Zahra Bates kicked out the jams to raise funds for Japan.

Downtown is still be the place to be when it comes to the greatest concentration of craft cocktail bars in Los Angeles, but Hollywood is making some noise of its own. The latest to join the burgeoning Hollywood cocktail scene is B-Side, an intimate speakeasy-style bar tucked within the Rolling Stone Restaurant & Lounge at the Hollywood & Highland Center. Accessed from a nondescript door off Highland Avenue, the dimly-lit, industrial lounge has a vaguely post-apocalyptic vibe that feels more Road Warrior than Rolling Stone. With a drink menu developed by Ryan Magarian (Liquid Relations) and bar manager Tricia Alley, B-Side was already on the radar of the cocktail cognoscenti when it opened in March. Alley turned up the volume by launching a weekly guest mixologist night, which takes place at B-Side every Wednesday. Guests so far have included Naomi Schimek (The Spare Room), Marcos Tello (Tello Demarest Liquid Assets), and Jason Bran (Roger Room).

Last Wednesday, B-Side welcomed L.A.’s “Aphrodite of spirits,” Zahra Bates of Providence. The event was a fundraiser for Japan relief: Bates donated her earnings and a portion of the bar’s proceeds went to the Red Cross for its ongoing efforts. The L.A. cocktail community came out in force to show support, with Joel Black, Daniel Nelson, Schimek and Bran among those who stopped by during the night.

Bamboo Gen

For her guest gig, Bates featured a selection of “greatest hits” from some of L.A.’s best bartenders, including Matt Biancaniello’s Kentucky Bubble Bath, Pancho’s Smoking Gun by Brent Falco, and Alley’s own Suds in a Bucket. After reviewing the impressive chalkboard menu (complete with a portrait of Bates), I ordered one of Bates’ signature cocktails, the Bamboo Gen: Bols Genever, Tokaji, Manzanilla sherry and shiso bitters. As Bates handed me the Bamboo Gen, she said that it “tastes like a sour but there’s no citrus.” Sure enough, the malty genever, sweet Hungarian wine, delicately floral sherry and gingery shiso melded into a unique profile akin to a sour. A wonderful cocktail to kick off the fundraising session.

Next was the Ode to Aud, Naomi Schimek’s tribute to Audrey Saunders: Japanese cherry green tea infused Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, Green Chartreuse and egg white. I’ve always enjoyed Schimek’s drinks, but in this case what looked good on chalk unfortunately didn’t quite sing in the glass. The distinctly floral Nolet’s was overpowered by the tea, and coupled with the Chartreuse made for an aftertaste that struck a funky chord.

Matcha Sour

My final cocktail was the Matcha Sour by Jason Bran, made with Old Overholt Rye, matcha tea syrup, lemon juice, egg white and “Hello Kitty” Angostura Bitters. Well-balanced and topped with Bran’s stencil of the iconic Japanese character, the Matcha Sour hit all the right notes and was a great way to close out the night.

And the hits keep on coming: B-Side bar manager Tricia Alley will be testing her drinks tonight, per this tweet from earlier today.

I'm behind stick @ B Side tonight! Gotta try the drinks I'll be serving Tom Leykis on Tasting Room tomorrow! Help!

April 13, 2011 9:11 am via Mobile WebReplyRetweetFavorite

@tricia_alley

tricia alley

B-Side at Rolling Stone
6801 Hollywood Blvd. (entrance on Highland)
Hollywood, CA 90028
(323) 464-4000
www.rollingstonela.com

Whiskey Delicious

BONUS TRACK: Rolling Stone LA
When I recently met with Chivas Regal’s Richard Varga in the bar at Rolling Stone LA, Assistant GM Colin Hobbs introduced himself and asked the bartender to make us a couple of cocktails. The drinks were created by Ryan Magarian, the ubiquitous beverage service consultant and Aviation Gin co-founder.

First was the Whiskey Delicious: hot house cucumber, farm fresh peppermint, Jameson Irish Whiskey and freshly squeezed lime juice. It’s certainly well-named, a bright and easygoing whiskey cocktail that will do very well when the temperature heats up. To underscore its appeal, a couple sat next to us at the bar and the young lady ordered two of them. She told the bartender she had tried the Whiskey Delicious the day before and dubbed it “orgasmic.” Her tough-looking biker guy looked skeptical, then took a sip. His look of pleasant surprise was one of those moments that bartenders must relish.

