga), Devon Tarby (The Varnish), and Julian Wayser (Caña). Tricia Alley (Providence) and Jennifer Contraveos (SoHo House West Hollywood) were new to me and are on my radar after Sunday. Pablo went all-out with his West Indies Winter Punch, which was served to the judges in a ceramic punch bowl mounted atop a pedestal. Naomi Schimek (First & Hope) presented her Remembrance cocktails in vintage glassware and decorated the serving tray with a pear and rosemary to match her ingredients.

Naomi Schimek served her Remembrance cocktails in vintage glassware.

The competition winners were announced to the public at the Seven Grand Repeal Day Celebration later that night: Jones won $500 for first place, Naomi got a pair of Clippers tickets for placing second (sadly, it’s not a Lakers game), and Garrett McKechnie (1886) took home a Plymouth bar kit for third place. Congrats to the winners, many thanks to everyone who participated, and cheers to Eric Alperin for hosting the competition.

Garrett McKechnie puts the finishing touches on his Molly Pitcher Club Cocktail.

THE MYRTLE BERRY FLIP by Oliver Jones

• 2 oz. Plymouth Gin
• ¾ oz. lemon juice
• 1 egg white
• ¾ oz. Tremontis Mirto
• 3 bar spoons organic Blueberry jam
• Shake and double-strain into a chilled coupe glass.
• Garnish with a sprig of myrtle.

Remembrance

REMEMBRANCE by Naomi Schimek

• ¾ oz. lemon juice
• 1 oz. rosemary syrup
• ¼ oz. bianco vermouth
• 1 oz. pear-infused sherry
• 1½ oz. Plymouth Gin
• Shake and double-strain into a 5 oz. coupe glass.
• Garnish with a sprig of rosemary.

The Molly Pitcher Club Cocktail

THE MOLLY PITCHER CLUB COCKTAIL by Garrett McKechnie

• Dash of Whiskey Barrel Bitters
• ¾ oz. homemade pineapple demerara syrup
• ¾ oz. lemon juice
• 2 oz. Plymouth Gin
• Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
• Garnish with star anise and fresh grated cinnamon.
• Finish with a light absinthe spray.

On Thursday, December 9th, La Descarga is debuting its Winter Cocktail Menu, an extensive list of 21 drinks from Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix. The Winter Menu is evenly divided between Classics and House Cocktails, including a whiskey barrel-aged version of its excellent Tapping the Admiral that should be ready just in time for the launch. Early arrival suggested, because I might finish the whole batch myself.

La Descarga
1159 N. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029
(323) 466-1324
www.ladescargala.com

