Before recapping a busy January 2010 (see below) let’s take one last look at December 2009 and the decade that was.

In its Dec. 29th edition, the NY Times published A Decade of Invention and Reinvention, its look at mixology trends of the decade. Topping the list is the Gin-Gin Mule, the gin-based take on the Moscow Mule created by Audrey Saunders (Pegu Club). It’s now on cocktail menus across the country, and here in L.A. you can get the definitive version at Saunders’ Tar Pit. Another new classic is PDT’s Benton Old-Fashioned, created in 2007 by Don Lee. New York Magazine posted the PDT recipe in its April 14, 2008 issue. LAist recently posted the recipe for a local version, Little Dom’s Bacon Old Fashioned. Finally, The Varnish is name-checked in the “Bartender’s Choice” trend, a cocktail menu option that’s resulted from bartenders raising “their level of skill and scholarship” and customers having “an increased sense of adventure” and a willingness to put their drink choices in bartenders’ hands.

Trident - The Tar Pit

In his Best Dishes of 2009, Jonathan Gold says an Aviation is always his first drink of the evening at The Varnish, “a civilized temple of spirits where bliss is measured out by the dram.” Mr. Gold also lists the beer float at Golden State, a “mind-blowing way to complete a meal, all cold creaminess and explosive fizz, innocent sweetness and a blast of pungent, hoppy bitterness.”

Just in time for New Year’s Eve, the LA Times published an article on sherry cocktails, including recipes for the Montresor & Fortunato (the Roger Room), the Golden Boy (the Bazaar), and the Trident (the Tar Pit).

Speaking of December 31st, if you want to relive some of the downtown festivities (or just need help remembering), the LA Weekly posted a NYE Downtown Crawl slideshow that includes images from The Varnish, Cole’s, and Seven Grand.

~

And, now…on to 2010!

The January 2010 issue of LA Times Magazine features several versions of sangrita to pair with high-end tequila, including recipes from Julian Cox and Jennifer Stockley.

“I travel the whole U.S. right now with what I’m doing, and probably the most exciting (cocktail) scene at the moment is in Los Angeles.” ~ Charlotte Voisey

Mutineer #9

The preceding quote can be found in the current issue of Mutineer Magazine (#9, Jan-Feb), in an interview with Portfolio Ambassador Charlotte Voisey (William Grant & Sons). She also says Los Angeles is “just on fire” and notes the city’s “great history during Prohibition.” Also in the issue, blogger Marvin Gapultos (Burnt Lumpia) offers an in-depth look at at The Pharmacie, the roving underground cocktail party. The article is accompanied by original paintings from Brent Estabrook.

Musso & Frank recently celebrated its 90th birthday, and to mark the occasion NPR’s Weekend Edition Sunday aired this story on January 3rd. Later that week, the LA Times published an interview with Musso & Frank owner Jordan Jones, who discusses some of the changes coming to the venerable Hollywood restaurant now that his family has sole control of the business. Not to be missed is a related article that profiles Musso’s bartender Ruben Rueda.

On January 10, the NY Times posted a review of the Roger Room, describing it as “a place of reverse snobbery, where you go to avoid running into celebrities and their ear-pierced bodyguards.” The article then notes that Cameron Diaz and Fiona Apple are regulars, which is not only contradictory but, frankly, somewhat disappointing.

Each year, the online magazine StarChefs names its Rising Stars, up-and-coming chefs and culinary professionals who “represent the vanguard of the contemporary American dining scene.” On January 11, StarChefs announced its 2010 Los Angeles-San Diego Rising Stars, including mixologists Eric Alperin (The Varnish) and Julian Cox (Rivera).

Also this month, StarChefs posted its overview of the Los Angeles mixology scene, with cocktail recipes:

• Gin Fix by Eric Alperin (The Varnish)
• Fields of Gold by Joel Black (The Doheny)
• Whisky Smash by Tristan Price (Café Pierre)
• Four Aces by Damian Windsor (The Roger Room)

Given the amount of praise he’s received in the last several months, Matthew Biancaniello (the Roosevelt Hotel) might have to start preparing his own Rising Star speech. On January 15, the Daily Dish posted a feature on his latest creations for the Library Bar: cocktails served in eggshells. To go with the article, the Times includes his Indian Summer cocktail recipe.