Campari Pineapple Rickey

Next was the Campari Pineapple Rickey, made with Belvedere Vodka, Campari, freshly squeezed juice, freshly extracted pineapple juice, and club soda. Another well-balanced, easily sipped drink that guests will order in bunches. Hobbs noted that the Rolling Stone cocktails are designed to be more mainstream and approachable than the craft cocktails being mixed downstairs at B-Side. This may be the case, but not many MOR drink menus feature something like the Kiwi Daisy (fresh kiwi, Aviation Gin, Green Chartreuse, freshly squeezed lemon juice, club soda) or a House Manhattan with Rittenhouse 100. Based on the two cocktails that Varga and I tried, the drinks at Rolling Stone LA (priced at $12) are much better than they need to be and many of them will appeal to even the most selective cocktail enthusiast.

Related posts:

1. Zahra Bates Guest Bartends at Test Kitchen, Next Up is Copa d’Oro
2. September 14: Cause on the Rocks at Viceroy Santa Monica
3. Black Market Liquor Bar Opens in Studio City

Nolet's Silver Dry Gin and tasting glass.

In the June 2010 issue of The Spirit Journal, F. Paul Pacult named Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin the Best Gin in the World, calling it “an instant classic” that “blew me away from the first sip,” and one of the rare gins that is “great on its own.” Of the Nolet’s Reserve, the Silver’s “even more incredible sister gin,” Pacult said it’s “one of the finest spirits I’ve ever tasted.” Quite an accolade, considering that by his own estimation Pacult has tasted over 20,000 spirits. Both expressions received Five Star / Highest Recommendation ratings from Pacult.

Though the Nolet family is best known for Ketel One Vodka (introduced by Carolus Nolet Sr. in 1983), their distilling tradition goes back over 300 years. The Nolets were previously famous for their gin, including the production of Ketel 1 Jenever for the Dutch market. The Nolet’s Silver and Reserve gins are distilled in copper pot stills and bottled at the Nolet Distillery in Schiedam, Holland. Founded in 1691, the distillery survived the French Revolution and two World Wars, and has been exporting spirits to the United States since the late 19th century.

Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin is a collaboration between the Nolet family’s 10th and 11th generations: Carl Nolet Sr. with his sons, Carl Jr. and Bob. Three distinctive botanicals – Turkish rose, white peach and raspberry – separate the Nolet’s Silver from the standard London Dry. Even with the recipe finalized, Nolet Sr.’s attention to detail meant the launch was delayed until he was satisfied with the bottle design. Nolet is marketing its Silver as a “modern take” on gin, ideal for the drinks of today’s craft cocktail bar. Marcos Tello says “the cocktailing possibilities are endless” for the Silver. Gin aficionados may wonder about dialing back the juniper in the Silver’s profile, a point raised in several conversations I’ve had since its release. At the latest meeting of the Sporting Life (hosted by Villains Tavern and sponsored by Nolet), opinions varied from enthusiastic raves to questions about the Silver’s utility as a cocktail spirit, given its upfront floral profile.

The Reserve is billed as “the world’s first limited edition sipping gin,” the culmination of four decades spent by Nolet Sr. to perfect the recipe. The Reserve retails for a whopping $699 for a 750ml bottle, a price that’s only slightly less jaw-dropping when you realize that one of the defining botanicals is saffron, the world’s most expensive spice. Also noteworthy is the use of verbena, revered since ancient times for its medicinal properties. After taking 40 years to create the Reserve, Nolet Sr. is likewise measured in its release, allocating it in very limited annual quantities in select markets.

I first encountered the Nolet’s Silver last October in Las Vegas, at a welcome dinner for the Harlem Shot Showcase. Though the Vegas event was focused on the Harlem liqueur, there was much discussion about the gin, which had launched in the U.S. a month earlier. In the fall, Nolet hosted tasting events with multi-course dinners, Nolet’s Silver cocktails and drams of the Reserve.

Juan Sevilla's Silver Pistol

In Los Angeles, Nolet dinners took place at First & Hope and Alcove. At the latter dinner, Bar Manager Juan Sevilla created four specialty cocktails that took advantage of the Silver’s floral, fruit-forward profile. For the passed apps at the start of the event, Sevilla created a Martini variation called the Silver Pistol: Nolet’s Silver, Martini Bianco and “a bit of spice.” The Silver Pistol was crisp and bright, with a nice kick that was offset by the Silver’s sweet and flowery notes. Later on, guests were served a salmon entree paired with the Chin Up: Nolet’s Silver, cucumber, dry vermouth and Cynar. Sevilla explained that the Cynar went with the salmon, while the muddled cucumber matched the dill sauce. The sweet and floral Nolet was nicely anchored by the amaro, with the gin’s inherent dryness enhanced by the vermouth.

Nolet's Reserve and petits fours, a match four decades in the making.