LA DESCARGA CLASSIC COCKTAILS

MOJITO

• BACARDI SUPERIOR
• LIME JUICE
• SUPER FINE SUGAR
• SODA WATER
• MINT LEAVES

DAQUIRI

• BACARDI 8 YEAR
• FRESH LIME JUICE
• SUPER FINE SUGAR

HEMINGWAY DAQUIRI

• BACARDI 1909
• LUXARDO MARASCHINO
• GRAPEFRUIT JUICE
• LIME JUICE

MARY PICKFORD

• STARR RUM
• PINEAPPLE JUICE
• LUXARDO MARASCHINO
• GRENADINE

CORA MIDDLETON

• APPLETON RESERVE RUM
• RASPBERRY SYRUP
• LEMON JUICE
• SUPER FINE SUGAR
• EGG WHITE
• LEMON ZEST AND ANGOSTURA BITTERS

SLOE GIN FIZZ

• PLYMOUTH GIN
• PLYMOUTH SLOE GIN
• LEMON JUICE
• CHINESE 5 SPICE SIMPLE SYRUP
• EGG WHITE
• FRESH CINNAMON

TWELVE MILE LIMIT

• EL DORADO 3 YEAR
• HENNESSEY VSOP
• OLD OVERHOLT RYE
• GRENADINE
• LEMON JUICE

CUBA LIBRE

• ZAYA RUM
• LIME JUICE
• MEXICAN COKE

DARK & STORMY

• GOSLINGS BLACK SEAL
• LIME JUICE
• REGATTA GINGER BEER

IMPERIAL PRINCE OF WALES

• HENNESSEY VSOP COGNAC
• BENEDICTINE
• CASSIA RUM BITTERS
• SUPER FINE SUGAR
• SIESTA SPARKLING WINE

LA DESCARGA HOUSE COCKTAILS

LA PASSOA

• RON MATUSALEM PLATINO
• PASSOA LIQUEUR
• LIME JUICE
• ORANGE JUICE
• VELVET FALERNUM
• ORGEAT SYRUP
• LEMON HART 151

DAQUIRI NO. 7

• FLOR DE CANA 7 YEAR
• ORANGE JUICE
• LIME JUICE
• SUPER FINE SUGAR

THE LAST STARR

• STARR RUM
• LIME
• GREEN CHARTREUSE
• MARASCHINO LIQUEUR

THE CASTILIAN

• BACARDI ANEJO
• PEYCHAUD BITTERS
• SUGAR CUBE
• AGUARDIENTE RINSE

THE JAM SESSION

• RHUM J.M. BLANC 80 PROOF
• LEMON JUICE
• HONEY SYRUP

THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

• BATTAVIA ARRACK
• AVERNA AMARO
• GRAN CLASSICO
• ANGOSTURA ORANGE BITTERS

TEQUILA BANANA

• HERRADURA BLANCO
• BRIOTTET BANANA LIQUEUR
• GRAPEFRUIT JUICE
• MAPLE SYRUP

TAPPING THE ADMIRAL (BARREL AGED)

• ZAYA RUM
• CHERRY HEERING
• CARPANO ANTICA
• ANGOSTURA BITTERS

L.A. LUPE

• LEBLON CACHACA
• LIME JUICE
• ST.VINCENTS COCONUT GOODNESS
• VELVET FALERNUM
• TONIC

OTONO SWIZZLE

• HAUTE VODKA
• LEMON JUICE
• MAPLE SYRUP
• CAVA
• CUCUMBER

HAVANA MOBSTER

• RITTENHOUSE RYE
• LEMON JUICE
• ORANGE JUICE
• GRENADINE

Mmm...Michelada...

So who is Bricia, and why should every bar have one, you may ask? Allow me introduce you to Bricia Lopez, who owns (along with her brother Fernando) Cemitas y Clayudas Pal Cabron, a Oaxacan hole-in-the-wall in Huntington Park that features “the king of Mexican Sandwiches (Cemitas), Oaxacan Pizzas (Clayudas) and the O.G. Micheladas.” Bricia’s family owns Guelaguetza, which Jonathan Gold praises as “the midtown chainlet that pretty much defined Oaxacan cooking in Los Angeles.”

Brisa de Oaxaca at La Descarga

Bricia Lopez, thinking about...

But it was Bricia’s love of mezcal and her enthusiastic support of some of our city’s finest cocktail dens that led to the ultimate tribute: having a cocktail named after her. That would be the Brisa de Oaxaca, which debuted last month at La Descarga. With Bricia as his inspiration, Pablo Moix created a cocktail made with Del Maguey Mezcal Vida, Yellow Chartreuse, lime juice, orange juice and a barspoon of sugar. The mixture is shaken, strained, and served in a coupe. The result is a bright and smoky cocktail that captures the spirit of its muse.

Not to be outdone, Jason Schiffer (320 Main, Seal Beach) came up with his own tribute cocktail, the Sweet Bricia: Mezcal Vida, Sino Tequila, apricot liqueur, crème de cassis, citrus juice and nutmeg, served in a highball over chipped ice. In his OC Weekly review of 320 Main’s happy hour, Dave Lieberman says the Sweet Bricia is “an outstanding, slightly smoky, slightly earthy creation.”

A couple of days ago, Raul Yrastorza added a Featured Cocktail to the menu at Las Perlas, simply named the Bricia. His cocktail features Mezcal Vida, lemon juice, wildflower honey, a barspoon of orange marmalade, egg white, Angostura Bitters, topped with pico de gallo. Quite a cornucopia of flavors, and no doubt another libation worthy of its name. Bricia has already given her stamp of approval to the first two tributes; she plans to visit Las Perlas in the very near future.

And after Bricia has properly christened her latest namesake, who will be the next mixologist to create a Bricia cocktail? Surely someone from LA’s roster of bar stars will take the baton from Raul and run with the mezcal? Stay tuned…

June 11: World Cup Kickoff at Guelaguetza

Are You Ready for Some Fútbol?