Last week, LA Times Magazine posted a preview of La Descarga, the rum-centric bar set to open on Western this Tuesday, February 2nd. Shortly thereafter, Eater LA and Thrillist had sneak peeks of their own online. The drink menu is overseen by Pablo Moix (Portfolio Mixologist for Bacardi USA) and Steve Livigni (the Doheny), featuring cocktails such as Papa’s Daiquiri, Tapping the Admiral, and the Bad Spaniard. The “secret entrance” and reservations-only policy (made via e-mail) are reminiscent of San Francisco’s Bourbon & Branch; here’s hoping the cocktails justify the comparisons.

Food & Wine Feb. 2010

The January 29th issue of LA Weekly features Steve Julian’s profile of Julian Cox. You can listen to interview excerpts at Offramp on KPCC.

The latest issue of Food & Wine (Feb. 2010) features a “Invent Your Own Cocktail” party, with cocktails by Eric Alperin and food by Jason Travi (Fraiche). Elsewhere in the issue, “The New Cocktail Boutique” rounds up the new breed of cocktail shop, including L.A.’s own Bar Keeper. And don’t miss the Belgian beers paired with Asian dishes from the upcoming Lukshon, courtesy of Sang Yoon (Father’s Office).

Related posts:

1. All the Booze That's Fit to Print – Summer 2009
2. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – February 2010
3. All the Booze That’s Fit to Print – Fall 2009

According to Editor Mary Melton, the article is intended to “herald the return of the bar—not the velvet-rope animal of yore but the chummy neighborhood pubs, crowded wine bars, and fanciful cocktail emporiums that now constitute our nightlife.” With that in mind, the story covers 15 bars, divided into three sections: Cocktail Bars, Wine Bars, and Local Bars.

The Cocktail Bar section is spot on, featuring Rivera, Bar Centro, Roger Room, the Varnish, and Copa d’Oro. Other than Bar Centro, they’re all personal faves and places I’d highly recommend to anyone. As interesting and unique as Bar Centro is, I don’t go there regularly and can’t really say it’s a favorite. LA magazine certainly likes Bar Centro; in last month’s Best of LA issue Bar Centro was crowned with the city’s Best Manhattan.

The Local Bars list is great as well, including Tony’s, Laurel Tavern, Wurstküche, and Verdugo Bar. Tony’s and Wurstküche are pretty close to each other and are regular stops on my downtown excursions. The Arts District is very lucky to have them both! Also listed is Simmzy’s, which I haven’t been to but will definitely check out the next time I’m in Manhattan Beach.

Besides the capsule reviews, there are nice sidebars like the Varnish’s Marcos Tello demonstrating how to make a Sazerac, and Musso & Frank’s Manny Aguirre critiquing a few classic cocktails at Seven Grand, the Edison, and Mandrake.

All in all, it’s a fun read and well worth checking out.

Best New Bars
Los Angeles Magazine
September 2009
On sale now
www.lamag.com

Related posts:

1. All the Booze That's Fit to Print – Summer 2009
2. 10 Los Angeles Bars in Food & Wine's Top 100
3. Esquire's Best Bars in America

Not an actual Roger Room monkey.

After a solid cocktail session at 8oz Burger Bar, we were ready for more and headed over to the Roger Room. Located next to Largo in the space formerly occupied by the Coronet Pub, the Roger Room is the latest from the Bar Lubitsch team of Jared Meisler and partner Sean MacPherson. When it opened last month, much ado was made about the Roger Room’s “media embargo” and strict no photography policy. Blogs, Twitter, and Yelp have since posted freely about the Roger Room, though taking photos still isn’t permitted as far as I know.