To cap off the dinner, a dram of the Nolet’s Reserve was accompanied by an assortment of petits fours. The saffron and verbena are upfront on the Reserve’s sweet and floral nose, while a creamy mouthfeel on the palate continues with spicy chocolate and citrus notes. The finish is long and velvety smooth, with a lingering heat from its 104.6 proof (52.3% ABV) bottling. With a bit of water, an entire bouquet of floral notes opens up while the heat is mellowed. The Reserve is a remarkable spirit, the realization of Nolet’s goal of creating a true sipping gin. With that price point, collectors that acquire a bottle may want to heed Nolet Sr.’s contention that the Reserve is “best enjoyed in quiet solitude.”

Our Nolet swag bags included a review bottle of the Silver and a nifty set of tasting glasses. (Alas, the Reserve wasn’t included.) The bottle references history throughout its design, from a shape that alludes to past bottles, to the Nolet family tree etched on its sides. The thick, heavy cap carries the Nolet family crest.

Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin

• 95.2 Proof (47.6% ABV)
• Retail price: $49.99 (750ml)

Tasting notes:

• Color: clear
• Nose: sweet and fragrant with rose, lavender, and fruit.
• Palate: warm with peach, raspberry, citrus and a hint of juniper.
• Finish: warm, long and velvety smooth, with continued sweet and floral notes.

The Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin is currently available in limited release in California, Florida, Illinois, Massachusetts, Nevada and New York.

For more information, visit noletsgin.com.

Nolet’s Silver Gin: Aviation

The Savoy Cocktail Book famously omitted crème de violette from its Aviation recipe. The purple, floral liqueur that gives the Aviation its signature sky blue tint (and thus the inspiration for its name) was unavailable in the U.S. for decades. For years, modern Aviations excluded this key ingredient, until the classic version could at last take flight with the 2007 release of Rothman & Winter’s crème de violette.

Nolet’s modern approach to the Silver Gin makes it a good fit for the Aviation recipe featured in Speakeasy: The Employees Only Guide to Classic Cocktails Reimagined. Throughout the book’s 90 recipes, authors (and Employees Only owners) Jason Kosmas and Dushan Zaric showcase their Manhattan bar’s interpretations of classic cocktails, re-imagined with modern techniques.

If you’re keeping track, Kosmas and Zaric’s take on the Aviation harkens back to the Savoy version by dropping the crème de violette. Swapping the Plymouth called for in Speakeasy with the Nolet’s Silver Gin brings back the floral element. The dominant sour from the lemon juice is offset by the simple, the maraschino liqueur and the Nolet’s own sweetness and fruit notes.

AVIATION
Adapted from “Speakeasy”
Ingredients:

• 1½ oz. Nolet’s Silver Gin
• 1 oz. fresh lemon juice
• ¼ oz. Luxardo maraschino liqueur
• ¼ oz. simple syrup
• 1 dash Angostura bitters
• 1 lemon wheel
• 1 brandied cherry

Preparation:

• Combine the gin, lemon juice, liqueur and simple syrup in a mixing glass filled with ice and shake well.
• Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
• Add the bitters and garnish with the lemon wheel and the cherry.

Related posts:

1. Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin – Garden to Cocktail Program (Part 1)
2. Cocktails Go Dutch with Bols Genever
3. Thirsty in Las Vegas: Hit Me with Your Best HARLEM Shot

Joining me for the imbibing and dining was Laren of Sweet Blog o’ Mine, who was making her first visit to L.A. After a seemingly endless walk from the parking structure we arrived at Union Station’s beautiful Grand Ticket Concourse, a soaring space that’s normally closed off to the public. Despite the size of the room, a stifling heat lingered throughout the party. The sharply-dressed crowd handled it in stride and kept the bartenders and chefs busy right up to the end.

Cruzan Rum Ace of Spades

Our first stop was the Caña Rum Bar station, where GM Allan Katz, bartender Danielle Crouch and Celebrity Barback Ron Dollete (Lush Angeles) were serving up the Cruzan Rum Ace of Spades, featuring Cruzan 9 Spiced Rum and cacao-infused bitters. Easily my favorite cocktail of the night, a wonderful blend of flavors highlighted by vanilla and chocolate notes.

A sizable dance floor was created for guests to groove to DJ Garth Trinidad (KCRW), but with the heat it took a while before guests felt the need to get down. I think a period band would have made more sense for a “speakeasy” party, but maybe that’s just me. Though I appreciated the spacious event layout, we definitely could have used more two tops. With available tables at a premium, guests had to be a little creative with how they enjoyed their food and drink.

Mmm...Pikesville Classic Manhattan...

Luckily we found the Cool Kids Table, where e*star LA, L.A. & O.C. Foodventures and others were tasting the offerings, comparing notes and offering suggestions. Better yet, they had commandeered a table right by Cole’s Red Car Bar, which was stirring up the Pikesville Classic Manhattan: Pikesville Rye, Dolin Sweet Vermouth, Angostura bitters and a Luxardo maraschino cherry. I loves me a Manhattan, especially with rye and particularly when the spicy and sweet notes are so well-balanced.