Bricia is definitely ready: she just installed a massive 150″ screen at Guelaguetza specifically for the World Cup. The K-town restaurant will be screening all games after 7am throughout the month of June. To get the month started properly, Bricia will be hosting a World Cup Kickoff Party in the wee hours of Friday morning.

Real Mexicano

For the festivities, Guelaguetza will feature a $5 special on Micheladas, the signature beer cocktail made with Pacifico, fresh lime, hot sauce and Maggi, rimmed with imported agave worm chile salt. Also available for $5: House Margaritas with Real de Mexico Tequila; and the Real Mexicano cocktail, made with Real de Mexico tequila, pineapple, cilantro, jalapeño, lime juice and agave nectar.

World Cup Kickoff Party
Friday, June 11, 2010
Starting at 5am
Food and drink specials

Guelaguetza Restaurant
3014 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90006
(213) 427-0608‎
www.guelaguetzarestaurante.com

Photos courtesy Bricia Lopez.

“My mojito in La Bodeguita, My daiquiri in El Floridita.” ~ Ernest Hemingway

Hemingway’s handwritten tribute to his favorite cocktails can be found at La Bodeguita del Medio, one of his regular haunts in Havana. Papa would no doubt feel right at home at La Descarga, the East Hollywood bar that opened last Tuesday to great acclaim. La Descarga is a collaboration between brothers Mark and Johnnie Houston, Steve Livigni (former GM at the Doheny), and Pablo Moix (Bacardi portfolio mixologist, previously at STK). Having missed the opening night bash, I was eager to visit the rum-centric bar for myself. Thankfully, fellow Drunken Army officer Caroline on Crack was way ahead of me and invited me to meet her at La Descarga last Friday.

I arrived early for Caroline’s reservation time, but rather than make me wait, the friendly doorman promptly waved me in. Once inside, I was greeted by the lovely hostess, who showed me to the entrance of the bar proper. I crossed the threshold and suddenly I was in the Old Havana of pre-Castro Cuba. Gazing down on the main room, it’s instantly apparent that La Descarga is a looker: a handmade, double-height bar dominates one wall, while wrought iron railings, antique sconces, and imported Cuban tile add to the authentic, immersive experience. Touches of beautiful decay give the space an aged look of bygone glory, from the dilapidated ceiling to faded wall paint.

Tapping the Admiral

I sat down at the bar and ordered a Tapping the Admiral ($13): Zaya rum, Carpano Antica, Cherry Heering and bitters. My cocktail was mixed by Deborah Stoll (Squid Ink), who told me the Admiral was her favorite on the menu. It’s easy to see why: the vanilla and coffee notes of the Zaya (distilled from molasses and aged 12 years), the sweet vermouth and black cherries, and a hint of smoke at the finish were a potent combination. It was a delicious cocktail and a promising start to a great evening.

Although the specialty cocktail menu only has rum-based drinks, plans call for non-rum cocktails to be featured as well. You can also choose from a list of 70 rums, or a smaller selection of whiskies and other spirits if rum doesn’t do it for you. Rum flights will be available shortly, but for now you can sip your spirits neat in the cigar lounge, a more intimate space located down a hallway from the main room.

By this time, Caroline and her boyfriend had arrived. Caroline suggested we grab a few seats opposite the bar, which turned out to be an excellent idea as the bar quickly filled up. For her first cocktail, Caroline ordered the Honey Swizzle ($12), featuring the anise-flavored Aguardiente Cristal. The anise was present, but it didn’t dominate; the cocktail was a nice balance between sweet and citrus.

Pappa's Daquiri

Next up for me was Pappa’s Daquiri ($10), made with Bacardi Carta Blanca, Maraschino Liqueur and grapefruit. The flavor profile was surprising: initially strong with citrus and tartness, which then segued into an unexpected smokiness. Very enjoyable and a nice way to follow the Tapping the Admiral. Caroline’s second drink was the signature La Descarga Daquiri ($9), made with Diplomatico Anejo Rum, lime and sugar. Smooth and dangerously drinkable. Like the El Floridita daiquiris Hemingway wrote about in Islands in the Stream, our second round cocktails ”had no taste of alcohol and felt, as you drank them, the way downhill glacier skiing feels running through powder snow.”