Although there’s no Roger Room signage (shh…it’s a speakeasy), the Largo’s “THEATRE” sign next door is easy to spot, as are the storefront fortune teller neon signs. You’ll also notice the friendly neighborhood bouncer monitoring the Roger Room’s entrance. A black curtain separates the front door from the main room, and upon entering you actually feel like you’ve stumbled upon a secret watering hole, frozen in time. Throughout the dimly-lit room, circus-themed painted panels, stained glass windows, antique fixtures and yellowed photographs set a playful yet vintage mood. The colorful menus, decorated with whimsical polka dots, also stick with the theme. Thankfully the music breaks out of the circus, opting instead for a nice old school funk/soul vibe.

While Scot ordered our drinks, I snagged one of the small booths lining the wall opposite the bar. Other tables on the far end of the room were continuously occupied. A couple of water tumblers magically appeared, a nice touch and very much appreciated on this night.

Reversing our 8oz plan of attack, I ordered Roger Room signature cocktails (created by Meisler and the ubiquitous Damian Windsor) while Scot mostly stuck to classics. First up for me was the Thug: Maker’s Mark Bourbon, Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur, lemon juice and spicy habanero bitters. It’s aptly named; I was knocked for a loop by the Thug’s wicked mix of smoky, spicy and sweet flavors. While not overpowering, the Thug certainly packs a punch.

Meanwhile, Scot left his cocktail choice in the expert hands of Tai, our knowledgeable and amiable bartender. Tai’s refreshing take on a Bourbon Smash was very close to a Mint Julep (which is technically a Smash, after all), omitting the berries seen in more traditional Bourbon Smashes. For both of us, a great first round.

By now the noise level had risen considerably, to the point where we were shouting across a very small table. After our 8oz experience, we were starting to sense a theme. Considering the Roger Room’s “speakeasy” pretensions, you’d almost expect a “quiet, please” policy, but even if there was one I doubt any of the bartenders could be bothered to enforce it. Not to mention the hipster crowd would probably revolt if there was such a rule.

On to Round Two, and for me that meant an Old Sport: CapRock Organic Dry Gin, black tea-infused SOHO lychee liqueur, cucumber juice, and lime juice, served up. Another great cocktail, with a flavor mix that started with the bitterness of the black tea and moved onto the clean, fruit/floral notes of the CapRock,  balanced with the lychee and juices. Returning to the circus theme, a cucumber slice was playfully hooked onto the glass by a plastic monkey.

Speaking of monkeys, one of the busboys could have been Brad Pitt’s younger brother. Or Pitt himself, circa “12 Monkeys.” These are the things that come to mind after a Thug and an Old Sport. But I digress…

Scot opted for an Old Fashioned, his go-to classic cocktail, for his second round. This time he specified Buffalo Trace, a mutual favorite of ours. Once again, perfectly executed by Tai; we were feeling good and two for two.

For Round Three, I had a Spiced Mule (Saylor Jerry Spiced Rum, ginger juice, lime juice, vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, club soda, rocks), an outstanding drink that offers a flavor grab bag of spice and ginger, with a tart finish. This was the consensus drink of the night, and that includes our previous cocktails at 8oz.

Scot finished with a Scarlet Aperol Fizz (Scarlet Ibis Rum, Aperol, lemon juice, egg white, crushed ice), a frothy creation with nuanced floral and caramel flavors, offset by hints of bitter and tart notes. Both Round Three drinks were top notch, a fantastic way to end an excellent session.

The cocktails at the Roger Room are up there with the city’s best, placing it in the top tier of bars alongside The Varnish and Copa d’Oro. Cocktail enthusiasts have already made the Roger Room the worst kept secret in town, but if you plan ahead crowds shouldn’t be an issue. As with the best things in life, it’s worth the effort.

The Roger Room
370 N La Cienega Blvd. (@ Oakwood Ave.)
Los Angeles, CA 90048
(310) 854-1300

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1. Cocktails Carry Their Weight at 8oz Burger Bar
2. Welcome to the Neighborhood: The Parlour Room of Hollywood Opens
3. July 13: Radio Room at the Edison Celebrates Manhattan