Guests snapped up the Plymouth Fitzgeralds as soon as Chris Bostick made them.

Cole’s was naturally set up back-to-back with The Varnish, where Eric Alperin and Chris Bostick were mixing the Plymouth Fitzgerald, a classic gin sour made with Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon juice and sugar, shaken and served up and with a drizzle of Angostura bitters. The bright, tart cocktails were quickly grabbed by thirsty guests as soon as they were mixed.

Rustic Canyon: black mission figs, roasted chestnuts, burrata, saba and toast.

Nearby, Rustic Canyon and Providence were set up next to each other, with very different, delectable tastings. First up was Rustic Canyon, with its healthy-sized serving of black mission figs, roasted chestnuts, burrata, saba and toast.

Providence: hamachi with nuoc cham and beef tendon.

Providence’s hamachi with nuoc cham and beef tendon was subtle and refined, a nice contrast to the hearty Rustic Canyon dish. Not so successful was First & Hope, whose butternut panna cotta was topped with a crab salad so oversalted I couldn’t finish it. Thankfully Neal Fraser (Grace) came to our rescue by serving us his melt-in-your-mouth braised pork and squash flan, with a smoked sage jus. Next to Grace was Lazy Ox Canteen and its bite-sized yellowtail crudo tacos with avocado, crème fraiche and white soy. I also tried Jar’s pork croissant with mustard sauce, but it had a tough act to follow after Grace and Lazy Ox.

Jonathan Gold

Then it was time for a few words from Jonathan Gold, who thanked everyone and encouraged the continued support of Zócalo.

(L to R) Zócalo founder Gregory Rodriguez and his staff: Laura Villalpando, Swati Pandey and Dulce Vasquez.

Gold introduced Zócalo founder Gregory Rodriguez and his staff: Laura Villalpando, Swati Pandey and Dulce Vasquez. By this time the energy (read: booze) had kicked in and the dance floor began to fill.

Rivera's Gazpacho Blanco

But there were still a few more stops to make and tastes to try, starting with Rivera’s Gazpacho Blanco, a shot of pre-Columbian white gazpacho that went down so nicely I had to grab another one to go.

Spiced PaQui Tequila Daisy

A few steps away was Las Perlas, continuing the Latin theme with a Spiced PaQui Tequila Daisy: PaQui Silver Tequila, fresh lime juice, organic agave nectar, fresh juiced jalapenos, basil, and cucumber. The bartender asked us how spicy we wanted them, and she wasn’t messing around when we asked for them to be hot, just how we like ‘em. Seven Grand was serving a selection of Chivas Regal 12-Year Scotch Highballs, but we passed.

Then it was back to where we began the night, and one last Ace of Spades. With the party winding down, we were all dressed up with nowhere to go. A trip to the real Varnish seemed to be in order, and despite being exhausted from jet lag, Laren was a trouper and we headed out into the night.

Related posts:

1. October 9: Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
2. October 10: Jonathan Gold's Union Station Cocktail Party
3. Oliver Jones Named Winner of the 2010 Jimmy Barela Award

Just two weeks after the inaugural L.A. Craft Beer Crawl, Jonathan Gold and 213 are teaming up once again for the second annual Union Station Speakeasy Cocktail Party, taking place this Saturday, October 9 in the station’s historic Grand Concourse. The celebration of downtown L.A.’s “speakeasy style” will feature craft cocktails by 213, gourmet bites from some of L.A.’s best restaurants, and beats by Garth Trinidad (KCRW).

Proceeds benefit Zócalo Public Square, a Los Angeles-based nonprofit that provides a nonpartisan forum to prominent thinkers and doers via lectures, panels, salons, screenings, webzine and annual conferences.

Specialty cocktails will include the Varnish’s Plymouth Fitzgerald, a gin sour made with Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon juice and sugar, shaken and served up with a drizzle of Angostura bitters. Not to be outdone is Caña, with a spiced rum daiquiri called the Ace of Spades, a tribute to the Ace of Clubs’ namesake cocktail.

For more information and to purchase tickets online, visit www.zocalopublicsquare.org.