On separate occasions, Steve and Pablo sat with us to share the thought processes that went into the cocktail menu and interior design, the happy circumstances that brought the team together, and their ambitious plans for the future. We’re very interested to find out what they’re going to do with an adjacent 2,000 sq.ft. space, which nearly doubles the bar’s overall capacity.

Steve especially wanted to set the matter straight on a couple of points about La Descarga:

• Reservations – are not required, but encouraged. Walk-ins are welcome, but if they’re at capacity they don’t want to keep guests waiting outside on Western. Don’t be flaky, though; if you break a couple of reservations without letting them know, your number goes on the blackball list. Just plan ahead, friends.
• Dress code – though not explicitly stated, it’s the usual no shorts, flip-flops, or baseball caps policy found at upscale establishments. In fact, they’re encouraging guests to really dress up. On Friday we saw a few couples who did just that; hopefully more will follow as word gets out.

Pablo mentioned an upcoming creation called the Next Level: a cocktail made from a hollowed-out ice ball, resting on a bed of crushed ice, with straws for imbibing. If you think that sounds amazing, check out an image of the Next Level in this slideshow from LA Times Magazine. Pablo also told us that, besides the rum flights, punch bowls will be on the menu soon.

Beginning at 10pm, and hourly throughout the night, a brief show takes over the venue. As the percussion set the rhythm, a dancer and sax player performed a sensual duet. The dancer made her way to the floor, interacting with seducing guests before returning to the mezzanine. According to Steve, the show gets more risqué as the night progresses. By the time the band returned for its second set, couples were dancing to the piped-in music, raising the energy and noise to higher and higher levels.

A dip will do ya at La Descarga.

My final cocktail of the night was the Tropical Holiday ($12), made with Rhum JM Blanc, Velvet Falernum, lime, sugar, soda and bitters. Unfortunately, this was the only sour (or should I say bitter?) note of the night. We couldn’t figure out where the mix went wrong, only that something about it was funky. (And don’t get me wrong, I like the funk; I may be the only blogger in town that likes The Tar Pit’s Trident.) Two palates I trust, Food GPS and e*star LA, raved about the Tropical Holiday in their reviews, so I know I’ll give it another go next time.

Missing from that night’s cocktail menu was the Bad Spaniard, which the LA Times calls “a guilty pleasure made with Cruzan Blackstrap Rum, Amaro Averna, sweetened condensed milk, one whole egg yolk and cinnamon.” It should be available this week, as good a reason as any to pay a return visit.

As we left La Descarga and stepped into a light rain, my thoughts returned to Hemingway’s note; what would he jot down if he were in 21st century Los Angeles? I have a feeling it would be something like this: “My mojito and my daiquiri in La Descarga.”

La Descarga
1159 N. Western Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90029
(323) 466-1324
www.ladescargala.com

8pm-2am
Tuesday-Saturday
Reservations encouraged.

Be sure to check out Caroline on Crack’s recap of the night at La Descarga (with video!).

More reviews and impressions of La Descarga:

• Food GPS
• e*star LA
• LA Times

Extra Credit
For more on Hemingway in Cuba, you can read “The Old Man and the Daiquiri” by Wayne Curtis (author of And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails) and the Havana chapter of Michael Palin’s Hemingway Adventure.

Before recapping a busy January 2010 (see below) let’s take one last look at December 2009 and the decade that was.

In its Dec. 29th edition, the NY Times published A Decade of Invention and Reinvention, its look at mixology trends of the decade. Topping the list is the Gin-Gin Mule, the gin-based take on the Moscow Mule created by Audrey Saunders (Pegu Club). It’s now on cocktail menus across the country, and here in L.A. you can get the definitive version at Saunders’ Tar Pit. Another new classic is PDT’s Benton Old-Fashioned, created in 2007 by Don Lee. New York Magazine posted the PDT recipe in its April 14, 2008 issue. LAist recently posted the recipe for a local version, Little Dom’s Bacon Old Fashioned. Finally, The Varnish is name-checked in the “Bartender’s Choice” trend, a cocktail menu option that’s resulted from bartenders raising “their level of skill and scholarship” and customers having “an increased sense of adventure” and a willingness to put their drink choices in bartenders’ hands.

Trident - The Tar Pit

In his Best Dishes of 2009, Jonathan Gold says an Aviation is always his first drink of the evening at The Varnish, “a civilized temple of spirits where bliss is measured out by the dram.” Mr. Gold also lists the beer float at Golden State, a “mind-blowing way to complete a meal, all cold creaminess and explosive fizz, innocent sweetness and a blast of pungent, hoppy bitterness.”