Jonathan Gold’s Union Station Cocktail Party
Saturday, October 9, 2010
7pm-11pm

Featuring:

• Cocktails by 213 – Caña, Cole’s, Las Perlas, Seven Grand, The Varnish
• Gourmet bites by Comme Ça, First & Hope, Grace, Jar, Lazy Ox, Providence, Rivera, Rustic Canyon, Street
• DJ Garth Trinidad (KCRW)

TIckets:

• $185 per person
• Non-Profit Employee Rate: $150
• Young Professionals’ Rate (under 30 years old): $125
• Corporate Packages available
• Proceeds benefit Zócalo Public Square

Union Station
Grand Concourse
800 N. Alameda St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Related posts:

1. A Hot Time at Jonathan Gold’s Second Annual Union Station Cocktail Party
2. October 10: Jonathan Gold's Union Station Cocktail Party
3. June 27-28: The Pátron Tequila Epicurean Express Arrives in LA

Follow that car! | Photo: Rich Kim, courtesy of C.C.

It’s already Don Draper’s whisky of choice on the Emmy Award-winning Mad Men. Now, Canadian Club is poised to have its coolness factor elevated even higher with the debut of Boardwalk Empire, a Prohibition-era series from Executive Producers Terence Winter (writer/creator) and Martin Scorsese (the pilot episode’s director). The HBO crime drama takes place in Atlantic City and centers on Enoch “Nucky” Thompson (played by Steve Buscemi), the County Treasurer described as “a political fixer and backroom dealer who is equal parts politician and gangster and equally comfortable in either role.”

To celebrate the September 19th premiere of the highly-anticipated series, Canadian Club hosted a speakeasy event last week at R Bar, complete with an antique car, password entry, and a “mug shot” photo station inside. Canadian Club was of course the featured spirit in a Boardwalk Empire-themed cocktail menu:

• The Nucky – C.C. 12-year, grapefruit juice, tonic water, grenadine
• The High Roller – C.C. 12-year, ginger ale, lime juice, lime wedge garnish
• The Boardwalk Boss – C.C. 12-year, sweet vermouth, Laird applejack or calvados, lemon peel garnish
• AC Fizz – C.C., orange juice, champagne, optional cherry garnish

I started with the tasty Boardwalk Boss and chatted with LA Cocktails Examiner Aaron Vanek and his lovely wife Kirsten, who looked like they stepped right out of Central Casting in their vintage outfits. Check out Aaron’s mug shot in his Examiner recap, he definitely looks the part!

Kirsten and Aaron, speaking easy and looking sharp!

We then had the pleasure of sitting with Tish Harcus, the delightful Canadian Club brand ambassador who took us through a tasting of 6, 10 and 12-year Canadian Club. Along the way we learned about the origins of the terms “bootlegging” and “The Real McCoy.” With its distillery located at the U.S.-Canada border on the Detroit River, Canadian Club would become the leading U.S. whisky supplier during Prohibition. Harcus told us that thousands of cases of C.C. were smuggled across the river every week. One of Canadian Club’s biggest “customers” was Al Capone, portrayed in Boardwalk Empire by Stephen Graham.

Brand Ambassador Tish Harcus holds a vintage Canadian Club bottle from the 1920s.

Harcus had some vintage bottles on display at the table, and even decades later the 1920s bottle still had a nose to it. Harcus had to interrupt our session briefly, when she said a few words to the crowd after the Boardwalk Empire trailer was shown to rousing applause. We eyed the bottles of whisky before us but exercised remarkable restraint in leaving them untouched.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5BwpLL7gxU

As seen in the Boardwalk Empire trailer, Nucky celebrates the dawn of Prohibition and toasts Congress with his cohorts: “To those beautiful ignorant bastards!” Naturally this would be the recurring toast throughout the R Bar event. While Harcus took time to extol the virtues of C.C., she was just as excited to talk about Boardwalk Empire, which she said has generated more buzz at C.C. than anything in her 23 years with the brand.

Naomi Schimek mixes her R Password, the best drink of the night.

Our C.C. tasting session over, it was back to the bar for a few rounds of the best drink of the night, an exclusive cocktail created by Naomi Schimek called the R Password: Apple Amaretto Syrup, fresh lemon juice, Canadian Club Whisky, garnished with a housemade candied lemon peel. Even after the event officially ended, bartenders continued to sling R Passwords to the remaining guests. It’s no secret, Schimek had a winner on her hands. And if Boardwalk Empire can deliver on the promise of its outstanding trailers, HBO does as well.

Boardwalk Empire debuts Sunday, September 19 at 9pm on HBO.

• Visit the official Boardwalk Empire website: hbo.com/boardwalk-empire
• Boardwalk Empire on Facebook: facebook.com/boardwalkempire

For more information on Canadian Club, visit canadianclubwhisky.com.

Boardwalk Empire: Hooch Hook Up
What better way to celebrate the debut of a Prohibition-era crime drama than with a free cocktail? Click here to register for password info and get the skinny on your hooch hook-up at these participating speakeasies:

• The Varnish, 118 W. 6th St.
• The Edison, 108 W. 2nd St. #101
• R Bar, 3331 W. 8th St.

Note: The Hooch Hook Up is for guests 21 and over only. One complimentary drink per person.

And if you want to enjoy a themed cocktail (or two) while you watch Boardwalk Empire, Canadian Club sent along the simple recipe for the High Roller. Break out the fedoras and flapper dresses, and don’t forget the password!

THE HIGH ROLLER
In a rocks glass filled with ice add:

• 1 part Canadian Club Classic 12 Whisky
• 2 parts Ginger Ale
• Add a squeeze of lime
• Garnish with lime wedge

Related posts:

1. Canadian Club Reserve and Classic: Award-Winning Whiskies from the City of Roses
2. Canadian Club Resurrects Hide A Case Global Treasure Hunt
3. May 30: Speaking Easy on the Miracle Mile

Shhh...it's a Speakeasy. | Photo: Drink:Eat:Play

On Saturday, August 21, Drink:Eat:Play (International Wine Festival, LA Beer Festival, LA BBQ Festival) presents the latest edition of Speakeasy, a Roaring 20s-themed evening of drink, music, and more drink taking place at The Music Box @ Fonda in Hollywood. The all-inclusive $40 ticket includes unlimited samples of over 100 spirits brands, as well as cocktails from top mixologists such as Matt Biancaniello (Library Bar), John Coltharp (Caña), Aidan Demarest (Tello Demarest Liquid Assets), Brian MacGregor (Jardinière, SF), Todd Richman (Frederick Wildman and Sons) and Eric Tecosky (Jones Hollywood).

A partial list of the brands that will be poured:

• Aperol
• Bowmore
• Bruichladdich
• Buffalo Trace
• Chartreuse
• Damrak
• Del Maguey
• Delamain
• Frapin
• Glenrothes
• High West
• Jefferson’s Reserve
• Michter’s
• Mount Gay
• Remy Cointreau
• Springbank
• Tuthilltown
• Van Winkle
• Woodford Reserve

Drink:Eat:Play does ask guests to get in the spirit of things: “We’re running a classy establishment here, so please dress accordingly.” In other words, a dress code will be enforced.

For more information, visit drinkeatplay.com/speakeasy.

Photo: Drink:Eat:Play

Speakeasy
Saturday, August 21, 2010
7pm-10:30pm
$40 General Admission
Purchase tickets online at Eventbrite.
Featuring:

• Unlimited samples of 100+ spirits
• Cocktails by Matt Biancaniello, Aidan Demarest, Brian MacGregor, Todd Richman, Eric Tecosky and more
• Music by Big Lucky 20s Orchestra

The Music Box @ Fonda
6126 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood, CA 90028
(323) 464-0808

Related posts:

1. The Wayback Machine: Speakeasy Sundays at Hotel Shangri-La
2. The Wayback Machine: Cicada Club at the Oviatt
3. The Wayback Machine: ERA at Campanile

Jim Meehan, PDT Managing Partner.

Sixth in a series recapping the 2010 Manhattan Cocktail Classic.

It would be impossible to top Day Three of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic, an incredible Sunday that started with The Magic of Mezcal and ended with The Three Hour Tour. Day Four of MCC would thankfully be relatively low-key and I could put my liver on cruise control. To help alleviate the cumulative effects of the last few days of imbibing, I had a quick, restorative meal at Kambi Ramen before taking a short walk to St. Mark’s Place.

With a limit of just nine attendees, Stories from Behind the Bar: PDT was one of the first seminars to sell out almost immediately after online tickets went on sale. Since its opening in 2007, Please Don’t Tell (PDT) has garnered acclaim for its classically-inspired seasonal cocktails: at the Tales of the Cocktail 2009 Spirited Awards, PDT was named World’s Best Cocktail Bar and Managing Partner Jim Meehan was named American Bartender of the Year.

Along with the praise came some criticism as well, such as an infamous New York Post article that called out PDT for its house rules and neo-speakeasy idiosyncrasies. Besides its world class cocktails, PDT is perhaps best known for its hidden entrance within Crif Dogs, which is easily located thanks to its cheeky “eat me” hot dog sign. PDT regulars know the routine well: step down into Crif Dogs from St. Mark’s, enter the vintage phone booth on the left, and close the door. Pick up the phone and press the buzzer, a steel door opens, and if you have a reservation or if there’s space at the bar, the hostess lets you into PDT. Reservations are taken same-day only, and can be made starting at 3pm. Bar seating is first-come, first-served.