Just in time for New Year’s Eve, the LA Times published an article on sherry cocktails, including recipes for the Montresor & Fortunato (the Roger Room), the Golden Boy (the Bazaar), and the Trident (the Tar Pit).

Speaking of December 31st, if you want to relive some of the downtown festivities (or just need help remembering), the LA Weekly posted a NYE Downtown Crawl slideshow that includes images from The Varnish, Cole’s, and Seven Grand.

~

And, now…on to 2010!

The January 2010 issue of LA Times Magazine features several versions of sangrita to pair with high-end tequila, including recipes from Julian Cox and Jennifer Stockley.

“I travel the whole U.S. right now with what I’m doing, and probably the most exciting (cocktail) scene at the moment is in Los Angeles.” ~ Charlotte Voisey

Mutineer #9

The preceding quote can be found in the current issue of Mutineer Magazine (#9, Jan-Feb), in an interview with Portfolio Ambassador Charlotte Voisey (William Grant & Sons). She also says Los Angeles is “just on fire” and notes the city’s “great history during Prohibition.” Also in the issue, blogger Marvin Gapultos (Burnt Lumpia) offers an in-depth look at at The Pharmacie, the roving underground cocktail party. The article is accompanied by original paintings from Brent Estabrook.

Musso & Frank recently celebrated its 90th birthday, and to mark the occasion NPR’s Weekend Edition Sunday aired this story on January 3rd. Later that week, the LA Times published an interview with Musso & Frank owner Jordan Jones, who discusses some of the changes coming to the venerable Hollywood restaurant now that his family has sole control of the business. Not to be missed is a related article that profiles Musso’s bartender Ruben Rueda.

On January 10, the NY Times posted a review of the Roger Room, describing it as “a place of reverse snobbery, where you go to avoid running into celebrities and their ear-pierced bodyguards.” The article then notes that Cameron Diaz and Fiona Apple are regulars, which is not only contradictory but, frankly, somewhat disappointing.

Each year, the online magazine StarChefs names its Rising Stars, up-and-coming chefs and culinary professionals who “represent the vanguard of the contemporary American dining scene.” On January 11, StarChefs announced its 2010 Los Angeles-San Diego Rising Stars, including mixologists Eric Alperin (The Varnish) and Julian Cox (Rivera).

Also this month, StarChefs posted its overview of the Los Angeles mixology scene, with cocktail recipes:

• Gin Fix by Eric Alperin (The Varnish)
• Fields of Gold by Joel Black (The Doheny)
• Whisky Smash by Tristan Price (Café Pierre)
• Four Aces by Damian Windsor (The Roger Room)

Given the amount of praise he’s received in the last several months, Matthew Biancaniello (the Roosevelt Hotel) might have to start preparing his own Rising Star speech. On January 15, the Daily Dish posted a feature on his latest creations for the Library Bar: cocktails served in eggshells. To go with the article, the Times includes his Indian Summer cocktail recipe.

Last week, LA Times Magazine posted a preview of La Descarga, the rum-centric bar set to open on Western this Tuesday, February 2nd. Shortly thereafter, Eater LA and Thrillist had sneak peeks of their own online. The drink menu is overseen by Pablo Moix (Portfolio Mixologist for Bacardi USA) and Steve Livigni (the Doheny), featuring cocktails such as Papa’s Daiquiri, Tapping the Admiral, and the Bad Spaniard. The “secret entrance” and reservations-only policy (made via e-mail) are reminiscent of San Francisco’s Bourbon & Branch; here’s hoping the cocktails justify the comparisons.

Food & Wine Feb. 2010

The January 29th issue of LA Weekly features Steve Julian’s profile of Julian Cox. You can listen to interview excerpts at Offramp on KPCC.

The latest issue of Food & Wine (Feb. 2010) features a “Invent Your Own Cocktail” party, with cocktails by Eric Alperin and food by Jason Travi (Fraiche). Elsewhere in the issue, “The New Cocktail Boutique” rounds up the new breed of cocktail shop, including L.A.’s own Bar Keeper. And don’t miss the Belgian beers paired with Asian dishes from the upcoming Lukshon, courtesy of Sang Yoon (Father’s Office).