There’s no standing in PDT, so if the bar is full, hopeful patrons have to wait next door for someone to leave. I got a taste of this experience as I pulled up a stool inside Crif Dogs before the start of the seminar. By happy coincidence I was joined by Rivera mixologist Julian Cox and Kristina Howald (La Descarga). We hadn’t planned on meeting up at PDT, but it was great to attend the two-hour session with a couple of L.A. friends. The steel door opened soon enough, and we were invited to seat ourselves at the bar.

Even though it was my first time at PDT, there was a sense of familiarity to the dimly-lit, rustic interior with a subtly modern sheen: taxidermy on the brick walls; low wooden ceiling; cozy banquettes. Whether it can be found in other Manhattan bars or in New York-influenced progeny like The Varnish, the PDT look is comfortable, simultaneously classic and of-the-moment.

Fellow attendees look over the PDT cocktail menu.

Once everyone was settled in, we were greeted by Meehan and bartender Sean Hoard, who as a member of Team USA (along with Denver’s Mark Stoddard and Todd Thrasher from Washington, D.C.) recently took home first prize in the sixth annual 42BELOW Cocktail World Cup. Meehan and Hoard presented us with daiquiris in chilled coupes, which paired nicely with the welcome tater tots that were served with diced jalapeños and cheese sauce. Unfortunately since I’d already eaten, I didn’t have any room for the Crif Dogs that were included with the MCC ticket. My fellow attendees placed their orders, and after a buzzer rang, their food was passed through a small metal door from the Crif Dogs kitchen and into the bar. Some of the hot dogs offered at PDT are different from the Crif’s menu, and looking back I really should have tried the Chang Dog, created by acclaimed chef David Chang: a deep-fried, bacon-wrapped hot dog topped with Momofuku Ssäm Bar kimchi purée.

Mmm...daiquiri...

While we sipped and nibbled, Meehan presented the PDT story, beginning in 2007 when he was a bartender at Gramercy Tavern and Pegu Club. He’d been working at both places since 2005, when the modern cocktail renaissance was starting to gain momentum. Crif’s co-owner Chris Antista, one of Meehan’s regulars from the first bar he worked at in New York, brought Meehan on board to consult on a bar he was opening with his Crif Dogs partner, Brian Shebairo.

In addition to hiring staff and helping to design the bar, Meehan created an opening menu of twelve drinks, featuring lesser known classics (e.g. the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club Cocktail) and a few originals. He kept his approach straightforward: “I wanted to open a place I wanted to drink in.” With fifteen bars on St. Mark’s Place it can be “mayhem in the evening,” so Meehan wanted PDT to be “a nice neighborhood bar” that would also become a destination bar.

PDT opened in May 2007, at a time when there wasn’t a deep talent pool of craft cocktail bartenders. Meehan said he was very fortunate to have John Deragon and Don Lee (PDT’s opening Beverage Director) as part of his team. Both men came from IT backgrounds and were instrumental in helping to get PDT up and running. Noting the difficulties in obtaining a liquor license and the hoops that prospective owners have to jump through, Meehan shook his head and said, “My heart goes out to anyone opening a bar in New York today…it’s just not fair.”

The aforementioned New York Post article came out shortly after PDT opened, but Meehan said that “people bought into the program from the beginning.” The PDT crew took the critique in stride, even naming one of the specialty hot dogs The Speakcheesy, a “Crif Dog topped with jalapeño cheese whiz: shhh!” Media coverage beyond the Post broadside would follow, and three years on, table reservations continue to sell out before sundown.

Meehan said that PDT takes the cocktail experience out of the public house and into a “rarefied space,” akin to “a restaurant for cocktails.” With that in mind, if you’re late for your PDT reservation you’ll lose your table, which surprises those who don’t feel the need to be all that punctual for a bar. He compared the assumed rights of a fine dining customer to what PDT has stated explicitly in its rules, which may seem obvious in another context, but stand out at PDT by elevating it from the boisterous environment of the average bar.

There’s a “no standing” rule because PDT is a small bar and if people crowd over each other, it interferes with the guest experience. The PDT rules of etiquette (starting with the “Golden Rule”) are posted in the restroom. One of the most-quoted rules is “No PDA at PDT: hands on table, tongue inside your mouth.” Another warns patrons to leave the women alone, because PDT is not a pick-up joint. Other rules include no laptops, no games (cards), and no yelling or cursing. (At this rule, Meehan broke into an imitation of “The Clapper,” his term for an obnoxious patron who guffaws and constantly slams his hands on the bar.)

There will always be those who think such house rules are pretentious. Personally, I’ll take a quiet drink at PDT any day over a bar packed with drunken rookies leaning on me and yelling for another vodka and Red Bull. I’ve been that guy too, but these days I appreciate it when a bar or restaurant seeks to provide the best possible customer experience, as opposed to quantity over quality. If carefully executed cocktails, polite behavior and table reservations aren’t your thing, there are a dozen bars on St. Mark’s Place ready for your business.

East Indian Negroni

Within its first year, PDT expanded from 12 drinks to an 18-drink menu that now changes seasonally. Whether he’s creating or enjoying a cocktail, Meehan said he looks for balance and “return sips,” and sours are his cocktail family of choice. All cocktails are priced at $14 on the PDT menu, which is written like a wine menu; the drink is created first, then the name and the story follow. Meehan feels that three drinks per guest over the course of a visit is the ideal “little journey,” highlighting different spirits and flavor profiles. Our own MCC journey continued when we were served the East Indian Negroni, a delicious rum-based take on the Italian classic.

EAST INDIAN NEGRONI
Created by Jim Meehan
Ingredients:

• 2 oz. Banks 5-Island Rum
• 1 oz. Campari
• 1 oz. Lustau East India Sherry

Preparation:

• Add all the ingredients to a mixing glass, then add ice.
• Stir and strain into a chilled rocks glass filled one large cube.

Of course, everyone at the seminar wanted to know how PDT’s “secret” entrance came to be. Brian Shebairo had acquired a liquor license for Crif Dogs six years ago, but not much had been done with it when Meehan was brought on board: “There was a bottle of Jäger in the ice box,” and that was about it. The Crif Dogs partners assumed the lease from a failing business next door and essentially cut a hole in the wall to create a two-room venue. So the liquor license is for 113 St. Marks Place, and PDT is the bar for the entire space. And why a phone booth? Meehan demurred, saying only that the design choice was likely the result of some late night brainstorming.

Julian Cox steps behind the bar to make a Flying Dutchman.

Meehan then opened up the session to the group, taking questions and even inviting us to step behind the bar and make a drink from the PDT menu, with recipe portions and assistance from Hoard if needed. Julian took his turn and made a Flying Dutchman: Bols Genever, Clear Creek Plum Brandy, lemon and pineapple juice, crème yvette and maraschino liqueur. Other guests made the Cuzco (BarSol Quebranta Pisco, Aperol, lemon and grapefruit juice, Clear Creek Kirschwasser) and the Mariner (Compass Box Oak Cross, pineapple and lemon juice, smoked cardamom simple syrup).

A modern classic: the Benton's Old Fashioned, created by Don Lee.

The seminar ended on a high note with a modern classic, the Benton’s Old Fashioned: bacon-infused Four Rose Bourbon, Grade B maple syrup and Angostura bitters. Created by Don Lee, it’s a remarkable creation that balances smoky and sweet notes with a wonderful bacon finish.

Though it took place at a bar known for its exacting craft and attention to detail, the PDT seminar was relaxed, informal and enlightening, as enjoyable a session as I could ask for on my penultimate day in Manhattan. My liver would only earn a brief respite, though; later that night was The Dizzy Fizz Tastemaker’s Punch, and a farewell night on the town still lay ahead on Tuesday.

PDT
113 St. Marks Place
New York, NY 10009
(212) 614-0386
www.pdtnyc.com

Related posts:

1. Stories from Behind the Bar: Clover Club
2. LA in NY: The City of Angels at the 2011 Manhattan Cocktail Classic
3. Death and Pain on World Cocktail Day 2010

The music and cocktails portion of the event will take place at the El Rey, when Muse presents its ArtWalk 2009 After Party featuring Vaud & the Villains. As Muse describes them, Vaud & the Villains is “an eighteen-piece band with sexy, sultry dancers playing New Orleans-backroom-slow-drag-high-energy-boogie-woogie-barrelhouse blues.” They play Wednesdays at the Edison, in case you were wondering why the name sounds familiar. Muse promises to “transform the El Rey into a Prohibition-era speakeasy for a night of fantastic music and complimentary drinks provided by Grolsch, Malibu Family Wines, and Pernod.”

So, to recap: free drinks, speakeasy, NOLA-style bluesy grooves, and sexy dancers. Who’s in?

Visit the official ArtWalk 2009 site

ArtWalk 2009
Saturday, May 30
12-8 pm
Miracle Mile
Four free museums, twenty participating galleries

ArtWalk 2009 After Party
Featuring Vaud & the Villains, with Stagecoach Looters
Saturday, May 30
Doors: 8:30 pm
El Rey Theater
5515 Wilshire Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Limited General Admission tickets are $25 for Muse members, $40 for non-Muse members.

VIP tickets, with reserved table seating and waitress service, are $50 for Muse members and $75 for non-Muse members.

To purchase general admission tickets, click here, call 323 857-6010, or visit LACMA’s box office. To purchase VIP tickets, call 323 932-5861.

Related posts:

1. Speaking Easy at R Bar with Canadian Club and Boardwalk Empire